So it's finally time to replace my ray way tarp with a new one. I can't think of too many changes I would make to the tarp and net tent setup that ray designed but using catenary curved seams is one thing I've considered, but I'm still on the fence. I'm looking for some advice based on the tarps other people have made. Anyone made a similar tarp with beaks using a cat cut? Also, I've seen lots of tarps that use a cat curve to slope the tarp down towards the feet but I can't think of seeing one that had an A frame pitch without being tapered. I'm leaning towards saying that it just isn't going to make enough of a difference to bother and it may even harm the pitch-ability of the tarp. But who knows? Maybe it'll pitch better and save a tiny bit of weight because I would be cutting strips of fabric off the tarp. Thoughts?
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Cat curves on ray way tarp
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but reading this gave me some insight: http://www.backpacking.net/MAKEGEAR/cat-tarp/index.html
In making the cat cut, I guess you start with more acres of fabric so that you have the same coverage after making the cut outs. Someone here knows.
Sloping the tarp down toward the feet Shires-style does one thing for certain. It would make me use a different color for the beak at one end so that I don't have any confusion when unfolding the tarp when I arrive at camp. I don't need that when it's blowin' and rainin'.
I don't like the beak on my RayWay, because I have to stoop lower to get in. If you say it keeps out a bit more of the weather, I'll believe you, b/c I've only used it in rain one night when the rain came down against the sides, not the end. When I have to make another, I may add a zipper in the middle of the beak so I don't have to stoop. Why wait–I may even modify my Rayway tarp beaks next.
I also disdain the short 16" vertical zipper on the net tent (maybe the zipper on yours is longer) and the zipper pulls having a tab on only one side. extremely little weight savings for lower convenience.
I agree with what you said Jeff. I wasn't planning to make the panels any bigger to begin with. I figured I would just use a gentle cat cut with a 2 or 3 inch deflection. I don't think that'll make a huge difference to the coverage.
I also don't like the beaks when the tarp is pitched really low but when it's pitched at a normal hight I don't mind stooping a bit. Also, I figure that if it didn't have beaks I'd have to pitch the whole tarp lower to get the same coverage so I'd rather stoop but have more head room. They definitely help with weather when the wind is coming from the wrong direction. I've had a couple rough nights under the tarp when I appreciated them. I've thought about adding a zipper but just don't think it's worth it for me.
I didn't actually use the zipper kit that ray sells for the net tent. I bought mine when that wasn't an option and added a 30 inch zipper after the first trip. That flap closure is a ridiculous idea. So mine has a flap at the bottom and a vertical zipper. I also made the peak 6 inches higher for more headroom. I doubt those two changes made much of a difference in weight but they make the net tent much more livable. I plan to use a D shaped door for the next net tent.
I did this on a Ray Way tarp. I believe I put in a 1.5" drop on the ridgeline. After trying it out I decided that it was not worth it because of the loss of headroom when you use the side lifters. The fabric tend to stay fairly tight anyways when using the side lifters, so there is not much benefit to using a cat cut. I did save about 1 ounce of material though.
Mark
Thanks Mark. I wonder if putting cat curves on the edges would make a difference. It wouldn't change the coverage that much but it might make it pitch a little tighter. I'm really leaning towards not bothering though. Especially based in your comment.
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