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Thru-Hiker Fleece Mitten Pattern Comments.

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PostedFeb 16, 2014 at 1:27 pm

If anyone decides to use the Thru-Hiker Mitten Pattern (thru-hiker.com > projects > Mitten Pattern), I have a few comments, now that I've made three pairs. Hope they help anyone making mitts from this pattern.

1) It's a really good pattern; simple and gets the job done. You hardly notice the seam across the palm when wearing, which concerned me at first.
2) Fit is surprisingly good, but you need to scale the pattern as needed. It assumes your palm circumference is 9". I did three different scale-backs from this pattern (different sizes– male adult, female adult, and kid) and all fit well when finished.
3) Obvious but needs to be said: much easier to sew with 100 wt fleece than 200 wt fleece. With the thicker fleece, you get some "bunchiness" in the hinge of the thumb. 100 wt fleece women's came in at 1 oz per pair; 200 wt fleece men's came in at 1.6 oz per pair.
4) When fastening the wrist elastic, first tack it into position well, and sew maybe a half inch of zigzag to get it pinned down. Once the feed dogs have a good grip, stretch the elastic as you sew over it with a zig zag. Not a huge stretch; just a gentle stretch. Then as you get to the other end of the piece, relax the elastic a bit and finish with a few extra stitches at the end to anchor it well. This will give you a gentle but good grip around your wrist when finished. Notice my technique improving from left to right; the dark mitts have quite a bit of elastic "grip" at the wrist.
4b) Wifey wished the wrist elastic was placed another eighth or quarter inch "south" toward the gauntlet.
5) The lower palm's thumb piece is generally about 1/4" short at the thumb tip when you match it with the back piece. I just trim the excess from the matching back piece at the thumb tip when sewn. But if you have long thumbs, you'd want to extend the thumb of the lower palm piece by maybe 1/4" when cutting.
6) The inner finger piece generally ends up 1/4" shy at the finger tips when matching the back piece. Again, I just trim the excess after it's sewn, but if your fingers tend to be long, then extend the finger area of the inner finger piece by maybe 1/4" when cutting.
7) A zigzag stitch does a better job hemming the gauntlet area (compare to straight stitch on green pair), allowing further stretch when putting on the glove.

.threemitts

Jim Colten BPL Member
PostedFeb 16, 2014 at 5:06 pm

I haven’t made fleece mitts but used the Thru-Hiker pattern for shell mitts and that worked well. Comments:

  1. +1 Delmar’s remark about scaling for hand size.
  2. I gave up on zig-zag for the elastic after the first pair. I make fabric tubes as long as the wrist pieces are wide and bar tack the ends of shorter pieces of elastic inside the tubes. Then sew the tubes onto the mitten pieces … stitch both edges of the tube. Much better elastic action that way.
  3. I’ll be trying Lance Marshall’s pattern to see if the curved and angled thumb articulation works better than straight across.
PostedFeb 16, 2014 at 7:19 pm

Just looked at Marshall's pattern– they'd certainly look more professional with the curve, I think, but more than that, it looks like the thumb articulation of the Marshall pattern is more natural, an "across palm" motion rather than the light-switch up-down of the Thru-hiker pattern. You're still going to get fabric bunching up in the crook of the thumb, for thick fabric.

Very interested to know how you like the Marshall pattern, please post up.

Regards you elasticized tube–read your description thrice–still don't understand.

Bob Gross BPL Member
PostedFeb 16, 2014 at 7:22 pm

I liked the Marshall pattern much better than the Thru-Hiker pattern.

–B.G.–

Jim Colten BPL Member
PostedFeb 17, 2014 at 5:34 am

Very interested to know how you like the Marshall pattern, please post up.
Will do.

Regards you elasticized tube–read your description thrice–still don't understand.
Yeah, I was thinking it might not be adequate as I was writing it but was short on time. I'll take a few photos while making a pair of Marshall Mitts and post a better description with the report.

Donna C BPL Member
PostedFeb 17, 2014 at 5:37 am

This is just a shared thing about mittens out of recycled sweaters. The pattern is the same…you could do without the wool. The video is one of many that anyone can do.
http://youtu.be/P9D-CPdGi5A

And yet another. I did this for rain mitts.

Youtube video

Marko Botsaris BPL Member
PostedFeb 17, 2014 at 10:24 am

Thanks for the post Delmar. I have what is at this point a huge bag of old fleece stuff that has been waiting for some inspiration.

PostedFeb 17, 2014 at 3:27 pm

Mark, you can have some fun mixing and matching your fleece pieces.

After making these mitts, I now realize I want a pair with a 200 wt (windblock, if I can find it) fleece back, and a 100 wt fleece palm. More comfortable in use (not as bunchy around the thumb); saving a bit of weight where it can be saved. When you're cold you tend to make a fist, so the palm fleece could be lighter than the rest.

Bob Gross BPL Member
PostedFeb 17, 2014 at 3:42 pm

"a pair with a 200 wt (windblock, if I can find it) fleece back, and a 100 wt fleece palm."

The ones that I made a few weeks ago had single layer 200 weight fleece on the palm, and two layers of 200 weight fleece on the back. I left the seams open between the two back layers, and I can stuff in extra insulation there if needed.

–B.G.–

PostedFeb 17, 2014 at 5:36 pm

That's clever.

It could even be expedient insulation, "as found," if needed.

I'll bet a lot of us would like to see a photo of that.

Bob Gross BPL Member
PostedFeb 17, 2014 at 6:25 pm

As I had recently reported, it used a Marshall pattern.

The fabric was the cheapest polyester fleece from Wally World.

I first made a pair out of thinner polyester fleece and gave those to a friend. Then I went to the heavier fabric, and the multiple layers worked fine.

–B.G.–

Kevin Beeden BPL Member
PostedFeb 20, 2014 at 9:42 am

I made some waterproof overmitts many years ago, and struggled with the elastication issue a bit.

Then I reversed the problem, and simply put the lycra edging strip on the outside, as a strap running across the back of the wrist. It was simply sewn into the side seams (after pinning to find the right length to get the 'goldilocks' tension).

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