Chamonix

Laurens,

There are a lot of helicopters, for all sorts of reasons, I guess. While in the Italian portion of the walk they were around all the time; it was hard to get away from the sound of them all day. A lot of what they did was supply the gites and refugios with food and supplies, but I'm sure they were also keeping an eye out on walkers. Later in the evenings they usually disappeared though and I don't think it was much problem to just set up your tent in a secluded spot. The area at the base of the slope on which Refugio Elisabeta sits, a big river basin, is one great spot for setting up your tent, and quite a few people did it. Some of the refugios frowned on wild camping, but at Refugio Elena, since the beds were full, I just asked and they let me camp out back (amidst the cow patties, unfortunately). In most cases I don't think you have anything to worry about. Just be discreet.

May, hmmm. I haven't been there at that time, but since I got snow in August I would imagine May to be pretty cold, possibly even snowbound in some places. If you stayed low and skirted the high passes it might be passable, though. Anyone else know? Roger? Jeroen? Carlos?

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I hiked the TMB last year and started in Champex on July 16th in clockwise direction. I saw or heard only a few helicopters in Italy, near Courmayeur, in the middle of the day.

But around Chamonix I saw many, many helicopters, even at dusk in the late evening. But I was under my tarp in a forest in the valley, because of two consecutive days of rain, and the Grand Balcon was fully in the clouds. So no worries for me.

But I met quite a few people camping by the huts or higher up, if the weather was good.

CW or CCW – I went clockwise. So I met people very often, so I had the feeling, that there were many people. Next time I would do it CW, so I bypass some people, but have not the crowds coming against me. But I think at the end of June the TMB is still comparatively quiet.

hikingharry

Not that I have that much experience with the French Alps, but the more with the Austrian Alps, where May is late season skitouring time in the high mountains.

So I think the end of May is a little bit to early to hike the complete TMB. But you could maybe hike some parts of it. You could google some webcams from the area to get an impression how much snow is there.

Cheers hikingharry

> since I got snow in August I would imagine May to be pretty cold, possibly even snowbound in some places.
Variable, VERY variable, from year to year. You can't predict.

We had snow on the Col du Bonhomme in August, and could not traverse the Crete des Gites. OK, we couldn't even see it! Other passes were all OK.

We started in the Pyrenees in May (before we came anywhere near the GR5), and had to take a different route from the one we had hoped. The passes were completely blocked by snow, and we were UL-equipped for summer.

Better take some warm clothing …

cheers

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> What possibilities does one have on this trail of buying food?
The FFRP TMB guide should list all the places you can buy food.
Les Houches – big supermarket
Les Contamines – supermarket
Les Chapieux – small shop, limited
Courmeyer – big supermarket
Ferret – supermarket
Champex – supermarket
Col de Balme – do NOT stop here!!!!!

Cheers
Roger

"Col de Balme – do NOT stop here!!!!!"
I guess we were not the only ones to have a bad experience with the host :-)

Hah haaaaah! I had the misfortune of stepping into the Col de la Balme refugio during a lunch break to ask if there was a toilet I could use… and unhappily stepped right into the path of the infamous Monster Lady who runs the place! She said in French quote, "What is it with you stupid hikers? Can't you all just hold it in until you get off the "#$%%&%$! mountain?" And with that she stomped away barking at other people milling about in the refugio. Needless to say I found I didn't have to go to the toilet any more!

I camped at Le Peuty just outside Trient the day before. You can buy supplies in the small town of Trient. The owner of the campsite in Le Peuty was the mayor of Trient and he personally came out in the pouring rain to check up on me and to bring me a load of firewood.

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