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New Zealand South Island, December

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Peter Bakwin BPL Member
PostedOct 7, 2014 at 10:39 am

We're looking at hiking the South Island portion of Te Araroa December – early January. I have never been to NZ, and have some questions.

Is December too early? We'd start at the N end of the island.

We typically hike 25+ mpd on trail in the Sierras or Colorado. Is there any reason we wouldn't keep up a similar pace (on average) on the Te Araroa?

I know there are LOTS of river crossings & the guidebook often says "impassible at higher flow" or some such. In general, how common are situations where you can't get across? How much time should we budget on a 5-6 week hike for this?

Some of the resupply points are quite far off the trail and require fairly long hitchhikes. How easy is it to get a ride to/from the TA on these rural roads in the "backcountry" of NZ?

Any thoughts or insights on what you've found available in NZ supermarkets that made for good camp food – any surprises what was available and great, or what was not available that you wanted?

We typically use alcohol stoves – any problems getting fuel & where do you get it?

Any other thoughts for NZ newbies would be greatly appreciated!

Barry Cuthbert BPL Member
PostedOct 7, 2014 at 2:19 pm

Some quick answers to your questions,

Is December too early? We'd start at the N end of the island.
– I think that your time frame is fine, there is not likely to be much snow around and the weather is fairly settled. There are a number of TA walkers starting from the top of the North Island about now, so you maybe amongst fellow southbound thru-hikers when you start.

We typically hike 25+ mpd on trail in the Sierras or Colorado. Is there any reason we wouldn't keep up a similar pace (on average) on the Te Araroa?
– I can't compare the Sierras or Colorado to NZ (I hope to one day!) but Colin Ibbotson who walked both the PCT and TAT in the same year said he averaged 50km/day on the PCT and 30km/day on the TAT
http://www.tramplite.com/2014/06/te-araroa-trip-report.html
– There is less road walking in the SI so that average maybe lower again for the SI.

I know there are LOTS of river crossings & the guidebook often says "impassible at higher flow" or some such. In general, how common are situations where you can't get across? How much time should we budget on a 5-6 week hike for this?
– It all depends on the weather, i.e. how much rain there is. Rivers and streams tend to rise quickly, but also go down quickly as well. My personal experience is the longest I've had to wait for a river to become safe to cross is three days once the rain in the catchment had stopped.
– The large braided rivers in Canterbury are normally fine to cross (with care) during typical summer flows, and there are alternatives (although somewhat time-consuming and boring road-walks to bridges)

Some of the resupply points are quite far off the trail and require fairly long hitchhikes. How easy is it to get a ride to/from the TA on these rural roads in the "backcountry" of NZ?
– It can be variable, but most people are willing to help out a traveler.

Any thoughts or insights on what you've found available in NZ supermarkets that made for good camp food – any surprises what was available and great, or what was not available that you wanted?
– The selection available in smaller towns without a supermarket (just a 4-Square store) is somewhat limited, but much better than a diary or service station (convenience store).
– One square meals (meal bars) are convenient but not cheap.
– There are always ramen (2-minute) noodles and Continental pasta and sauce packets
– Surprise peas and instant potato
– There is a SI trail notes document available from the Facebook page that details what is available in various town stops along the way
– Freeze dried meals are normally only available from tramping shops
– NZ powdered milk is the best in the world!

We typically use alcohol stoves – any problems getting fuel & where do you get it?
– Methylated spirits (meths) (95% ethanol, 5% methanol) is available pretty much from every petrol station, supermarket, The Warehouse, hardware store or small store like 4 Square. Just look for a purple liquid in a clear 1 litre bottle in the cleaner section. Usually next to the turpentine and kerosene. About $8/bottle.

Any other thoughts for NZ newbies would be greatly appreciated!
– There are a large number of public back country huts along the SI TAT route that offer a bed (and maybe a mattress too), a firebox and drinking water source. To stay at the huts buy a 6 month hut pass (~$90). They are one of the most unique and interesting parts of the culture of tramping in NZ, provide shelter from bad weather, and an interesting social experience.
– One suggestion before starting the South Island leg is to do the 2-4 days leg through the Tararuas north of Wellington at the bottom of the North Island as a warm up and to give you an idea of what some of the tougher sections of the SI leg (Richmond range, Nelson lakes etc.) will be like before catching the ferry from Wellington over to Picton and the start of the Queen Charlotte walkway.
– Another link to US thru-hiker Buck30's guide to the TAT
http://postholer.com/journal/viewJournal.php?event_id=1179
– Most hiking gear is more expensive in NZ than the US
– Check my other posts for more info about tramping in NZ

If you have any other questions, fire away.

Edit: typos

Jason Elsworth BPL Member
PostedOct 7, 2014 at 3:26 pm

Well Barry has said pretty much everything I was going to say:). Colin's report will be full of information for you. I have read Colin's report and found myself nodding in agreement.

I would just add the following link:

http://www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CB8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.justinlichter.com%2Fdocuments%2FTe%2520Araroa%2520Trail.doc&ei=6cxaUOvnB6m0iQfa34CIAg&usg=AFQjCNH7OpsRmyv4AwsEl6jSyn-vHnqD2Q&sig2=qsZSnR6OPlNWL4NZ66Lg1A&cad=rja

Peter Bakwin BPL Member
PostedOct 8, 2014 at 1:33 pm

Great info and links! Thank you!
Does anyone know where to find NZ snowpack info, current vs. climatological means? Just wondering if this is a normal year or what, considering that we'll be there somewhat early in the summer. ??

PostedOct 29, 2014 at 10:43 am

Hey Peter,

Sounds like a great trip. I bikepacked and backpacked several thousand miles all over the North and South Island from Nov 12 – Mar 13 so Im familiar with your timeframe. I dont know where to find snowpack info. But, dont worry too much – shouldn't be much of an issue. The trails around Mt. Cook (highest point) were fine. The snow was sparse, and what little there was, was densely packed and suitable to hike on.

Some other thoughts:
-Kiwis are super friendly and much more willing to pick up a hitchhiker than Americans. If you're wanting to resupply/ shower/ laundry/ hang out in town for a bit… dont be afraid to knock on a door and ask to crash on someones lawn. I did this a lot and developed some good friendships! Just be polite :)
-Bring/ buy as much of your gear in USA as you can. NZ is very very expensive. Also, just MY opinion, but their version of REI (Kathmandu) does not have the best quality gear.
-The blackflies on the Routeburn Track were unbelievable. They may be an issue in the Southland section. Prepare accordingly.

Cheers,
Chris

Barry Cuthbert BPL Member
PostedOct 29, 2014 at 3:09 pm

How could I forget about mentioning the sandflies (the only animal worth being worried about in the NZ bush – the true apex predators!)

http://www.teara.govt.nz/en/sandflies-and-mosquitoes/page-1

The link has a useful map showing relative sandfly intensities, although in my mind the red area “often a nuisance” should extend further down in the north of the south island and further to the right along the southern alps.

DEET works well against against them, I use a 80% deet formula from Bushman’s to good effect. Permethrin clothing would work well too.

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