MYOG shoulder straps

You might want to clarify what you mean. Most shoulder straps are adjustable for length by a sliding buckle in the bottom front. A very few are adjustable for the horizontal separation on a frame. If you get them set apart too widely for your shoulders, then they will be completely dependent on a sternum strap, just to keep them on your shoulders.

–B.G.–

These are the straps I'm trying to make. There is Velcro you can see at the bottom of the strap. There is also webbing that goes behind the strap higher up. Not sure how it attaches. Don't need a huge adjustment just maybe a inch up or down to dial in the fit. Not sure how they fit because there not attached to the pack like I've done before. They also look like they rely on the load lifters for fit. Worst case is I make um wrong. But there removeable so I can make another pair.Thanks to Billy Goat for the pictures.

Great work, Darren! You are on a roll!

I'm making a guess here but I think those would be held in place by a MOLLE or PALS type system. A few rows of PALS could be sewn to the back panel and a webbing attachment device could be sewn to the strap. The strap could then be moved up or down the ladder of PALS to accommodate different user heights. An in depth set of photos of how MOLLE works can be found at the GORUCK site (not specific to your needs but details the MOLLE system nicely.

http://news.goruck.com/field-pockets/attaching-field-pockets-explained/

Thanks for comments and input. Did a small sketch in the car after looking at the goruck link you gave me Sam. This might work. Still needs refining but I have a start. Sam I was thinking you might have something else in mind especially for the back of the shoulder strap. Any help with methods for attaching this style of straps to the back panel so that they adjust would be great. God Blesspanelstrap

Sorry I can't help work out the harness system on that pack, but I'd sure like to know who made it?
Looks like very nice work…

Here's the link to the photo he referenced.

http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=52274

The shoulder straps and the rest of the pack are cut out and ready for dye. I should have used a hot knife. I have a soldering iorn that might work. I've got a lot of edges to seal up. Live and learn. God Bless.

Soldering iron works good, i got a big station that I use. I grinded one tip down to look more like a flat screwdriver, use it on everything these days, especially webbing is great, the end turns out much nicer than if you first cut it and then seal it with a lighter. Thin fabric can be a bit harder than with a rotary cutter if the tip isnt warm enough, that's why i use the big station where i can controll the heat better.

Thanks edvin, going to try the soldering iorn on the next one. I'm also going to dye the fabric first and then cut. Less edges to unravel during the dyeing process. Dyeing is done. I like it. Now back to attaching the straps to the back panel so they are adjustable. Work in progress.

This is one way to do it. Materials used;
3/8" grosgrain
2" hook & loop
One wrap Velcro ( sticks to itself)
1 1/2" pieces for the grosgrain.
8" pieces for the hook & loop.
6" piece for the one wrap Velcro.
The brown fabric represents the back panel.
The white fabric represents the back of the shoulder strap.weave the one wrap through the horizontal webbing.OneTWOTHREEAttach one wrap to loop.ONEDone attaching strap. Now to do it on the real strap. The MOLLE system paired with the hook & loop seems to do the trick. Thanks to all. God Bless.