Extra line used when using line locks?

If I'm reading this correctly, then I leave the line on the shelter, at least on the tie out points I always use. I don't like to fiddle with putting the lines on or taking them off. I'm going to carry the guylines and linelocs any way, if they're attached to the shelter I won't lose them. And I know I would. On the other hand Gen at Yama Mountain Gear has a great way to take linelocs on and off using a smaller loop of cord to attach the lineloc to the shelter. It is very easy to do.

http://www.yamamountaingear.com/tie-outs/

When you erect your shelter, you push a stake into the ground, hook the guyline end over it, and then tighten up the guyline … at the line lock (shelter end). So, when you take the shelter down, you might want to leave the guyline extended to maximum and pack it. That way, the next time you erect it, the line is already extended and ready.

The opposite way is not foolproof to me. If you left the guylines with both parts split over the line lock, then you might start to erect it again and accidentally grab the wrong part of the guyline to stretch to the stake. That would get bad results.

–B.G.–

Hopefully I'm answering the question you were asking :)

I have always installed linelocks on a guy that is the maximum length I think I will need…usually this is the stock (nonadjustable) guy length. My reason for installing linelocks is so I can easily reposition stakes for uneven ground, obstacles, hidden rocks/roots, etc. by shortening the guy, or to tighten the canopy due to sag (no longer necessary with Cuben).

With a perfect site, stock (nonadjustable) guy lengths work perfectly. In the real world, site conditions almost always require guys to be adjusted. Of course if I need to lengthen a guy then it's MacGyver time.

What Bj and BG wrote.
Also, I too attach the linelocs to the tent via a loop so they are replacable.

Cheers

Thank you all. John, you explained it best, maximum length. I'm not the best explaining/asking. My old KMart, $19.99 A-frame tent had those half moonish shaped aluminum things attached.
Duane

I'm a little confused. I don't see mention of what kind of line locks were ordered. There are 2 kinds by my understanding, unless I'm completely wrong on my terminology. In which case I need a little educating please.

There's the kind that attach to the tent side of the guy, and have a loose tail end of cord to pull on and works like a strapping lock mechanism. Then there's the cam locking line locks that work via shortening or lengthening a double up loop of line and I've always used them at the stake end. (Like the half moon shaped one's referred to.)

So am I using the second kind of locks incorrectly? Am i calling them by an improper name? Is it just that i'm still on my first cup of coffee? Somebody set me straight please?

"cam-cleat style" – mini LineLock

"free end style" – LineLock3

I think these two styles are segregated according to the size of the cord that is used.

I've used the first style on 2.0-2.5mm cords, and I've used the second style on 2.5-3.0mm cords. This is BPL, so obviously none of us have never used either on cords larger than that.

I have some 1.0mm cord for this year, though, and I assume that I will need to use the first style. I have some made out of glow-in-the-dark plastic.

What if they do not hold the 1.0mm cord? Is there an easy fix?

–B.G.–

Pictures! So much better than my feeble ramblings lol

The first pic is from Z-packs I believe. I bought some of those with a couple hanks of Joe's 1.25 mm Z line and they work well. I would think they'd work with 1mm line too.

Joe does sell minis, but I believe the credit for the image above goes to Mountain Laurel Designs.

My favorite image though is the one put out by BPL to show how to set one up –

NOT!

Threading the knot end as shown de-tensions the cam…

(When I bought my first package of mini's from the BPL store, it took me about three days to figure out why they didn't lock very well. Hey, I was following the directions….)

"Joe does sell minis, but I believe the credit for the image above goes to Mountain Laurel Designs"

Oh yes, joe has that little animated GIF. My bad. Time for that second cup of coffee I think :)

Haha! Got me on that one… I read the first line about your favorite image, then saw the pic. Had me worried for a minute there ;)

Those mini line locks are what I ordered for my new ZPacks shelter, thought I would give them a try, so dang light. I usually just poke my stake where I can, that was with my old TT Squall that I departed with last Fall.
Duane

So then you would do it just like the first picture Greg posted. Tie off the line at the shelter on the grosgrains, or whatever connection points the shelter has and leave a linelocked loop at the stakes, just like you've been doing, is what I'm reading…?

Hi Bob

> What if they do not hold the 1.0mm cord? Is there an easy fix?

If the cord is of the plaited design, then yes. What I did was to thread a shortish length of 0.5 mm cord up the middle of the plaited 1 mm cord. That made it thicker for the required length. A large blunt darning needle worked very well.

For my winter tent I went slightly stronger. I threaded 1 mm Spectra up the inside of some 1 mm Dacron, full length. The 1 mm Spectra is 'strong enough' but very slippery, while the Dacron sheathe gave excellent grip. Probably abseil on the stuff now, but still very flexible.

Cheers

All of your solutions involve adding more weight back to the lightweight cord.

What if the small cord is only about four strands of braided Dyneema?

For the cam-type line lock, I am thinking that milling some cuts into the plastic might help it grab the cord better.

–B.G.–

Hi Bob

> For the cam-type line lock,
Um – I use the would 'cam' for something which rotates. Are we talking about the same thing? For reference, a Line-Lok(R) looks like this:
http://www.clamcleat.com/cleats/cleat_details.asp?theid2=95

They are all made by this one firm ClamCleat.

Cheers

Yes, that is the ticket. It has a slight rotational tension on the line.

I'm thinking that I might be able to score edges slightly to improve friction if the tiny guyline is too slick or too small.

The ones that I have contain strontium aluminate to glow in the dark. Otherwise, I break my neck tripping over the guylines at night.

–B.G.–

I use the cam lock mini line locks and I added 10 -14" of line vs the recommended length. This allows me to easily move the stake to avoid rocks, roots, etc.

Up to a few months ago, I was thinking like one of those oz. counters that cuts every little bit of extra webbing and line off. Wasn't until I ordered some line from GG that I read 50' was 1.5 oz. Heck, there went my worries about carrying a few extra feet when needed for an extra guy out like on my BD Hilight if I get in a high wind again.
Duane