Ladakh, Zanskar

First things first: will you visit the region independently or organised? And if independently, do you prefer backpacking independently or with support (guide and/or pack horses)?
Will you trek solo of in a group/with a partner? Are you experienced (there is no organised SAR service in the area)?

I have visited the region twice. Some information can be found here: http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=80285

As for sleeping bags: 10F will be to warm. You’ll get a way with 20F or even 30F. Nighttime temperatures during summer normally remain above freezing level (unless you plan to camp on passes).

Note that the Zanskar region is a part of Ladakh.

As for regions, I wouldn’t recommend the Zanskar trek anymore: the ongoing road construction is slowly but certainly killing this trek (it can be partially mitigated though, through the use of parallel – remote – valleys and/or by hitching a ride or taking a taxi, but that will interrupt/kill the ‘Ladakh’ experience). A pity as the views remain stupendous.

The most popular trek in the Ladakh is the Markha trek. I’ve read reports that also the Markha trek is partially being affected by road construction (google around for the latest insights). It is however one of the few serious treks that can be done as a ‘homestay’ trek (= sleeping and/or eating in the villages one passes). And there are plenty of gpx-file on wikiloc.com.

With three weeks available mid-July – August, and providing you’ll backpack independently I would recommend doing the Karnak valley trek south to north, starting from the Manali-Leh road at the (in)famous ‘gata loops’. By the time you run out of food, you’ll hit the Markha trek route, which you can follow further west as a ‘homestay’ trek (or you could bail out faster, following the Markha trek route east, going over the Gongmaru La pass). That way, you’ll see 2,5 weeks of uninterrupted backpacking (and without the need to carry the weight of 2,5 weeks worth of food. Given the altitude, I would highly discourage heavy backpacks).

More remote treks might be difficult and dangerous mid-summer as they involve potentially dangerous river crossings. September will be much safer for that.

Wim

PS: English is not my mother tongue. Therefore apologizes in advance for spelling errors.

Dear Wim

Thank you for your answer. I didn't get a notification of your reply and I've been away traveling and didn't check the forum in many months.
The information is very helpful. My partner and I and our daughter will be trekking independently and we now have an extra two weeks for the trip.
We don't plan to take a guide, we are experienced backpackers but the remoteness of the region warrants good preparation.
We are planning on taking a satphone for emergencies. I read your other post about the signal being traced. Thank you for that info as well.
Our biggest concern is our 10 year old. She is fit and is used to walking in the Swiss alps above 1500m, that said we are planning to acclimatize for a week before starting any longer walks.
How many km a day were you walking during your time there? We usually walk a third of our daily km when our daughter is along so she manages 10-12km a day and still enjoy it. We thought about doing 2x2hr/day and seeing how far we get.
Might the Zanskar trek be a good idea? Having the option to hitch a ride might be nice.
We are thinking about preparing our own freeze dried food to take along, or can we find light trekking food there?
We usually use a catcan stove? Were you able to find alcohol there, which kind and what brand and where? Or did you use gas?
We use a sawyer filter for water, did you find enough running water? Is the sawyer filter enough?
Was it a problem to do wild camping? We prefer to sleep outside rather than homestay. Did you ever experience problems camping outside, police, military, drunk locals ( we've had all that happen which is why we ask )? Did you prefer to camp near villages or away from people?
What did you use for bathroom breaks, did you bring paper, or is there materials to collect you can use? I guess leaves aren't in abundance.
Lots of questions and I sincerely hope you have time to reply.
Also, English isn't my first language either so I hope you find some amusing spelling mistakes.
thank you
Cornelius

Hi Cornelius,

I noted my answers between your questions:

We don't plan to take a guide, we are experienced backpackers but the remoteness of the region warrants good preparation.
We are planning on taking a satphone for emergencies. I read your other post about the signal being traced. Thank you for that info as well.
Answer: google around. Penalties can be very severe if caught. Consider a Delorme Inreach if you want to remain connected

Our biggest concern is our 10 year old. She is fit and is used to walking in the Swiss alps above 1500m, that said we are planning to acclimatize for a week before starting any longer walks.
How many km a day were you walking during your time there? We usually walk a third of our daily km when our daughter is along so she manages 10-12km a day and still enjoy it. We thought about doing 2x2hr/day and seeing how far we get.
Answer: with that schedule in mind, the Zanskar trip might be too risky with a child (250k, although 40k or so can be hitched). You do your own research: wikiloc contains some Zankar trek gps-files. Download one as a kmz-file and open it in Google Earth. If you play around with Google Earth, it is possible to get a chart with the length & altitude of the trek.
Also, did you get the two guidebooks I recommended? Might help with your assessment.
At the end, I will be up to you and your family to make a final decision.

Might the Zanskar trek be a good idea? Having the option to hitch a ride might be nice.
We are thinking about preparing our own freeze dried food to take along, or can we find light trekking food there?
Answer: as said in my previous answer, I think Zanskar is a bit risky with a child. Also keep in mind the long & bumpy rides to & from the trailhead of that trek. That might be an (extra) killer for a child.
I would strongly suggest the Markha trek with a child. Can be extend in the west by starting from Lamayuru, and in the east with the Kharnak trek. The latter will be remote, so experience with backpacking is paramount.

We usually use a catcan stove? Were you able to find alcohol there, which kind and what brand and where? Or did you use gas?
Answer: I use an MSR wisperlite, so I just fuel up unleaded petrol at a petrol station. I am uncertain whether the supply of gas cartridges of alchohol is available & reliable in Leh. Can’t help you with that. Maybe google might provide an answer. Also, the thorntree of Lonely Planet is being monitored by some experienced Ladakh trekkers.

We use a sawyer filter for water, did you find enough running water? Is the sawyer filter enough?
Answer: I just use iodin tablets. Can’t compare it with a sawyer filter as I have no experience or know how about it. But water is generally clean.

Was it a problem to do wild camping? We prefer to sleep outside rather than homestay. Did you ever experience problems camping outside, police, military, drunk locals ( we've had all that happen which is why we ask )? Did you prefer to camp near villages or away from people?
Answer: camping is the norm, so no problem. But it often comes with a very small charge. Never saw a police officer in Ladakh. No armed military in the mountains (only army engineers where roads are being built). But you might pass some check points on route to/from the trailheads Never encountered drunk people. But sometimes felt a bit uncomfortable when walking past camps of road builders (where I sometimes spotted alcohol consumption, not problematic though).
In general, people are very friendly.

What did you use for bathroom breaks, did you bring paper, or is there materials to collect you can use? I guess leaves aren't in abundance.
Answer: mostly wilderness toilet (I pack out my own toilet paper). Sometimes the local toilet when available.

I would certainly bow to Wim's expertise, but. a couple of thoughts – regular campsites tend to be well spaced out at 8 hours.distance or more, so I would be cautious about that. They are in part determined by the terrain and access to water of course, and grazing for the ponies. There should be no problem in camping between them, other than finding a suitable site. In October on the passes, you might experience snow and even snow storms – we got trapped in a bivy before a pass with food running out, until the weather improved; had been wondering if we were destined to return to spend the winter in Zanskar. If by toilet materials you mean substitutes for paper, no nothing, only water and dirt. There were a series of books by a single mother who wandered with her young child thru the Himalaya, often with a pony or mule I think. Sorry, can't remember her name, but she made out just fine – an adveturous spirit. Many years ago. Consider buying ponies and sell them afterwards, but you would need to know how to care for and catch them each morning, which might involve intensive walking if they decide it's time for a break. They come in three sizes: small, medium, large, as we were informed…! Better to hire a pony man, who takes care of all that. Yak dung is clean fuel but pretty inefficient. As Wim's observes, the river crossings can be a serious matter. I don't know if people have problems with wolves,, but there are often pits to trap them. Sometimes stone huts you can use, the odd cave. Wouldn't put too much faith in a sat phone – who would come and rescue you? Don't get lost… I think I used an MSR XGK multifuel, kero or petrol. Tsampa is good breakfast food.