Bob Marshall 50mi Loop Recommendations

Daniel, all three are solid options. Which you pick should come down to personal preference.

A lot of option 1 burned last year. This can be good, in that you'll have more open views, and bad, in that it could be quite hot. Headquarters Pass is a cool hike, and Gates Park a neat area to visit.

The Holland Lake area is quite different. Much wetter, with more trees and lusher vegetation. There is a good mix of scenery on this hike, both alpine, dense forest, and valleys. More elevation gain too.

While the Chinese Wall is really cool, as is the lower North Fork Sun valley, option three would actually be my last pick of the lot. Moose Creek and the upper West Fork aren't bad hikes, but they aren't fantastic either, and the other options have more variety. It is the easiest option.

@David: Is there a good 50 mi loop that I'm not considering? Also, I'd like to hike with my hammock. Is hanging a problem in the Bob?

Those are all good options, and popular for a reason. I could give you recommendations all day, but if you've never been any of those options are as good as any others.

Hanging shouldn't be an issue. Hypothetically not being able to sleep on the ground might cause you to skip the occasional alpine spot, but on any of those loops it shouldn't be an issue.

@David Good info. Thanks. I've practiced setting up my hammock as a bivy using my hiking poles, so I could make alpine work if the weather is ok.

How bout seeing wildlife. That's an attraction of doing the North Wall. How is wildlife on the Holland lake side of the divide? One in the group asked if campfires are permitted in the wilderness.

TIA
-=Dan=-

I read up on the 2013 wildfires, and see that Gates Park and Red Shale Creek areas burned last year in the Red Shale fire. Also mentioned that Moose Creek had a smaller wildfire. Thanks for the heads up to check this.

Fires are allowed just anywhere, just be sensible about it. Probability of wildlife is probably greatest in the North Wall area, more specifically in the upper reaches of the N Fork Sun. There is wildlife in the Upper Holland area, but you're much less likely be actually put eyes on it.

We're planning the Holland Lake loop. We'd like to get to the trailhead in the evening so we can get an early start in the morning to climb the ridge. Can we primitive camp around Holland Lake? The campground is booked, but online shows First Come / First Served sites. Didn't want to depend on that but is that an option? Hoping to backcountry camp around the lake and still get back to car before hitting the trail in the morning. Suggestions?

Our path starts a Holland Lake, up Holland Lookout to Sapphire Lake Trail to Necklace Lakes, Big Salmon Creek trail to Big Salmon Lake, West Side South Fork Flathead to Holbrook Creek, Holbrook Creek Trail to Shaw creek and Big Salmon Creek trails to Upper Holland Lake, then Holland-Gordon Trail back.

Any highly recommended camping along this path?

Thanks
-=Dan=-

Assuming you're coming up 83 from the south, I'd just pull off on one of the forest service roads near Holland Lake and camp there. Drive a few miles up the Morrell-Clearwater road, for example, and camp for free wherever you like.

Lots of good places to camp along the way. Necklace Lakes, head of Big Salmon, and along the S Fork would be highlights.

Enjoy!

We have a choice between Holbrook Creek and Burnt Creek trail on the return. Recommend one over the other?

-=Dan=-

I haven't been up either, so I cannot say.

I'm headed up there this weekend for a couple nights and can try and report back.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Hope the weather holds for you!

Well, got back yesterday afternoon from my weekend in the Bob. Overall good trip, although scenery was less than I hoped. I had 2 nights free. Quick summary…

Route and Notes:

Got late start on Friday due to work crap in the morning. Arrived Holland Lake trailhead (north side of lake) a little after lunch on Friday. Headed up #415 to #42, with steady climb and nice views of the Lake and the Mission Mtns. Went up the less traveled route over the ridge past the Holland Lake lookout cabin (cabin was not on my map). View from ridge looking both east and west was nice, of course. Then to #110 past Necklace Lakes and along Smokey Cr. This area was nice mixed terrain with the cool rock outcroppings that I find a lot just over ridge on the east side of Swans. At this stage, I was at the junction for heading up to Big Salmon Lake. It was late because of my late start and I had lost a lot of time gorging on huckleberries and waiting out a lightning storm (see weather below). I decided that racing out to the SF Flathead River tomorrow would put me there mid day and leave me no time to fish and still get me back by Sunday afternoon. So I rerouted myself south. Camped at the Pendant ranger cabin with two nice heavy haulers from Illinois (who were green and packing a semiautomatic for the Bears). I coached them on bear safety to help them sleep and helped them get a fire going (dry wood was scarce). We had nice night with the stars out. They were the first and only people I saw that day

On Saturday finished hiking south on #212 along Shaw Creek. Nothing special there, although lots of mushrooms and huckleberries. I was aiming for Gordon Creek, as it looked from the map to have bigger water for some quick Tenkara fun. Made it down to Shaw Cabin and then Shirttail Park for lunch. Continued along #35. (Btw the Holland-Gordon trail is a highway of pack trains and rather trashed, especially after rain.) Little easy river access to the Gordon. Just to explore, went a good ways up #506 Cardinal Creek trail, which was far far less traveled. Places where you can easily lose the trail. Would love to do that the whole way over Gordon Mtn. Went back, had dinner where #506 crossed the Gordon. Fished, but only caught little cutthroats…too small to eat. Hiked back and camped at Shirttail Park so I could make it back out the next day more quickly. Didn't see a single other person all day.

Sunday got up and fished, catching a lot more little cutthroats, but nothing cooking size. So settled for granola breakkfast. Then headed west on #35 up to Gordon Pass. Just below the pass the scenery was quite nice. A welcome break from being in the trees for the last day plus. But again, the trail is a highway. Saw people once I was up towards the pass, and then hoards once past Upper Holland Lake, which is popular day hike, for good reason, as it is pretty. Back to car mid afternoon, so about a 48 hour trip.

Couldn't tell you mileage, I rarely keep track unless the map makes it easy.

Weather:

Lots of rain on drive down from Bigfork/Ferndale. But on trail, Friday afternoon was mixed with grey, sun, and then a heavy lightening storm (I fast pitched the tarp in some trees and waited it out for an hour or so). Finally clearing to a beautiful evening and night. Saturday was most grey with some off and on rain/drizzle. Sunday was basically beautiful.

Gear:

Went with my beltless Zpacks zero. Flat tarp, quilt, blah blah. Worked good. It was my longest trip without a hipbelt pack (only used it on overnights previously) and I was consciously seeing how far I could push it comfortably. Two nights is probably my limit there, as my shoulders are now pretty sore (I'm a small guy, about 130lbs with a bad left shoulder). I also ate so many huckelberries that I ended up packing half my food out with me. Ate berries instead of my bars and much of my breakfasts and lunches. So pack was heavier on average than I planned.

Impressions:

Not so impressed overall with that section of the Bob. I had similar experience on a past trip to Sunburst Lake north of there. I've done lots of trips in and around Jewel Basin, which I like much more. Also preferred trips I've done Great Bear and in the dry east side of Scapegoat (Glacier is another story…beautiful, but I hate dealing with permits). Maybe the key is to make it down to the Flathead or to come in from the East side, neither of which I have done because it is hard for me to get the time from work and family. Thoughts from Mike C are welcome as to his favorite areas. Most of the trails from Holland lake are in the valleys and so you are in the trees with no views. And the trails are kept mostly from the water, so its pretty dull hiking.

Nice trip, but don't think I would do it again. Too much in treed valleys with no view of water for me. I think need at least 3 or 4 nights to make it down to the SF Flathead and have time there to fish and explore. I think next quick trip I have, I'll run into the Mission Wilderness, which I have not explored.

Michael,

Warning! Opinions ahead.

I share your overall impression of The Bob. It is vast, lonely, a great place to avoid the crowds but the scenery is not exceptionally spectacular, the trails tease you with glimpses of impressive landscape, then they veer off before you can get close enough to truly enjoy what you saw 30 minutes ago. It seems to be the land of forested mountains and creeks whereas Glacier Park is the land of variety with spectacular rocky cliffs, creeks, waterfalls, and lakes. Don't get me wrong and don't hate me–I want to go back and see more. Know, too, that my opinions are based on having walked about 60 trail miles, so not very much.

Of course the Chinese Wall is worth seeing. So is Gateway Gorge. The view from Family Peak, my avatar, is very worthwhile–mountains seemingly extending forever and views all the way into Glacier Park. Richmond Peak (?) as seen from the North Fork of Birch Creek is fairly impressive. I very much enjoy car camping at Cave Mountain or Mill Falls just east of The Bob and day hiking up to the wilderness boundary at Headquarters Pass and Route Creek Pass.

Switching gears, a nice goal in the Mission Mtns. Wilderness is Lost Lake. We camped at Crystal Lake and day-hiked to Lost. There is no trail beyond Crystal and there is some bushwhacking to get to Lost. The reward is worth it. Apparently the same can be said of High Park Lake.

Michael,

It sounds like you spent some time in similar parts of the Bob that I did earlier this summer. So, like John, just a few observations:

1. The weather has been odd as of late. Thunderstorms and heavy rainclouds in August is not typical (not unwelcome, but not typical) around here.

2. The west side of the Bob Complex is defined by long drainages. You have to get a lot deeper into the wilderness to see the kinds of things you're wishing for. The east side is a bit clearer (rainshadow effect, and all that), but it's a long hike in no matter what, even more so coming from the west.

3. Small cutthroat is the order of the day in some of the western creeks. But, if you can get deeper in, the water can be very, very nice–well worth its own trip in places. That said, keep in mind that the smaller fish often taste even better than the bigger ones. They're easier to cook too.

Anyway, glad you got to experience the Bob and are willing to continue exploring. I've recently become seduced by its charm, even after hiking pretty much all of Glacier's trails. Don't tell anyone, but it's a fantastic place to be.

Michael, the stretch of Gordon you happened into is quite straight and relatively shallow for whatever reason. A mile lower and the creek starts meandering and forms more pools and runs. I pulled some absolute hogs out of that stretch a few weeks ago (and floated up on a cow and calf moose). Accessing the upper creeks which drain from the Swan Crest into the S Fork can be a bit of a nuisance, but in my book they contain the best fly fishing on earth. Certainly the best in Montana (which is a matter upon which I'm actually qualified to comment).

The scenery in Glacier tends to be more immediately gratifying than the Bob, with the Bob rewarding longer trips, more miles, and a subtler eye. My last three months have seen 8 backpacks in the Bob, and 2 in Glacier, so I'm voting with my feet. Plus the permit issue in Glacier is a real pain.

Thanks for the thoughts Dave (not to confuse you this time with "Mike C").

I do need to get into the Bob further. I'm out here every summer for about a month, but never am able to get more than a couple nights free, so it is a challenge getting into the Bob as far as it warrants. I can't express the frustration being so close but it still be out of reach. Over the last 9 summers, keep exploring the margins of the Bob, but never the deep interior.

I'll admit to not really working the fly fishing very hard. I spent my time hiking, and didn't give fishing more than an hour total. I was hooping for a quick score to add to my ramen dinner. The water looked like, with the proper attention, you could do quite well. Next time I need to bring some neoprene socks and actually work the stream properly. I'm going to start negotiating 3 or 4 nights off for next summer. Would love to convince you to join me. Next summer I am also going to try to run from Jewel Basin trailhead to Bear Creek road trailhead, if you are interested in a trail run/fast pack adventure.

Keep in touch Michael.

The keys to getting into the heart of the Bob, aside from 30+ mile days, are a willing shuttle driver and a packraft. Monture to Spotted Bear is a very reasonable three day trip, for example.