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Fabrics Theory/Use

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PostedJul 31, 2014 at 5:43 am

Hi there,

I was recently looking for tshirts/shorts that I can use when sweating a lot – when trail running, mountain biking, climbing.
I decided to get the Rab Aeon Tee since it's very lightweight and quick drying.

When looking across the different products available, the following questions came up in my head:

– should it be as thin as possible, or how much volume do you need for something to wick moisture as good as possible while still not being too warm? I can imagine that the thinnest/most lightweight tshirt might not be the best option since it also has a limited volume. A thicker shirt can also be too much in terms of warmth, making me sweat even more.

– polyester or polyamide (nylon)? I came across a lot of different combinations of polyester and polyamide, but it is very hard to find clear theory about which of these fabrics is really better in terms of wicking (some say nylon, some polyester). What seems to be clear is that nylon is more durable.

What I found the most difficult thing is how to find out what all these brand names like capilene, driclime, blah really are. It's very confusing since some are very similar, some are simply aliases, etc.

What I am looking for is tests/theoretical answers to the questions above, not just opinions and something like a collection/explanation for different materials, hierarchies etc so I can learn about the fundamental differences and really draw conclusions like "for this activity this fabric is optimal" instead of blindly relying on opinions and marketing descriptions..

I realize that my question might be a bit unclear, but I think you understand what I mean.

PostedJul 31, 2014 at 5:46 am

If there's a place to ask questions like this, it's BPL.

That being said, this is one area where I feel like any shirt is going to be 95% marketing and hype, and 5% polyester.

PostedJul 31, 2014 at 6:15 am

Composition alone is not sufficient. You also need to consider how the fabrics are made.

Whether the threads spun into a tight or "bushy" yarn will influence transport.

Are the threads coated before weaving, or is the fabric coated after weaving?

Weaving two yarns, one hydrophilic and one hydrophobic will create a "push/pull" effect to move moisture. Or the same yarn, but where the woof and weft are coated differently.

Variation in the fabric thickness across the garment will affect transport – "dense" across the chest and back for durability, but open and thin in the pits for quick evaporation.

I'm sure there are many more examples, and I'm sure there is no easy analysis.

"Field Tests" by others in an environment and use similar to yours will get you close.
Trusted Opinions are your friend.

After that, you buy three and test them on Your body.

Steve K BPL Member
PostedJul 31, 2014 at 8:18 am

In my opinion, the most comfortable shirts when sweaty are hands down the bicomponent fabrics like Arcteryx's Phasic SL as in their Motus SS shirts.

This is because the weave and mix of materials actively encourage moisture to the outside of the fabric. However, if the fabric is overwhelmed (completely soaked, not just damp) it feels no more comfortable than any other wet shirt.

The second most comfortable are wool. This is because wool has a similar characteristic to the bicomponent wovens, which is that they draw moisture away from the surface very readily. Again, if the fabric is completely soaked it feels pretty nasty.

Beyond that, since I can't afford enough Arc'teryx and wool shirts to wear every day, I wear a lot of super lightweight wicking shirts from North Face's FlashDry collection (which are really excellent), a handful of REI Power Dry shirts (an excellent value even not on sale), and those gossamer-thin Outdoor Research Echo shirts.

Of those, I find the coarser weave of shirts to be more comfortable when damp (less tacky) but the finer weave shirts seem to dry faster. YMMV, of course.

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