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Hiking with USFS Maps Only

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Nick Gatel BPL Member
PostedNov 5, 2014 at 8:59 pm

In the thread about Luke Schmidt’s: Bob Wilderness trip, Luke asked me this question,

“Nick I’m glad you enjoyed it. Your comment makes me think FS maps used to be the standard. Is that what it was like in your younger days?”

So I thought I would start a thread and not hijack the original. Some of what I am about to share was over 40 years ago and my memory maybe a little cloudy, but it is pretty much what I did. I am sure some folks can add to this and maybe point out errors in my recollections.

In 1971 I got out of the military and decided to head into the Sierra for about 6 months. Really didn’t have a specific plan. In the service I was trained on the use of topo maps and lensatic compass, so I was expert at using them. But USGS topo maps were hard to come by. For the most part, you needed to mail order them from the USGS and the wait was several weeks. Plus they were expensive.

So I had to rely on USFS and NPS maps, as did most backpackers. I had never heard of a trail guide and that genre was probably rare. If my memory serves me right, the USFS and NPS maps were free at ranger stations.

I suspect, from what I have read in recent years, that back during this time local hiking clubs and maybe local Sierra Club groups may have more detailed maps for their members, but I have no experience with that.

You might also find it interesting that prior to 1973 road maps were also free at gas stations, but that changed in 1973 with the gas shortage (along with gas stations discontinuing trading stamps from S&H Green and Blue Chip – another history story that many of you may never heard of).

Also back then, backcountry rangers were really knowledgeable and helpful (today they seem more like auditors and policemen). When you ran into a ranger they could help with routes, suggest great hikes, and generally were awesome and knowledgeable people.

So on this trip, as I moved from unit to unit, when I went into a town for supplies I would get a map of the new section as needed. Also backcountry ranger stations usually had maps.

My trip started when I hitchhiked to the little town of Kernville in the Southern Sierra and waited for the snow in the high Sierra to melt. My wait actually was a hike up the lower Kern Canyon to Tobias Creek, a hike up out of Tobias and then a walk to the Greenhorn Mountains. After this I planned to hike back down towards my next stage, which was the Dome Land Wilderness and the Golden Trout Wilderness.

From the Greenhorn Mountains I hiked back down near Tobias Creek, up the Kern passing the small stores at Fairview (still in operation) and Roads End (no longer there & not the one in Kings Canyon) up to the one-way bridge (still there but closed to traffic) below Johnsondale. I continued the hike up the Kern Canyon, pulled myself across the surging Kern River in a hand trolley somewhere around Durwood Camp, hiked up Lower Peppermint Creek to Lloyd Meadows that included wandering around the Dome Land Wilderness and Golden Trout Wilderness. I did have to re-supply a couple times at the lumber mill store at Johnsondale and at Quaking Aspen. Eventually I walked up through Tunnel Meadows and got close to Mt Whitney.

In those days you didn’t need a permit to hike Whitney, or along the John Muir Trail, or anywhere for that matter. Before summiting Whitney, I had to go down into Lone Pine for supplies and, if I remember correctly, get a map. After summiting Mt. Whitney, I decided to hike the JMT to Yosemite. I had never heard of the JMT, but there it was on my new map. I got to Tuolumne Meadows and on my way down to Yosemite was put off by all the crowds of people. So I turned around and hiked back to Kernville; taking different trails whenever possible. Often I would hike cross-country to get from one trail to another.

The thing to keep in perspective, I suppose, is this what backpackers did. No one told us it was dangerous or there was a better way. The maps were fine, not as good as a topo, but manageable. Also, it was not unusual for backpackers to go 14 days or more between supplies.

On this adventure I made big re-supply trips down to Lone Pine, Bishop, Mammoth, and Lee Vining. Also made many shorter trips to small towns along the way.

I did a similar 6 month trip the following year in 1972.

Sometime in the 70’s REI built a store in Torrance, CA that had a selection of USGS topo maps, but I was pretty selective of what I bought – cost was an important consideration – so I would just buy maps that were a filler for areas on a USFS or NPS map I needed more detail. When I moved to desert in the 70’s I found a map store in Palm Desert, CA that had a pretty complete inventory of USGS maps for most of the southern desert areas, plus they would order anything you needed from many sources other than USGS. They are still in business and I buy a lot of topo maps there now. In the 80’s I got to the point where I could afford any topo map I needed, plus my desert trips had gotten to the point where I really needed that kind of detail. Then of course we entered the computer age.

Another thing to keep in mind is back then, as a society, we were less pressed for time and less risk adverse. We didn’t have seat belts, bike helmets, you only went to a doctor when you broke a bone or were deathly ill, and aspirin fixed everything else. When I was in high school I would head to the Sierra and tell my parents I would be back in a week or two. They didn’t even really know where the Sierra was and would simply tell me to have fun and be careful. We didn’t have a phone, so there was no way to call them or update them, and it didn’t seem necessary. Today we need to absolutely get back by a certain time or a whole chain of domino effect events create a multitude of problems, and taking a spur of the moment extra couple of days is unacceptable. For me I would just take off to a new place with almost no advance planning and just figure things out along the way. This is what people did. My son, who is in his mid-twenties, is on his own. When he tells me his is going on a trip, I say, “Have fun and be careful.” just as my parents did.

Shane S. BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2014 at 3:31 pm

Excellent commentary Nick. I enjoy the skillful way you put into words what many of us ponder and mull over. I also really dug your article on your web-site "Technology Might Be Killing The Wilderness" it was spot on.

Luke Schmidt BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2014 at 4:00 pm

Very interesting history Nick. I think a key difference now is time. On our particular trip we were mostly worried about getting back in time so Morgan could catch his flight. We were concerned we'd be hungry too but that was because we couldn't afford to be late getting back so we'd brought just enough food.

At any rate after that trip I went into the Teton Wilderness for some off trail hiking with another basic map. This time it was a FS map with basic contour lines but it was still not very detailed compared to what most people use. If I hadn't had the experience in the Bob I probably would have spent a ton of money on USGS maps. Instead I took the FS map and had no problems.

Bob Gross BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2014 at 4:27 pm

I was also in the military during 1970-1971, and I was Infantry trained in the same map stuff, but we used the MGRS map grid, and it has its own tricks. Nick and I may have fought on the same side.

Since I worked in communications on the DMZ in Korea, we had a very large map tacked up on the wall of the operations room. If any incident happened, we knew where to pick coordinates off the map. One day, some user transmitted on my radio frequency and described the enemy and coordinates, except that the grid was nowhere near me. I looked up the grid reference, and it was in Vietnam! The radio "skip" was coming in, and the radio range should have been twenty miles turned out to be thousands of miles.

Fortunately, upon moving to California, I was located fairly near the USGS map store in Menlo Park. If I couldn't find the right USGS topo map at an REI store, I could always get one in Menlo Park.

Ahhh, you young kids these days. Your idea of land navigation is to follow the big arrow that shows on your smart phone.

—B.G.—

Luke Schmidt BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2014 at 5:17 pm

"Ahhh, you young kids these days. Your idea of land navigation is to follow the big arrow that shows on your smart phone."

Haha I know Bob, but actually I am one "young kid" who doesn't have a smart phone. Last year I still had an old flip phone with push buttons. A 13 year old kid needed to call his dad so I handed him my phone to use. He looked at it and said "How do you use this?" He didn't know how to dial!

Bob Gross BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2014 at 5:21 pm

"He didn't know how to dial!"

He would be in bad shape to make a call from a phone in my home. It has a rotary dial.

–B.G.–

Luke Schmidt BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2014 at 6:01 pm

Haha Bob, I may be the young whipper snapper but I do remember those phones, I think we had one till I was 8 or 9 actually. We even had a black and white TV when I was a pre-schooler (my dad was a garage sale master when we were poor).
I convinced a 3rd grader that back in the old days the world was black and white. Then I told him the principal remembered those days. So my poor principal is doing lunch duty and a little guy comes up and says "Mr. Portillo, was the world black and white when you were a little kid?"

Back to maps and such I enjoy Nick's post because I like old school skills too. I'm much more impressed with someone who can take basic gear and us it well then someone who blew $10,000 on gear he barely knows how to use.

Bob Gross BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2014 at 6:08 pm

"someone who blew $10,000 on gear"

Yes, but all that gear still requires rechargeable batteries now.

–B.G.–

Nick Gatel BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2014 at 8:18 pm

"Back to maps and such I enjoy Nick's post because I like old school skills too."

Ah, but navigation shouldn't be an old school tool. We often talk about a map and compass being critical, even if it is just used as a backup to a GPS or smart phone. Of course, back-up gear is supposed to be unnecessary to the UL hiker, right? And "real" navigation requires a real compass, right?

Bob and I probably got more map and compass training (for free!) than most hikers. However those skills, at least for me, get rusty if we don't use them often enough. I found this out a few years ago when I really needed some serious map and compass work. Oh, I knew about where I was, and knew that if I just headed west, I would eventually get back to my car, but I needed to find my water source. Heading back to my car wasn't possible without water. That wasn't a good day. I had good topo maps, a maze of canyons, and a base plate compass that I wasn't that familiar with. I eventually found water, but that required a bit of luck and a couple educated guesses — not good attributes for a hiker.

So I went back to a compass I know and trust (lensatic), did several trips requiring a lot of map & compass work to get my skills back to where they needed to be. For years I had been fine with just maps, compass not really needed; but when I really needed the compass, I was rusty.

i think these are good conversations to have.

Bob Gross BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2014 at 8:48 pm

I still remember the night escape and evasion course at Fort Polk. We had trained all day, and then just at sunset, they scattered us out along one side of a wooded rectangle, and we were expected to escape to the other end of the rectangle, maybe 4-5 miles. All we were supposed to be carrying was an unloaded M16, a vinyl poncho, a compass, and one canteen of water. Just as we started, we grouped into fours to go on our way. As soon as I got into the woods and it was dark, I put my poncho over my head as a light shield. Underneath it, I had hidden a topo map in my shirt, and I had a 2-AA penlight. I lit up the light, studied the map, picked off the right compass bearing, and off we went into the night. Moving on the bearing, we escaped the training aggressors and made it out to the finish line after midnight. To our amazement, we were some of the first ones to finish. Others were still stumbling out of the woods at breakfast time.

MGRS is a good map coordinate system, but only if you are in the military.

Nick, we were on the same side, weren't we?

–B.G.–

Nick Gatel BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2014 at 9:32 pm

Yes Bob, were were on the same side.

My E&E was in Saylor Park in the Rockies. One week. We had to travel at night, sleep and hide during the day when the aggressors were out looking for us. Since we had just done a week of resistance training in a mock POW camp, the last thing I wanted was to get captured.

Since it was a week, the area we needed to travel (point A to B) was quite large. The map had boundaries marked off and we were told not to cross into them because it was dangerous terrain. I noticed that the map must have been re-worked because there were some missing peaks beyond the marked boundaries, which would have been convenient for triangulation. So I decided the best place to head right away was into the forbidden zone — just made sense, the area was too big for the aggressors to patrol, and the boundaries must have been established to keep us corralled for easy capture. No one wanted to go with me, so I went solo. And I was right… no aggressors in the forbidden zone. Then on the 2nd or 3rd day, I figured that the aggressors must have a camp somewhere with a mess kitchen, and of course it would be empty during the day. I was right.

At the end of the week they weighed us and checked us to make sure we were healthy. They were quite confused about me, since I only lost a pound or two :)

Oh, and I didn't get captured. Even had time to fish during the day with tackle I made. For me it was a nice vacation.

All's fair in love and war, right?

Bob Gross BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2014 at 9:38 pm

"All's fair in love and war, right?"

Back then, the phrase was Make Love, Not War.

I'll bet we could have a good time if we crept into Twentynine Palms or Fort Irwin with the right map.

–B.G.–

Roger Caffin BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2014 at 9:41 pm

Ah, Nick – that's how most walkers in Australia navigate today: map and compass. We still sneer at tourists who go around with their nose glued to a smartphone or GPS. If nothing else, they are likely to fall over an unmarked cliff line.

When Sue and I go exploring in Wollemi NP, we usually tell one of our kids roughly where we are going and when we should be home by X. But in Wollemi … a group of contours a reasonable distance apart, like down a gentle spur, might conceal a 60' cliff. The watersheds are usually reasonable on the map, but the contours … You get used to it after a while, and it's all good fun.

Um – if we were to have an accident there, it could be a few weeks before we might be found. Aerial spotting doesn't work in that forest/jungle. Too bad.

We had an unfortunate S&R not too long ago. The cops with their helicopter took charge, and sent off groups of volunteer S&R bushwalkers to check different areas. When the head of Bushwalking S&R got there a couple of days later (work days), he was, well, 'astonished' at where the cops had sent the volunteers. "Why haven't you search the obvious gully near the camp site" he asked. "Oh, that gully is too hard to get into" they replied. Well, yes, a chopper was absolutely NO use there, and they had zero understanding of terrain. So he took a party (of walkers) into that gully and … guess where the body was? He KNEW that would be where the guy was, because he UNDERSTOOD the terrain and knew what a novice might do, which the cops did not.

Cheers

David Thomas BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2014 at 10:04 pm

I learned the use of USGS quads in Boy Scouts (all Scoutmasters were, by Federal Statute, former Army officers). The Korean-era guys were all about lensatic compasses, but after a few years, a younger guy – Vietnam-era – took over and introduced us to optical-sighting compasses.

That all segued nicely on the home front because my father was a geographer, previously at the USGS (his favorite job because he got to play with maps all day), then at the EPA. As a US government employee, he could get quads for free as long as he didn't ask for too many at once, so he'd often walk from his EPA office to the USGS at 555 Battery Street in SF, and update/expand his collection.

A few times, we'd stop by 345 Middlefield Road in Palo Alto and I remember looking through their stereoscopic viewer to see the incredibly exaggerated vertical on overlapping aerial photographs.

In my 20's, I worked in a BPing store in Castro Valley and we stocked 80 or so maps for the most popular BPing destinations. I explained topo maps to customers and to folks who took our beginning BPing classes. I referenced the horizontal paths that cows travel on around hills in the surrounding ranch land and explained that the USGS had developed special strains of cows that traveled constant-elevation contours at 4,000 feet, 4,500 feet, 5,000 feet, etc. I'd also explain why Greenwich England is where it is. It's not because England, through its Longitude Prize eventually had John Harrison develop an accurate chronometer in 1765. It's because placing the Prime Meridian there maximizes map sales – all the interesting places are at the borders of two quads and all the really great places to hike are at the intersection of four maps. I'd also explain how to trim weight (cut off the edges, relocate the scale to nearer the map, and cut out the lakes – there is no information on a lake).

I just helped my daughter's school's PE teacher run a orienteering course. We had fifty 4th and 5th graders running through the woods (previously checked for moose) from one checkpoint to another using Silva-style baseplate compasses. Of course I told my daughter a few tricks – she comes from a long line of compass-course cheaters. In the 1970's, I'd change the polar coordinates to Cartesian, add them up, convert back and have a single distance and bearing (often something like 50 feet, due north) and we'd nail every compass course. My father, in the 1940's, of course didn't have a calculator, so he used a ruler and protractor to solve the Scout compass course more accurately than pacing it off. As is often the case, if you put enough effort into an elaborate cheat, you get pretty good at the original task.

Bob Gross BPL Member
PostedNov 6, 2014 at 10:13 pm

"I'd also explain why Greenwich England is where it is."

When I was in the London area, I went to the Royal Observatory Greenwich to check the longitude calibration of my GPS receiver. Over the past few centuries, Longitude Zero has crept some number of feet off. It's not actually the calibration of the receiver, but the current datum shows a difference compared to the historic Longitude Zero line.

–B.G.–

PostedNov 7, 2014 at 10:15 am

MGRS is a good map coordinate system, but only if you are in the military.

How's that? It seems quite practical to me, being able to re-use the UTM markings on maps and also avoiding the great format debate (decimal degrees vs. decimal minutes vs. seconds).

-JB

Nick Gatel BPL Member
PostedNov 7, 2014 at 2:27 pm

"could have a good time if we crept into Twentynine Palms or Fort Irwin with the right map."

Is Irwin still open? Haven't been to Ludlow in almost 40 years; that might be interesting. I have driven through 29 Palms about 30 times this year, so the only fun would be to jam their GPS system. Of course if we got bored we could always go find Abela when he overheats in his Cuben tent :)



I haven't tried it, but I think USGS maps can now be downloaded in UTM, MGRS, or the old fashioned grid systems.

Nick Gatel BPL Member
PostedNov 7, 2014 at 2:51 pm

6 years ago I discovered that the USGS has been infiltrated by Commie Pinko Socialist Cows. Yes, it is true. My map was metric with 20 meter countours and the map was smaller in area than a 7.5 quad. To say the least, my route was much more difficult than planned. Of course I realized it when I couldn't descend a slope on my planned route.

To add insult to injury, a couple years later I bought a USFS map for a trip. When I got to the trail head I found the map was printed in Spanish. What the heck? In spite the inability to read the map names, navigation was not a problem.

PostedNov 7, 2014 at 3:49 pm

As of 2011, the USGS topo standard incorporates the USNG standard; the maps have a 1,000m UTM grid and a USNG grid reference box. Since the USNG system is effectively equivalent to MGRS, you have all you need!

Joe L BPL Member
PostedNov 30, 2014 at 7:05 pm

I remember those military veteran scoutmasters. No further comment.

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