I went with the Tobus Roger the Randonneur rack that has an integrated fender (see http://www.tobapeople.com/en/product/roger-the-randonneur/). It is a very clean install using the skewer and one bolt to the seat stay crossbar (where a caliper brake would be mounted). I did end up replacing the skewer with a slightly longer one. Toba makes several versions of the Roger rack. Note the lines on the support in the lower photo. The support is actually a stack of spacers so you can adjust the height. The fender has two sections that slide over/under each other and lock in place with setscrews to adjust the angle of the rack. I added a bolt-on tail light.
The rail on the Roger rack gives a low center of gravity and good heel clearance. You will need a pannier with a hook on bottom strap or bungee to connect into an eye in the bottom of the rack support rather than the typical "J" hook on many panniers. You can see the eye just above the skewer quick release in the bottom photo.
I would unload the rack before pulling the wheel out for a repair. If you buy the right tires, you won't need to do that often :)


Axiom makes a rack that has flat metal connectors to sneak in from the rear to the fender stay holes in the dropout, which would be my next choice. From there you get into some very expensive "expedition" racks that are probably best if you are hauling heavy loads, which you can easily avoid with your UL gear and techniques.
I tried a rack that uses plastic spacers and long bolts into the fender stay holes, which I didn't care for. Some other use cast blocks, but still end up using long thin screws that strike me as weak.
The skewer thing bugged me until I realized that all the weight ends up on the skewer anyway. Skewer mounted racks are simple and strong. Do get a good skewer with an enclosed cam and steel acorn nut. I used a Shimano 178mm model. See Sheldon Brown's advice on skewers at http://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html.