Bug tent Questions

"First, is there any reason I shouldn't use of those outdoor products tarps from walmart to make the floor? It's PU coated nylon, so I figured it should work fine."
Well, this IS backpackinglight. The tarps I find at wally world are heavy. Otherwise, yes, they can be used. Typically they are the same as cheaper tents. The woven ones will work too, paying extra attention to the hemming.

I think Yama Mountain Gear makes a similar set up, check their site.

Yes, anything that interfeers with air flow will alter ventilation. It depends on how well it is designed, perhaps how much wind you are getting. Important? likely not with a tarp and mesh tent.

I would consider the interface between the floor and the netting in a little more detail.

What you probably want to do is make the floor come up 6-8" to form a "bathtub," this will keep running water out of the net tent.

I you are worried about splash and wind driven rain from the front and rear of the tent you could make this bathtub taller. Maybe 18-24" tall. This seems like a nice compromise between ventilation and protection.

You could think about adding a zippered portion at the top so there could be a waterproof fabric over top of netting…. best of both worlds but more complicated to make and heavier.

You may also want to pay some attention to how the net tent is going to attach…. are you going to attach it to the rideline, to the peak, or to a grosgrain loop on the tarp itself? Are the corners going to attach to their own stakes, to the tie outs, or to the tarp's stakes?

Anthony

Hmm, if you set back the waterproof end walls a few inches from the ends of the tarp, you can leave a gap between tarp & the end walls of an inch or more. You can use netting to bridge the gap or attach to loops on the tarp. You'll have protection in all but horizontal, driving rain and better ventilation than no gap.

I'd consider adding a vertical closure to the end walls, using either Velcro or a zipper. The weight of either won't penalize you much for the gained convenience. #3 zipper tape and tabs don't weigh much.

Also, using some elastic material at the bottom of the end walls may improve esthetics in a variety of pitches.

I like end walls on a flat tarp more than a tarp with beaks. The beaks limit access in any weather, unless the beaks have vertical closures as I proposed for your end walls.

Good luck. hope to see pictures when you finish. or a url for a youtube clip

James mentioned Yama Mountain Gear.
They have a great MYOG tutorial for a bug-net inner tent on their website:
Bug Net 1.25
There is a step-by-step guide plus patterns and lots of tips and techniques from professional tent makers – worth a look!
This is for a stand-alone bug tent that you’d pitch under your flat tarp.
I gather suggestions above are more for a tarp integrated bug netting – more of a “tarp tent” setup I’m assuming…

Thanks for the input everyone!

I've decided to go in a slightly different direction than I originally planned. I decided I want to be able to use the net with my hammock setup as well as on the ground, so I had to make some changes, but I'm really happy with the design I've arrived at.

It's still going to be a basic A-frame shape, but instead of sewing in the bathtub floor, I'm going to leave the floor open (think SMD Wild Oasis)and put shock cord around the bottom opening. Then, I'll make a separate bathtub floor, which the net can be cinched into/around using the shock cord. If I don't expect rain, I'll leave the tub at home and just use my foam pad as the floor. I think I've settled on making the end walls about 2/3 SilNy for weather protection, with a waterproof J-shaped zipper.

To enable hammock use, I'll make a Velcro slit in both end walls to allow my suspension to go through, and cinch the cord tighter to be snug around the bottom of the hammock. Other than that it should be the same as pitching it on the ground.

James, you're right about the weight. I thought I was willing to take the weight penalty in order to have fabric I wouldn't feel nervous about messing up, but then I checked some prices and realized could get all the silnylon I need for cheaper than that tarp is anyway. And good call on that YMG tent, it's almost exactly what I was thinking originally.

Anthony, I saw what you said about the netting to floor interface, and just decided to make it a non-issue haha. With the separate bathtub floor, all I have to do is tuck/cinch the netting around the floor. As far as rain splash, the SilNy end walls should handle that. I plan to attach it to the lines/stakes I rig my tarp from, probably using some Prusik knots.

Jeffrey, there will probably be at least 1.5 feet between the end of the tarp and the start of the net tent, so I am planning on putting some good clearance between the two unless I get caught in some crazy weather. As far as adding 'vertical closure' to the end walls, do you mean the zipper to get in? Not trying to be funny here, but is there another way to get into a tent like this? And I agree about walls vs beaks. I understand beaks if your tarp is you entire shelter, but if you use an inner, walls are the way to go. I'll try to take some good photos for you.

I was thinking faster than I could type, Miles.

Your J configured zipper will work better than a vertical zipper, because it will create a flap permitting you to enter without disrupting the shape of the net tent. A straight zipper works for beaks because the bottom margins are free to swing, without hindering access.

As an aside, for the zipper, I suggest two sliders with double pulls. That adds convenience for a minor weight penalty.

Have fun with this project!