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SEKI Great Western Divide traverser Sept 2014 planning

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M G BPL Member
PostedJul 11, 2014 at 8:47 pm

I have the following itinerary in mind, it's ambitious I know. But there is lots of room to improvise along the general route, with peak bagging options if we are feeling strong. I'm hoping to incorporate a shorter day into a stay at Lake Reflection if possible but if the time is short that can be dropped and we can go directly from Thunder Pass to Longley. I've also sketched out an alternate route over the KK via Harisson as I'd like to cross that pass but this is not the priority, Thunder Pass is the preferred route.

Thoughts? suggestions? Our acclimatization strategy will likely raise some concerns but in general we plan to spend two nights below 10k before sleeping high and to go progressively to higher altitudes during the day. We will consider sleeping below Glacier Lake on Day 2 if necessary. We were successful using this approach on two previous trips to the Sierras.

I would appreciate some thoughts on the merit of the traverse into the Picket Creek as well as routes to do so. My drawn lines for that segment are very vague. I hope the terrain dictates a clever route.

Map here: http://caltopo.com/map?id=4K4E
Itinerary below:

Sept. 12: Fly to SFO, drive to Princess Campground, 5,900' elev in SNF
Sept. 13, Day 1: Pickup permit at Roads End, Hike over Avalanche pass (~10,000') to camp at Roaring Brook ~7,400' elev
Sept. 14, Day 2. Deadman Canyon or Cloud Canyon to Glacier Lake
Sept. 15, Day 3.

Option 1 Climb Triple Divide Peak, then cross Milestone Pass and ascend Milestone Peak camp in upper Kern

Option 2 Climb Triple Divide Peak, then hike up in to upper Kern Kaweah drainage and cross into picket drainage, return to camp near base of triple divide/Colby trail. Resume with Milestone Option following day

Sept. 16. Day 4 Cross Thunder pass and down to Lake Reflection

Sept. 17. Day 5 Cross Longley, ascend South Guard and traverse to camp near Big Brewer Lake
Sept. 18. Day 6 Climb Brewer and North Guard Either stay in same camp or cross Sphinx to camp near Sphinx Lake

Sept. 19. Day 7 Climb Francis Farquar and descend to RE or camp at Sphinx Lake
Sept. 20th Day 8 Exit to Roads End, drive back to SF

chris smead BPL Member
PostedJul 12, 2014 at 1:57 am

Sounds like an amazing trip in less travelled backcountry.
Watch out for Avalanche pass. Not dangerous or anything….just exhausting.. Straight up zig zaggy at the start of your trip when you're carrying the most food/water weight. Not much water up there, especially this year, and it's exposed, so bring at least a few liters to get you over the hump.

Haven't done deadman canyon….but Cloud canyon is nice, good views of whaleback.
Trail is good but breaks up a little when it starts over Colby pass. Some talus to deal with between whaleback and Colby lake…but not bad….not sure if you're heading over that though.

Roaring is just ok…kinda civilized…lots of fire rings, a few bear boxes, a bridge, etc.

PostedJul 12, 2014 at 1:39 pm

"Sept. 15, Day 3.

Option 1 Climb Triple Divide Peak, then cross Milestone Pass and ascend Milestone Peak camp in upper Kern"

I'm not sure how you plan to get from Triple Divide Peak to the bottom of Milestone Bowl but, no matter how you do it, you are in for a very long day if you also intend to climb Milestone Peak and then go all the way to the Upper Kern Basin. You might want to consider breaking this up into two sections. There is a lot of talus on the Milestone Pass section, on both sides, that will slow you down, and a certain amount of care must be exercised going down from the 12,000' ridge Secor describes to get to the Colby Pass trail before ascending into Milestone Bowl.

"Option 2 Climb Triple Divide Peak, then hike up in to upper Kern Kaweah drainage and cross into picket drainage, return to camp near base of Triple Divide/Colby trail. Resume with Milestone Option following day"

Again, I'm not sure how you intend to get from Triple Divide into the Pickett Creek drainage, but if you intend to go via the saddle between the 4th Pickett and Lawson Peak, be prepared for a lot of side hilling on loose shale and possibly consolidated, slippery snow cups. Another long day.

To be clear, I am not questioning your route choices, just observing that it may take you longer than you are thinking now. All in all, your route is one that you will find highly rewarding, albeit challenging and strenuous.

PostedJul 12, 2014 at 1:41 pm

"Sept. 16. Day 4 Cross Thunder pass and down to Lake Reflection"

Why drop all the way down to Lake Reflection and have to deal with crowds and bears?
There are several areas just below Longley where you can camp among the lakelets, and have wonderful views of the area from a lofty perch far from the madding crowds.

M G BPL Member
PostedJul 12, 2014 at 11:02 pm

Tom,

Thanks for the feedback. I've adjusted the itinerary as follows: Planned additional time on days 3 and 4 for x-country travel over triple divide, into picket creek and over Milestone. Also took out the side trip down to Reflection, that was a dumb idea. Was just tempted by all the great fish I saw jumping around in there last year.

PostedJul 13, 2014 at 5:24 pm

" I've adjusted the itinerary as follows:"

I think you've got it pretty well nailed at this point, MG. Now comes the fun part.

The good thing about allowing a little extra time on those sections is that it will allow you to take advantage of unexpected, attractive opportunities that will come up as the trip unfolds. Once you get into the headwaters of Pickett creek, for instance, a class 2 scramble up Pickett Guard Peak may suddenly look like a lot of fun. Maybe even ambling over to Kaweah Basin proper and descending the east(unnamed) fork of Pickett Creek and coming back up the Kern-Kaweah River on your way to Milestone Bowl/Pass. Who knows? Lots of other possibilities will come up as well, you can be sure of that. Those are the kinds of things that get decided on the fly, IME. I'm looking forward to a trip report on this one, man.

PostedJul 14, 2014 at 8:56 am

MG,

I did a hike out in that area a few years back. Short trip report at:
http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=24319

It's amazing out there. But don't underestimate some of the travel time (and some danger) travelling over that talus, e.g. Milestone Pass.

We had plans to climb Brewer but by the time we went past it (camped just below Longley the night before) we were pretty tired, and could smell the beer down at Roads End.

Be careful and have a great time!

M G BPL Member
PostedJul 14, 2014 at 10:05 am

@ Dave T

I've looked at your trip report a few times and it actually helped me finalize a lot of the details of my route. I spent some time in the Upper Kern (crossing the KK over Little Joe) last year around the same time as you (16-26 Sept. ) so I've got a fairly good sense of what kind of fun we are in for.

Curious what time of the day you left Road's End on your way in over Avalanche and how long it took you to get to that pass? Similarly how long on trail for your second day to get from Avalanche pass to Elizabeth pass area? Finally I'm interested in the Bill Finch details you mention in your post re: Triple Divide Pass.

PostedJul 14, 2014 at 10:15 am

> Curious what time of the day you left Road's End on your way in over Avalanche and how long it took you to get to that pass?

I don't remember exactly when we left, but I think it was first thing after getting the permit. With heavy-ish packs we spent the whole day trudging up to the campsite atop Avalanche. It's a long, long way up those switchbacks, and at elevation.

> Similarly how long on trail for your second day to get from Avalanche pass to Elizabeth pass area?

Again, it was the full day basically, though much easier than day 1, and we probably had a bit more time left in the day, but wasn't sure we'd find anywhere flat to camp on the way up to the pass. Don't recall stopping much, other than to talk with some nice trail crew folks, who even invited us back to their camp for dinner. Watch out for ravenous mice if you camp up on the ledges climbing to Elizabeth. On the whole trip, we were pretty much hiking all day, with short breaks here and there.

> Finally I'm interested in the Bill Finch details you mention in your post re: Triple Divide Pass.

Not sure what you mean, unless it's about the ridge you have to get up (or down). Finding the way off it when heading east was definitely tricky. Once you find the right spot, it's easy. Let me know what details you need!

Bob Gross BPL Member
PostedJul 14, 2014 at 5:27 pm

I hate it to have to get a permit at Roads End and then leave. Waiting for the ranger to open up is a pain, waiting in line is a pain, and then rushing to get the pack… No thanks.

Instead, I get a permit reserved. Then I arrive the afternoon before start, pick up the permit, and sleep overnight at a Cedar Grove campground. Then I can get up super early, drive to Roads End, and be on the trail at 6 a.m. while it is nice and cool.

–B.G.–

M G BPL Member
PostedJul 14, 2014 at 8:13 pm

If we can get there before they close on the Friday that's the plan for us as well. I fly in early morning into SFO, we'll see what time we leave.

Bob Gross BPL Member
PostedJul 14, 2014 at 9:34 pm

You better check on the Roads End hours of operation.

At the last time that I was there, it closed at 3:30 p.m. or something.

Also, I have been around there at opening time, and there was practically a fight to see who was first in line.

–B.G.–

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