pot-bottom windscreen

Try a strip of aluminum flashing. 2.5 inches wide. Accordian fold back and forth 0.5 inch. #18 galvanized wire around the top to provide enough pressure to keep it on and transfer heat:

I measure 10% reduction in fuel use compared to a non heat exchanger windscreen.

I kind of copied a MSR product, which was heavier, but I don't think they make it anymore

Trail designs sells strips of Al for windscreens.

http://www.traildesigns.com/accessories/classic-windscreen

There's some titanium ones out there, too, but I can't remember who sells them.

aluminum flashing from big box home improvement store works

maybe $10 for a lifetime's worth of experiments

mine weighs 1.3 ounces including the wire

Jerry,
Your accordion like folds appear perfectly uniform ( please excuse the redundancy) and I don't have the ability to duplicate the folds with the uniformity that you have displayed. Any tips on how to do it? I have tried with aluminum foil to make a jetboil type and the finished product is pretty pathetic. Although I too have a lifetime supply of flashing the thickness precludes the fashioning of an effective screen with the finished appearance of yours. That is why I have given up on making my own to look for a manufactured one.

Cut the piece of aluminum to the right size – like 2.5 inches wide. You can have it long and trim later. 23 inches for my 900 ml Ti pot.

Mark lines on the aluminum where you want to fold. 0.5 inch from end for the interlocking closure. Then gap of 2 inches so hot air doesn't flow and heat handle. Then every 0.5 inches. 36 for mine. Then 2 inch gap. then 0.5 inch to where the end is where you can cut it.

Then, just fold over a sharp edged block or table. Flashing folds pretty easy. If you can fold it even just 45 degrees that's enough. Fold back and forth to make accordian.

A "break" would be better if you have access to one. I used one once. Sheet metal working shop.

Drill 4 pairs of holes for the wire to go through.

Then just fold some more by hand to get everything even and properly fit around pot.

Then feed through the wire, bend one end, figure where the other end should be bent and cut off excess.

Actually, just the length of the wire is critical, the flashing can be a little longer or shorter and the width of the accordian folds will be slightly different. You want it to be a tight fit, slightly springing the aluminum against pot, for better thermal contact, and so it doesn't fall off when it gets hot. My previous version did this occasionally.

" A "break" would be better if you have access to one. "

A sheet metal brake would be even better.

–B.G.–

I had a 50% chance of spelling correctly : )

I copied Jerry's idea for my k-mart grease pot, making it short enough to fit inside. I can adjust the amount it reaches below the bottom of the pot to help keep the fuel canister warm when it's cold out. Definitely helps with fuel consumption and boil time. My bends aren't as consistent as Jerry's but it works great anyway.

My previous version was sloppy. Also not enough air flow – not as many channels.

Next version I made more carefully. Didn't want to be embarrased when posting picture : )

This isn't exactly what you are looking for, but Optimus introduced a clip on windshield that works with every gas canister according to EN417 and pots with max. diameter 13 cm (5 in).

http://www.optimusstoves.com/seen/optimus-products/products/katadynshopconnect/optimus-accessories/optimus-clip-on-windschutz/