Bike Multi-Tool recommendations?

Hey EJ,

I've been an avid mountain biker for just about 30 years and here are a few thoughts I've accumulated regarding multitools:

– Choose a tool based on the most common repairs you'll encounter. For me that means:
– Flat tire
– Adjusting seatpost, stem, brake lever, shifter
– Fix broken chain

– I prefer tools that split apart and allow you to use the allen wrenches and sockets/open wrenches separately. This particularly important for a lot of full suspension designs for tightening the rear shock.

– Carry several tire levers separate of the multi-tool. It's handy and cool looking to have a tire lever integrated into the tool, but this is the one item I have broken multiple times.

– I understand that you want something compact that you can pack and forget, but a few individual tools are generally easier (and cheaper) that the multi-tools.

All that being said, I personally pack a Topeak Alien tool. It's about 10 years old, is small and has the chain tool outside the main body. I've broken pieces and Topeak has replaced them free of charge.

Honestly, I don't think you can go wrong with any of the tools listed, but here's how I'd personally rank them:

1) Topeak Alien II – separates into 2 pieces and has all the tools you'll need to fix just about anything. Throw in a set of 3 Park tire levers, a pump, spare tube, patch kit and you'll be set.

2)Topeak Hexus II – the tire irons come off the body, so they'll be easier to use. I like how small and compact it is.

3) Tie for the Crank Brother and Topeak Mini Multi – all of these are much more compact and lighter, but a bit harder to use for more complicated fixes. I've used the Crank Bro tools and they just didn't work well.

Hope that helps. One thing to keep you rolling is to make sure your bike is well tuned and good to go before you head out. That alone will be the best thing you can do to ensure a repair free trip.

I've been dancing around this myself. I already own a Leatherman Wave with Allen bits, so that was my first choice, but it is heavy. It does take the place of all my other favorite trail tools, plus a file, pliers and wire cutter.

Some of the big bike multi-tools strike me like a Swiss Army knife with too many layers. Simpler is better I think, so something like the Crank Brothers M10 has all the goodies you really need for field repairs. You can get into the same what-if game as hiking gear: at some point you're going to have to walk it back to the car. Likewise, a chain tool seems more like a bench tool to me and not much use unless you have a spare chain or carry a section of chain. I'm more on the touring side than single track, so I'm not that hard on chains.

Another way to go is a Swiss Army knife with a Phillips screwdriver plus whatever combination of tools you like, and just add a collection of Allen wrenches to match the fittings on your bike and wrap 'em up with a rubber band. As with the Leatherman, you get all the hiking tools and you can tweak any fitting on the bike short of replacing stuff you wouldn't be doing in the field anyway. I can handle just about anything on my bike with 3/4/5/6mm Allen bits and a Phillips. In fact this is just what I handed my daughter for her repair kit.

You can get a short stack of Allen keys pretty cheap. The thing with a classic Allen key is that you get a lot of leverage for the weight and cost. Get the ball head version and you could adjust something halfway up your nose :)

The multi-tool I lust for is the Fix-It Sticks, with two hex bit holders that combine to make a tee wrench. I love the clever design and they take standard bits, so you can tweak them to suit your needs. They are, of course, too expensive (30-$35) for just the novelty. There have been many hex bit holder gizmos made over the years, with a driver handle of some sort holding hex bits inside.

For flats, yes to good simple plastic tire levers. I have the one with three in a sleeve. Add small patch kit, CO2 inflator (I got one cheap) or a pump and a spare tube. I like the spare tube thing: think pouring rain, dark, side of the road, glue dried up, etc, etc.

The best urban repair kit I've heard of is a good lock and enough bus or taxi fare to get home :) You're going to have the lock anyway….

If I'm home, I like "real" tools like full sized screwdrivers and Allen wrenches with ball heads. Then there are all the specialty wrenches for getting in tight spots, weird spanner nuts and the like. I gather those only when needed. I like tools and they stick to me better than hiking gear. After decades of cars, motorcycles, boats, home construction and remodeling and living in the same house for 30 years, it's the tools that challenge any thoughts on "simple living." Keep it simple!

"For flats, yes to good simple plastic tire levers."

I am a strong proponent of tool-less tire changes. Far less chance of pinching the tube. Much faster to get them off and on. Less stuff to carry and keep track of.

If you can Mount the tire and tube without tools, you know you can Un-mount them without tools.

Sometimes it takes a bit of effort to find the right tires for your rims but, usually, they are out there. One exception I had were the ooold trek matrix rims of the 80's. Nothing would come off or go on without tools. I bought new rims. I haven't used a tool since then on road or mountain rims – probably a dozen bikes by now. My wife can manage it. And it's not a strength thing. It fit and technique. (Not bragging, just saying.)

YMMV.

I've used topeak aliens before.

Now I use prestaratchet, much better and lighter, and easy to tailer the kit to what you need for each bike.

David and Dale, great advice, thank you. I'm thinking about continuing with my prior method of putting together my own tools (the Cool Tool was just a simple adjustable wrench with several hex wrenches that fit into it) but I was hoping there was some great multi-tool out there.

One advantage to a multi-tool is that it's harder to lose the individual tools than when using individual detached tools. Might be a good strategy to use a very simple multi-tool with key basics just so you don't lose individual tools.

Similar sentiments expressed here: http://thebikeshow.net/touring-tip-5-resist-the-multitool/

Anyone have a favorite stand=alone chain tool?

Adam the Prestaratchet looks like a great all-around tool to have, even at home. As this thread notes you can put something similar together at the hardware store if you don't already have one: http://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/808993-anyone-else-tried-prestaratchet.html "I accomplish the same thing with a 1/4" square drive ratchet and a 1/4" square drive-to-hex bit adapter. That lets me use all of my 1/4" hex bits which include screw drivers, allen bits, Torx bits, etc. and use my 1/4" square drive extensions, universal joints, sockets, etc." Have you found any benefit to the Prestaratchet over this?

Greg, interesting, never knew. Sounds like a good way to go if you already have a tire you know works, but considering my nylon tire levers are light and work super fast and I've never pinched a tube, I'd rather not spend all that time searching for a tire that will work.

I got a Park Tool CT-5 at REI for my most recent chain swap adventure. It worked well on a 9-speed chain..

http://www.rei.com/product/544208/park-tool-compact-chain-tool

I've always used the little topeak chain tools. They work fine.

The comment on that thread, he is talking about using his workshop 1/4 drive ratchet. That would work fine for most things in the workshop, but is of course far far too heavy a solution for on the road. Also, the prestratchet has a big advantage in size…you can get it into tricky places like around disc brake calipers, road brakes, etc. For a workshop tool, I would look at getting a Park Tools torque wrench if that's what you are after. Save your components.

Many bikepackers seem to recommend separate tools needed for the specific bike rather than multitools.

I like the idea of weight savings of a multi tool and not dropping small loose pieces/tools. On the other hand, it can take some time finding a multi tool that has all the tools you want and not to many extras.

The ones I use most are
Chain tool ( yes it is useful without a spare chain, just carry a quick link) I have broken plenty of chains.
Tire levers, plastic ones are light and safe on rims, ho fully strong enough if your tires a rest too tight
4,5,6 mm Allen keys.
T25 torx keys( many higher end SRAM bolts as well as all disc rotor bolts
Screwdriver, flat seems to work better for most bolts on a bike, but check yours. Limit screws on derailleur a are just about the only place they are around, and accessory mounts(GPS etc).
Slightly less often, but still essential
2.5mm Allen, many locking grips use this
3 mm Allen, other locking grips as well as brake pad retaining bolts
8 mm Allen, many cranks as well as some pedals! Make sure it is long enough and that you can put enough torque on it!
2 mm Allen, assorted small bolts, so light and often part of mini tool, I'd bring it.
1.5 mm Allen, rare, but if your bike uses it, it's so incredibly light, no sense leaving it home.
T10 torx, bleed screw on many brakes, rarely needed but tiny
10 mm Allen, some crank self extracting bolts, rarely needed and heavy if separate, probably leave at home.
Open ended wrenches, only used on hubs these days, might take or leave home depending on hub

Small pliers (I use tiniest leather man) pull cable tight, screw presta valve cores back in, etc. almost essential.
Cassette locking tool. The are some models that cam against the chainstay, so you don't need a wrench. However, if tightened well and perhaps locktighted, the chance of one lessening is perhaps small.

I found this interesting Ritchey C.P.R.-9 tool in a used bike store last week. It originally had an o-ring on the Allen key to keep in in place, but someone added a Presta to Schrader adapter with an o-ring seal inside that acts as a retainer.

Here's a catalog description from http://www.bikepro.com/products/chains/chaintools.html :

"The C.P.R.-9 builds on the 5 model. It is made using the same 7075-T6 extrusion. A fourth 6mm hex hole that went unused in the C.P.R.-5, located in the upper pusher anvl is put to use here. A 17.9mm long steel 6mm hex is pressed through the 11mm deep hole, leaving an exposed near 6mm length for use as a hex wrench. The pusher piece of the C.P.R.-9 is different from the C.P.R.-5. It has a 5mm hex wrench fashioned at its rear, with a 4mm hole passing through the area joining the pusher to the 5mm hex wrench. Through this hole a 70mm long, 4mm hex wrench passes. The short length of the 4mm wrench is left as a 4mm wrench, the long end is run into a rotating grinder that grinds the hex shape into a 4mm by .72mm flat blade screwdriver. There is a groove cut around the wrench used to recess an O-ring. With the O-ring in place, the wrench won't slide out of the 4mm hole in the pusher piece. To sum up, we have added a 4mm, 5mm, 6mm hex and a small screwdriver to the C.P.R.-5 The aluminum structure is Black anodized, the tool weighs 46 grams. Made in Taiwan."