6 Days in Rocky Mountain NP

[Miles Barger]

I’m going to be in Rocky Mountain NP for work (I’m making the new official NPS map of ROMO) and am sticking around for a backpacking trip. I have 5 full days and nights and the morning of a sixth day. Dates are July 19–24.

Goals:

• Spend a lot of time in alpine meadows and above treeline.
• Spend a lot of time off trail.
• Minimize technical ascents (i.e. Class 4 and above).
• Keep point-to-point daily mileage low (10–18 miles) to allow time for off-trail difficulties, off-route exploring, and photography.
• Finish at a shuttle stop.

Using maps and Lisa Foster’s (awesome) Rocky Mountain NP: The Complete Hiking Guide, I’ve quickly put together a route. However, I don’t know the area at all. Maybe I’m missing something I really should see. Maybe some of these passes won’t go. Maybe there’s a brilliant, aesthetically pleasing line that I’m totally missing. Whatever the case, if you’re familiar with the area and have recommendations, please let me know.

Route:

• Day 1
• Day 2
• Day 3
• Day 4
• Day 5
• Day 6: Hike back out to Bear Lake.

[Gordon Gray]

Sounds like you're stoked and have a good job. I once got to snowboard for free with a client this season. That was cool but not as cool as what you have going on.

[Gary Dunckel]

Miles, that's one aggressive itinerary, and a noble one. What are the dates of your RMNP trip? Hopefully, it will be in late July or August, since there's a bunch of snow up there right now. I'm thinking that only Lisa Foster can help you here–she's the expert on off-trail hiking in that Park.

Mags, you're on deck. You're the only other person I know that might be able to help this guy out.

[Miles Barger]

Yes, dates are pretty important! I'll be backpacking July 19–24.

Snowpack (% Median) as of May 1

• South Platte Basin: 133%
• Arkansas: 99%

Of course, my route is along the Continental Divide, so… splitting the difference, snowpack on the route is likely to be somewhat above average. I can bring an ice ax and light crampons if needed, but, especially since at this point I don't have anyone else going with me, would stay away from anything sketchy. Using Lisa Foster's book, I purposefully stayed away from summits/passes that were noted as requiring axes or technical gear from mid-July.

Gordon: I love my job!

[Paul Magnanti]

Did not look at it super closely, but it looks like a great route.

RMNP is generally kind for off-trail travel. The mountains are relatively gentle and broad vs other mountains.

RMNP off-trail is a wonderful experience. Almost a different park!

[Peter Bakwin]

The route off Pagoda to Chief's Head that you have outlined is hard. Route finding is complex, and exposure is quite fierce. If you find the correct route on the West Ridge there is a 70' section that goes at 5.7 (or 70' rappel). It is possible to find an easier route (lower 5th class) on Pagoda's massive South Face, but it is still very complex and exposed. Hard stuff with a pack, especially if loaded with 5 days of food (plus the required bear canister). Just a head's up.

[Miles Barger]

Peter, thank you so much for the info. You've saved me a lot of pain, as Class 5 anything, pack or not, is beyond me, especially solo.

I've rerouted, cutting across upper Glacier Gorge to Stone Man Pass, taking the northwest ridge to Chiefs Head, descending the western ridge to the saddle between Chiefs Head and Mt Alice, and scooting down to Snowbank Lake.

Stone Man Pass is noted as having steep snow in July, so an ice ax and Kahtoola K10 crampons will be coming along. Smart to have those, anyway, I think.

[Peter Bakwin]

I've done Chief's Head to Stone Man Pass, but I don't remember what it was like, which usually means that it wasn't 5th class. Here's a TR which makes it sound OK:
http://thepeakmind.com/2009/03/19/doublecrown/
I have not ascended Stone Man from Glacier Gorge.
It looks like you have a beautiful & challenging route. Have fun!

[Paul Magnanti]

Snowbank Lake to Chiefs Head is the classic route. I do not recall any technical scrambling. An easy class three at the very hardest. Beautiful terrain up,there.

That is looking towards the flank of chiefs head from snow bank lake.

[Miles Barger]

Peter and Paul, thanks again for the beta. I just mailed my permit request to the ROMO Backcountry Office.

I'm sure ground truth and awesome things I just have to go check out will change my route to some degree. That's half (at least) the fun of these things!

For those of you living in the West/AK/Canada: don't take for granted what a gift it is to be able to open up maps of a huge area and dream up a route based mostly on natural features. I did that for three years in Denali and it opened my mind to an entirely different experience of what trips could be. I'm back East for now and, while I enjoy hiking trails, I miss that freedom. Most natural areas here are constrained and/or confusingly intertwined with private land (and the bushwhacking's on a whole other level), making off-trail route planning so much of a hassle as to nearly kill the fun.

I'll be sure to write a trip report.

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