DIY camera slider?

Aren't you going to need to use TWO tripods, one to hold up each end of the slider?

It's either that or else have your gaffers support it by hand.

–B.G.–

Dude in video using a drawer slide. Works well, but as you say, extremely heavy. If fabricating an UL version, I'd consider UHMW polyethylene as a "carriage." Perhaps as simple as drilling a hole through a block of UHMW–essentially making a ring of UHMW that will fit over your pole. Then attach the camera beneath it with two lines to keep it facing the correct direction. Can you just hang your camera upside down, suspended from the UHMW block via lines to an eye screw that fits the (assumed) 1/4 x 20 thread in the bottom of the camera? The block would slide along your very smooth (possibly sanded smooth?) slanted hiking staff.

How does the camera move on the slider? gravity and friction? or do you move it by hand?

I've seen something like that that has electrical motor to move slowly and smoothly, not light

Pedco ultra pod http://www.gunholstersunlimited.com/indrev-pedco-ultra-pod-1-blk.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=CKrii7fHi74CFciGfgodmy0AGw for $10 1.75 ounces

It has a velcro strip so you can attach it to a pole

Won't give you the linear action of a slider though

"do you move it by hand?"

Yes. The track simply gives you a smooth surface to move over.

–B.G.–

If the UHMW block works, you should be able to start and stop the slide by adjusting the pole to a steeper and then more shallow angle. I'm assuming you're holding the high end of the pole and resting the low end on a log or something. Hold it too steep all the way, and the camera will smack into the log or ground.

That's one of the many lovely functions of having a wife–they're great at holding the other ends of things. She can catch the camera for a soft landing, too.

Any idea on how I would slide this slider block ring over my pole?
One end has a grip, the other has a little flange thing that holds this tip.

Maybe make the block more like a hook?

Hook would work. Probably even lighter weight options. The only portion of the carriage that needs the UHMW is the part that touches the pole.

Hey, what if you were to thread several teflon washers onto a loop of cord? Knots on either side of the washers, to keep the washers centered. Would that slide down the pole? Might be a low-cost proof-of-concept. Might be your solution, too, who knows.

Wait. I have seen teflon "spacers" in the drawers at HD, those would likely work better than washers. Lower profile and wider.

In order to keep the camera oriented in the direction you want, you'll have to have two cords hanging down from the pole, possibly two carriages, cords terminating in an angle, meeting at your camera. And the carriages would have to be separated, maybe by a bicycle spoke. Otherwise the camera will spin, I think.

If you only want one extension projecting downward from the carriage, it would need to be rigid. And I'm thinking rigid = weight. Although a throughly aerated piece of aluminum bar stock might do the trick…a stay from your pack?

Meh, every time I think about that camera rotating, I talk myself out of a solution that uses cords that could twist.

I don't have a full idea on this. I'm still thinking. I can visualize using something like this in the field.

If you wanted something too simple, just figure out how to attach the camera on the end of a pendulum and let it swing down. The trick would be in keeping the camera pointed at the subject. For a video clip, just play it backwards, and then the camera view would seem to be elevating (which I think is desired).

It would be too easy to suspend the pendulum from an overhead tree branch. You could constrain the orientation of the camera a bit by using two pendulums side-by-side and separated by a short distance.

Needs more thought.

–B.G.–

.

I've seen shower curtain hooks with "ball bearings" on them. Better yet to replace the bearings with teflon spacers. Would have to figure out a way to attach the curtain hook to the eye hook so it didn't swivel all over the place. Tape?

Bolster, I see your sketch.

Imagine that you have two of these curtain rods in parallel. Fix the slider on one to the slider on the second one with rigid hardware down to the camera. That way, the camera shouldn't be wiggling much, just sliding straight. Then attach some fishing line over something at the high end and attach to the rigid hardware, and use the fishing line to lower the entire sliding weight.

Oh. I have some carbon fiber tubing, and it might make a stiff but lightweight substitute for a curtain rod.

The union will complain unless you have at least one union gaffer to hold this up.

–B.G.–

Two in parallel would certainly have advantages. If two hooks running on two parallel poles, you'd be able to vary speed of descent by spreading the poles apart to slow (a wedging action), or bringing them together to speed up.

I made one using 80/20 aluminum slotted bar stock. You could also use lightweight aluminum square tubing. HDPE would make a good antifriction material on tubing. The sliding part doesn't have to be a perfect fit as long as it doesn't chatter.

William, what kind of weight did you end up with? How long is it?

–B.G.–

Definitely would like to see a pic and specs