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Extra gear you bring for alpine climbing

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S Long BPL Member
PostedApr 7, 2014 at 4:07 pm

I love to backpack. I also love to climb. These two loves come together with alpine climbing. I know there are people on this board who do a fair amount of alpine climbing and I was curious what gear they brought and liked that in addition to (or instead of) the typical ultralight backpacking gear. In a very real way it is almost required to be very light in your backpacking setup in order to bring the extra climbing gear. I will start with some of my choices. Half ropes are great because it is easy to split up the weight among more people and it is more versatile (longer rappels possible and almost as fast with three-man rope teams as with two). Omega Pacific Link cams are great because they cover a huge range of crack sizes so you can get by with a smaller rack. Additionally, careful planning of a route gives you an idea what kind of rack you need and what you can leave behind. What else do you have?

PostedApr 7, 2014 at 5:14 pm

More double length slings than usual. Usually 4-5 depending on the route. Alpine rock routes tend to wander a lot and also tend to have lots of opportunities for slung blocks and horns. The extra slings are much lighter substitute for extra cams.

Also, a brighter headlamp. Trying to climb or routefind with an e-lite sucks. Been there, done that.

If you can get away with it, climb in your approach shoes and don't pack climbing shoes. Depends of course on the difficulty of the route.

The 60 meter, 9.2mm rope I got a few years ago (Sterling Nano) has proven to be a good investment.

Other than that, I mostly just go as minimal as possible with the backpacking gear. The backpack still usually ends up pretty heavy.

Jeff Jeff BPL Member
PostedApr 7, 2014 at 5:38 pm

I backpack with a ULA Conduit which is horrible for climbing, so I do have a different pack for climbing. I also ditch the tarp for a bivy unless I know I can tarp down low in the trees (rare). Other than that, I take the usual backpacking load (not much at all) and just add the usual climbing gear.

PostedApr 7, 2014 at 7:12 pm

"More double length slings than usual. Usually 4-5 depending on the route. Alpine rock routes tend to wander a lot and also tend to have lots of opportunities for slung blocks and horns. The extra slings are much lighter substitute for extra cams."

We used to carry 10-12' of 3/4" webbing for threading thru small openings and then reweaving an overhand knot to fashion a sling tailored to the situation, typically for rappelling, but also in other situations. We would cut off the remainder, if any, and often have enough left over for another sling later if necessary. Cheaper than commercial slings if you have to leave something behind.

James holden BPL Member
PostedApr 7, 2014 at 7:37 pm

Works in wet, icy, dirty cracks … Fairly light and works as both cams and nuts

And if u have to bail its cheaper than cams

;)

Art … BPL Member
PostedApr 8, 2014 at 8:03 am

if its an overnight trip :
I bring a real tent.
I'm not a tarp person generally anyways, but especially not in an alpine setting.
I bring 2 packs, a backpack and a smaller summit pack.

I do not alter my standard rack to bring more passive gear, I have a set of the most light weight cams on the market so rack stays the same.
yes a few more long slings … of the homemade knotted variety not of the sewn commercial variety.
I bring slightly smaller ultra light biners which I do not generally use for other climbing.
I do not bring a smaller rack just to cut weight, safety is safety and I bring the same size rack I would normally use for the grade.

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