Some places leave in indelible mark on ones consciousness. Unmarked by esoteric boundaries and free of bureaucratic trappings (no fires, reservations due months in advance, visitor centers, pre-permit ranger talks, and hard firm well trod trails) these places expand our own conceptions of landscape and place. The canyon of the Little Colorado River is one such place.
Entering what we dubbed "Horse Canyon" from a small side drainage
Located on the extreme northwestern border of the Navajo Reservation the canyon has become de-facto wilderness, like much of the reservation landscape, simply by being located on the reservation. It’s a welcome respite from the oppressive (but necessary) reality of hiking in the National Park system and, increasingly, BLM lands in southern Utah.
Following a graded gravel road west of Tuba City, AZ the entrance to the lower portion of the Little Colorado canyon can be found via the for lack of a better title “Horse Trail.” This said trail takes one through a ever growing side canyon before meeting with the main canyon of the Little Colorado River.
I've visited this canyon now three times in three completely different ways. It may seem odd to keep revisiting a specific place each and every year, but every year I get something more from this canyon, I experience something new, I see something different.
Kelly scoping our first view of the main gorge of the Little Colorado River.
To be able to share it with a small group of friends and my father this time around made it special in a new way.
Having an unhurried schedule (unlike last year's trip) allowed me to actually be able to look around and enjoy the canyon.
I do think there was more water this year – not a joy to drink but it can be done. Some of the group opted to carry up to 3.5 gallons up water on their backs just to avoid the turbid alkaline waters of the LCR.
Blue Springs (below) is a special place. The hiking gets more creative from this point on as the previously small stream turns into a 2-300CFS fast flowing micro-river. Frequent crossings and swimming keep things fun.
I truly believe if this canyon where located somewhere else: ie. off the Reservation, it would be a classic to rival the Narrows of Zion.
The cheap/easily punctured pool toys are a pain to inflate but make for fun travel in the deeper sections
Below, the scenery is mind blowing
Jarrod and I – having hiked from Cameron to the confluence the previous year had talked about this one special campsite tucked into the base of the cliff where turquoise waters plunged over a myriad of travertines
The next morning, the 4(ish) miles to Salt Canyon – where we would exit – may be my most favorite of the whole walk. Frequent wide but shallow crossings in the deepest part of the gorge make for an out of this world experience.
Their must have been a massive flash flood earlier in the year as the river channel at Salt camp was very different from the previous two years.
After a quick shaded break Joe and I headed down-canyon from Salt Camp to the Hopi Sipapu – a site of spiritual significance to the Hopi Indians.
Eventually we returned to Salt Camp in the late afternoon and decided to spend the shaded portion of the day making our way to the rim.
Cresting the first climb I noticed the marking (below) on one of the rocks. I've read that this trail was used by the Hopi Indians at one point for their annual salt pilgrimage. The actual Hopi Salt mines are somewhere on the banks of the Colorado River in Grand Canyon downstream from the confluence of the LCR and the Colorado. What I do not know is if they're still in use by traditional members? For more info a great read is Frank Waters "Book of the Hopi."
As the sun was setting the hiking, though hard, was quite enjoyable
Out of water and with little light left we spread our bags out on the slick rock bench pictured below at the base of the final climb
Awaking the following morning at first light extremely thirsty with empty water bottles we headed towards the rim.
Another grouping of rock art. Would love to know if this route is still used by the Hopis and learn more about its significance and the meaning of these petrogylphs.
Finally making it to the rim – you can see a sliver of the turquoise LCR in center left. Appreciative of getting to hike the whole exit route in the shade!
Original Trip Report can be found at my blog:
https://matt-vogt-lsl5.squarespace.com/blog/2013/12/18/exploring-the-canyon-of-the-little-colorado
