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First MYOG climbing pack for custom fit – Design Questions

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Sarah W BPL Member
PostedJan 16, 2014 at 9:35 am

Hello All! This is my first post here and I have found the MYOG information on this site amazing. I am not truly an "ultralight" backpacker, though I am attempting to incorporate ideas into my kit. My main passion is rockclimbing and mountaineering. I am a small woman (14 inch torso) and my whole life I have suffered from lack of correctly sized packs. I *wished* I could make my own gear, but didn't think it was possible, until I found backpackinglight!

My intention is to make a small climbing pack that will ride above above my harness. I already made a mock-up out of muslin fabric and it looks good so far.

I am going to make the body out of 2 pieces of VX21 – one piece to go along my back and fold up for the bottom, and the second piece will form the front (away from my back) and the sides.

Two questions regarding design:

1) I want to put a strip of 3Dmesh along the back, and I also want a thin piece of foam in the back panel. I could make a pocket inside the pack that the foam would slide into. Or, I also thought that I could sew the foam underneath the 3Dmesh, sandwiching it between the pack fabric and the mesh. Does anyone have any opinion on what might be better?

2) What kind of seams for the main fabric panels? My initial idea was to sew with right sides together, flip right side out, and then top-stitch through the seam allowance, which will hold it to one side. However, I worry about compromising waterproofness if I top-stitch. Commercial packs often put a binding around the seam allowance. What types of seams to most use for the main pack seams?

Thanks!
Sarah

David Chenault BPL Member
PostedJan 17, 2014 at 7:17 am

Hi Sarah.

As to number 1, I think either could work. Being able to remove the foam can be convenient. Also, if you plan to sew through the foam, know that with thicker foams and conventional machines that can be a good way to break needles.

If I were you, I'd fell (sew, flip, top stitch) the side seams for strength, then flip the pack back inside out and triple stitch the bottom seam. Felling the bottom part will be logistically difficult, and having an exposed line of stitching here is usually a recipe for it wearing through unless you seam seal it on the outside.

Good luck.

PostedJan 17, 2014 at 8:41 pm

Regarding the foam along your back, I think it would be easier to put a pocket inside that you can slide it into. Like David said, most foams dense enough to do any good in this scenario will be a pain to sew. Maybe make the 3d mesh into an outside sleeve for your foam. Then you could access the foam for a sit pad without unloading the pack. Sewing the rest of the pack will also be easier without a bulky stiff panel to get in the way of your presser foot.

David is right on the seam finishing too. You won't be able to fell the whole thing with a typical sewing machine. I try to fell where I can, but the final seams end up with binding.

Sarah W BPL Member
PostedJan 19, 2014 at 8:07 am

Thanks for the tips!

I think I will go with the internal sleeve to hold the pad. It had not occurred to me that it would be more difficult to put the rest of the pack together with the pad permanently attached.

I like the idea of the cuben tape for seam sealing the inside! I will try that.

Regarding flat felling the seams – I am trying to picture how that will work. Is it actually topologically impossible to fell all of the seams, or is it just extremely difficult since you have to work through the opening in the pack?

Since I am going to seam seal internally, is there any advantage to doing a true felled seam (where I fold 1 longer seam allowance over the shorter one), or would it be fine to just fold both seam allowances to one side and top-stitch. Perhaps it won't look as clean on the inside, but I can't think of another reason.

Sarah

David Chenault BPL Member
PostedJan 19, 2014 at 8:27 am

Theoretically it is possible to fell all the seams, its just ridiculously hard to make it work, especially with a stiff fabric like VX-21.

I see no advantage to a true felled seam versus just folding over and sewing through the seam allowance.

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