Petrified Forest National Park in eastern Arizona has two wilderness units encompassing 50,000 acres. Small by western standards. I headed to the southern and much smaller of the two wilderness units, the Rainbow Forest. Its 24 miles south of the visitors center and Park entrance just off I-40, and only covers an area 9 miles tall and a couple wide.
So, Rio and I drove an hour west on the interstate for a two day trip in mid April. A ten minute chat with a ranger for the free back country camping permit and $10 at the Park's gate got us into a geological wonderland and a great place to hike in surprising solitude.
Parking at the required pull off at MM 24 that's otherwise unmarked, I headed SE overland into the trail-less area near 'the flattops.'
After scrambling up the silt-stone capped flat-tops for an overview of the badlands below we descended off marble covered clay slopes to the ridges and arroyos that would lead to the Long Logs and Agate House.
After an hour or so of walking southwest I came across the first petrified logs in the area known as Long Logs on the southern boundary of the wilderness. They ranged in diameter from sequoias to lodgepoles.
Rio with the HMG 2400 laden with water and some huge old wood.
After 5 miles of rambling as the crow flies we were at the rehabbed 1300's pueblo ruin known as Agate House. Walls of petrified wood gave shade to Rio and a respite from the steady 20 mph wind.
5 hours of hiking exploratory loops back north towards the flattops the rest of the afternoon culminated in a search for a wind protected campsite.
A couple clay cones provided the best eddy from the wind and a splendid porch for watching the sun set and rise.
Look close and just beyond the desert pavement for a tarp.
The JRB spinnaker tarp was pinned to the ground and provided a great break from the swirling winds. My ears, esbit IMUSA stove, and dog all appreciated the protection over the logical cowboy bivy.
A breezy night led to a brilliant and calm early morning. Coffee was savored before packing for miles of arroyo walking north.
Miles of exploring the badlands towards the Crystal Forest on the north end of the wilderness took a toll on Rio's pads the next day. The 'desert pavement' is 1/2" rough marbles over smooth clay that covers much of the flat-tops. It was painful to watch him limp through but no real damage done.
24 hours was enough time to explore this small wilderness despite packing food and water for twice that.
I loaded 5 liters and Rio into the car and we joined the rest of the tourist traffic flowing north in spurts. Pulling over every few miles to walk the paved paths of Jasper Forest, Blue Mesa, the Puerco pueblo and so on.
