Topic

Tarp Seam Instruction/Diagram

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M W BPL Member
PostedJan 10, 2014 at 6:41 pm

As I piece together my tarp plan, I realize I'm confused on how to sew a proper seam joining panels of silnylon.

I gather the seam as depicted by Mountainfitter in this thread: http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=73739&startat=20 – is plenty strong.

Is there a step-by-step diagram out there to achieve this sort of seam?

The seam Dan Cooke uses on his tarps, which in my own experience has been so far flawless in terms of strength durability, appears to be the sort of seam where 2 stitch lines appear on one side, whereas on the opposite side of the fabric, only 1 stitch line is visible.

I think Dan Cooke's "double stitched lapped seam," as used on his tarps ("French seam," "felled seam"…so many names I don't know which designates it properly) is easiest, but I'd rather use an overkill seam given my own sewing will be well-below the CCS standard.

Looking at the flat-felled or knock-off seams, I can't picture how to sew each line of stitching to avoid, for example, 2 lines of stitches in the same line when the layers of fabric are folded over each other.

I recognize and apologize for the ignorance contained in the forgoing.

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedJan 10, 2014 at 7:08 pm

I just do flat felled seam as described in http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/myog_silnylon_floorless_2-person_tent.html

Sew the two pieces together, open it out, fold over the raw edges twice and sew through them. Sew another row of stitches if you have any question about it being strong enough.

French seam is something else.

If you manufacture products and you really want to minimize labor, get machine that folds over the two pieces and puts two rows of stitches in one pass. This is no stronger than the "flat felled" seam I describe above and is typically done by MYOG.

There is no reason to waste time talking about what name you want to call these – double lapped, faux, whatever… – just makes things confusing.

The trick with home machine and silnylon, is the top piece stretches relative to the bottom piece so they aren't aligned by the time you get to bottom of the seam. But, with practice and technique, you can avoid this. Pin a few places, make some alignment marks on bot pieces, hold the two pieces together in front and back of where you're stitching, whatever…

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