Wild Camping in the US – advice for an Englishman, please!

I rented a car in Austin this February and drove to Big Bend. I had about a week as well. The drive is about 8 hours in total, but there are some convenient stops on the way, like Junction and Fort Stockton. Also, you can drive through the Hill Country and stop in Johnson City and Fredericksburg (I stopped at LBJ's home in Johnson City as I'd just finished the four Caro books on him and was part of the reason why I planned the trip like I did – highly recommended to anyone, but not as highly recommended as Caro's biography of Robert Moses!).

In my weeklong trip I was able to do an extended solo Outer Mountain Loop hike, a separate hike to the mule ears, smokey creak junction and lots of other small hikes in the park. I didn't have a high clearance vehicle, so I missed out on Pine Canyon, which is one I hope to do in the future. It was all amazing!!! When not on the trail, I car camped at Paint Gap – which I really enjoyed.

Not 100% sure it will work, but here's a link to some of my pictures from the trip:

https://plus.google.com/photos/100988958387275381942/albums/5983411066188795409?authkey=CKzLueT-17eDgAE

Anyways, Guadalupe sounds great too. I hope to get out there next, but I agree that El Paso is a much better starting point for that trip. I also wanted to make the trip work with Amtrak at first, but it just seemed like too many hoops.

One side note, I went to an REI in Austin before heading out and I would suggest having a good set of printed directions or a GPS. Around Austin, stores are often set back from the road in a way that, for me, made them difficult to see. The signage is relatively small. I can see why it's a nice thing, but it makes it hard for the first time driver there.

Also: you'll see if you drive through the Hill Country, that most of the land is fenced-off rangeland – beautiful, reminded me of Central Spain, but not great for secret camping… There are some nice state parks in the area though, on the llanes and pedernales rivers.

Glad you enjoyed your visit to the hill country. Next time you're in the area, check out Enchanted Rock or Pedernales Falls. Both areas have some great day hikes and unique hill country geology. X2 on Austin being hard to navigate; I still get lost every time I go into town!

nm

Just a note to those unfamiliar with the "smaller" Texas cities. They've grown up so make sure your travel plans avoid the morning and evening commutes. El Paso just surpassed Detroit in terms of legal population, and Interstate highway 10 backs up at 3 PM (Mountain). Also Austin's commute problems are legendary. especially Interstate 35 but other highways too.

Texas is so large, it spans 2 time zones btw (Central and Mountain) , so plan according if renting a car, catching a bus/train.

Maybe this goes without saying, but if you do go to south Texas bring your passport and other ID papers everywhere, because you are very likely to get checked. I went to Big Bend with my then postdoctoral fellow and his family (from Poland) and we assumed that since he was employed in the US and we would be inside the US the whole time they would not be necessary. Unfortunately, if you are anywhere near the border and you don't have full ID they will detain you on the spot until they get proof. I suppose it may sound extreme to carry your passport on a backpacking trip, but highly recommended just in case.

In our case the accepeted a call to the University where we worked to verify his employment and identity. If we had gone through that checkpoint after business hours I'm sure they would have been detained overnight.

Thanks, I will. I did get to Pedernales falls and it was well worth the detour. I also loved all the peach orchards and wineries – it seemed strange to me at first, in the middle of Texas, but seems like a really interesting blend of the land and the people that settled there (like the German immigrants).

Not sure about other parts of the US but am familiar with "the borderlands" of southern AZ, CA, NM, and far west TX.

Unless you have a US drivers license and accent, also bring your papers if traveling on Interstate 10 or US Highway 70 through El Paso or Las Cruces. Through international treaty from the Kennedy days (1963 – the Chamazal dispute and resulting treaty … http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamizal_National_Memorial), there's a ring of border patrol checkpoints on the outskirts of those two cities. Mexican citizens can shop in those US cities (and vice versa) but cannot travel any further. The stations are there to really check their passports (wealthy Mexicans can afford their own Mexican visas but not the less wealthy), … but the checkpoint will check other nationalities too, … plus if there's anything out of the ordinary, even questioning US citizens. If you are US they just ask you and wave you through, though there's normally a state trooper if they suspect one is breaking driving laws.

I also recall a Border Patrol checkpoint somewhere around the Big Bend's Presidio County too, but it's been several years.

Also when are you thinking of traveling? Credit to Mitch Kilby for the following from a recent thread in "General Backpacking":

"Just to comment – the name of the new trail in Austin will be the Violet Crown Trail. Supposed to be 30 miles and stretch into Hays County. The city also just developed an 8 mile paved trail on the east side called the Southern Walnut Creek Trail. It's not too bad. In downtown Austin, we also have the Barton Creek greenbelt (which the Violet Crown will connect too) which is about 16 miles round trip and longer if you add in the connecting shoal creek greenbelt and the town lake green belt. This is great if you just want to hike on a Saturday or weekday evening after work. Lots of rock climbing, mountain biking and swimming (in the springtime generally) on this trail too.

For local backpacking I always like the Goodwater Trail in Georgetown [neighbors northern Austin] which is a good one night trip. " statement in italics mine.

Maybe they will have the Violet Crown trail finished by the time of your trip? There's also a good music and bar scene in Austin to enjoy esp during the weekend.

The United States has a different concept of private property. The rules aren't really that complicated. If you step onto private property without permission from the owner you are trespassing (a crime).
I hear there are some mountains in New Mexico, could be an option if you don't mind driving.

http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/state-parks/nearby/all-parks

I grew up west of Austin and have been to nearly all of the places you could go. I'd hook you up on family land if I still lived in the area.

I'd suggest you check out the state parks first as an option. They are smaller and each could be done in a day. Most if not all will have camping for a small fee. Most are drive in sites, but some are walk in. Water is already in short supply.

You could couple visiting state parks with visits to San Antonio (Alamo and Riverwalk), Fredericksburg (German food and beer with a touch of Texas), and local wineries and historical sites. You could visit the highland lakes.

If you really want more backpacking and camping, then you have to head west. Forget the train. Enjoy the drive out there. Half of it is through interesting landscape (half is boring). I like Big Bend better. Getting up in the basin to avoid heat is nice.

If you have any specific questions let me know.

Wow – all these complicated restrictions make me even more admiring of Scotland's (and Scandinavia's) Right To Roam policy.

+1000

"I suppose it may sound extreme to carry your passport on a backpacking trip, but highly recommended just in case."

Yeah that's smart weight to carry. USBP has the right to stop someone if they have reasonable suspicion to believe they're not a US Citizen regardless of proximity to the border. You'll obviously have a greater chance of encountering a Patrol Agent closer to the border but they have some stations fairly deep into the interior. Having your PP helps to keep that conversation short, sweet and from going sideways on you.

I understand there are regional differences throughout the U.S. but Amtrak is a far cry from the trains I experienced through much of Europe. Much of this has to do with the issue that most of the tracks are privately owned so Amtrak will get bumped in line if cargo needs the right of way. It's mostly an enjoyable way to travel but we've had trains arrive several hours late. No surprise in Germany, I could set my watch to the train. Our interstate system is easy to navigate on so I'd stick with the rental car if Amtrak's inability to keep on schedule would be a problem for you. It is possible that things are much different for Amtrak in Texas than in Washington State too (and I hope so).

Hopefully the responses you've received here haven't been too discouraging. I've yet to see Austin but I thought San Antonio was a wonderful town to visit and would love to go back some day. My Father in law lives in between the two so I hope to catch Austin the next time I'm in the area. I'm sure you've gathered by now that it's famous for music so I'd save some time for that if you enjoy live music. Don’t forget to bring some cholesterol medication and grab a Po’ Boy sandwich and some of their BBQ too. Both tend to be decadent.

Alastair, you're probably clued in enough to not need this, but every once in while I've encountered a European planning to, say, fly into LA, grab lunch in Vegas, hike in the Grand Canyon that afternoon, and spend the night in New Orleans. So for reference:

But I can't leave it that, because, as we Alaskans like to point out, "Texans are nice and all, but if they don't stop talking about how big things are in Texas, we're going to split Alaska in two and then they'll be the THIRD largest state."

David, I was going to mention something like that – LOL. If you rent a car in Austin then it is more or less full day's drives to get to Big Bend – almost 500 miles. Prague to Paris, but without the point to point rail. More and slower if you take the "scenic route" though Del Rio. In Texas this does amount to the "local area", but I don't imagine that classification could be applied anywhere in Europe to 500 miles distance.

I lived in Austin and made the trip a few times. It is definitely worth it, just need to keep it in mind. Very hard to get to the park via public transportation, and Amtrack will be slower AND more expensive if paired with a rental car – another big difference with Europe, there is no way in this country to do point-to-point rail travel.

That said, if you have the time, and want to break things up there is a pretty good half way point with legal drive in campground nearby – Seminole Canyon. There is a very interesting archeological site with VERY early native American cliff paintings dating back almost to the time of the Lascaux cave paintings in France. This is if you take the slower scenic route and break thing up. This is not to mention the nearby Judge Roy Bean museum ("Hangingest Judge in the West"). If you have watched a lot of westerns then that might be of some interest in a campy sort of way. Ahem…but we adventurers don't go in for that sort of tourist pablum of course.

"But I can't leave it that, because, as we Alaskans like to point out, "Texans are nice and all, but if they don't stop talking about how big things are in Texas, we're going to split Alaska in two and then they'll be the THIRD largest "

David,

Just wait. Once global warming starts up again and all the ice melts, Alaska will be the 2nd largest state…

Marko,

Amtrack presents its own issues for Europeans or even New Englanders. I had friends take the train out of Seattle at 6 o clock, arriving Oakland at 6 o clock. They figured a 12-hour trip (cause it was a long way). Nope. A 24-hour trip. To cover a tiny fraction of the lower 48.

Also, don't miss your train. There's not another one along in a hour. There's not another one along until tomorrow.

As much as I drive, I still find there is an aspect to "conditioning" for a long drive akin to "I've been hiking a mile every day" not meaning "I'm ready to hike 40 miles in a day". 10- to 16-hour days behind the wheel can be exhausting for someone not used to it – mentally more than physically. Tunes help. Getting out and walking a bit helps. But slows you down.

David, definitely! There are the German trains, and then there are the Italian trains that are always late, then there is 1000 feet of shit, and at the bottom of that are all the Amtrak trains that don't run on the east coast corridor between Boston and DC. Really only good if riding on the train is your actual GOAL and you don't have a firm timetable. On the other hand you can rent a car in this country pretty cheaply by comparison, and the gas is cheaper in Texas.

Surprised no one has mentioned Sam Houston National Forest. From Austin, it's about a 3 hour drive but if you check the first link out below you can see a map of the Lone Star Trail. The second link is to the National Forest website for Sam Houston National Forest. In summary,

"The 128-mile Lone Star Hiking Trail, a portion of which has gained National Recreation Trail status, winds through the Sam Houston National Forest. The trail, marked with two-inch by four-inch aluminum markers to guide hikers, has recreation areas available at three different points. Except during deer hunting season when camping is restricted to designated camps, primitive camping is allowed off the trail. Potable water is available at Double Lake and Stubblefield recreation areas."

http://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5209240.pdf

http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/texas/about-forest/districts/?cid=fswdev3_008443

I have backpacked several sections of the trail. It's a very thick forest and so visibility is limited to the trees except for the occasional clearing. No elevation gain or loss so the hiking is very easy.

I absolutely love this website, guys.
What a treasure trove of information.
Thank you!
(Thank y'all…)

Hey,

There are 2 national parks in Texas….way out west. You can do dispersed camping in some parts of Big Bend NP…but not in the mountains.

There are a number of state parks. Go to the Texas state park website and take a gander.

In central Texas I recommend looking into the Enchanted Rock State park. It has primitive campsites that only cost $5 a nite.

There are also 700,000 acres of (someone mentioned Sam Houston ) under the US Forestry service where you can disperse camp in eastern and northern sections of Texas. Google national forests in Texas.

I would not recommend dispersed camping on private land without permission in Texas. However, if you ask and tell them you are international traveler who likes to camp out, you most likely would get permission. Most people are very hospitable….they just want to know who is on their land. But, at the same time, it might be hard to find out who to ask.

LOL…it is true that you might be met by someone with a weapon if you just set up. I was at my sister's house (she lives out in the country) and a large truck came up in the driveway very late one evening. My brother in law grabbed his weapon and went outside. I was shocked. But my sister said that they get worried because they are so far from help.

Edit: read above posts..and realized that a lot of my info is already covered. Oops.

>"(Thank y'all…)"

You may already know this, but "y'all" is singular. And plural.

In the states ya'll is generally a dead give away you are from the south. Kids in northern states and California always think I'm funny when I say that. Once I was unloading a bus full of kids at an outdoor center in California. I said something along the lines of "Okay ya'll come over here." This little 6th grade girl looked up at me all wide eyed and said "Are you a cowboy?" I guess the only time she'd heard someone talk like that was in Western movies.

We need a true southern good ol' boy to help us with this. My understanding is that "y'all" is seldom used as singular, but almost always is plural. 2-4 people–Y'all; a room full of people–All y'all. My favorite is the plural possessive–"All y'all's." You gotta love those apostrophes.

Gary has it. Ya'll is rarely singular, in fact, I can't think of when it is used in a singular form off the top of my head. I could list 100 other similar "southernisms".

Ryan – local TN redneck

Indeed, all ya'll is the plural at least for large groups. All my family is from Tenn. and Ark.

This may be the only time I am smarter than David Thomas about something. "Y'all" is definitely plural. I've done 48 years of testing. I've got a pretty high degree of certainty on this one.