Winter Shell: Anorak v. Full Zip

for me it's a full zip in the winter. ever try to take off a jacket and have it pull up all of the clothes on your back, exposing your whole back? i'll pass on that :D

More often than not, I'm needing to vent a water-proof "breathable" shell. That front zip makes it possible to do some serious venting, even with the pack on, unzipping it down to the waist belt.

If you are doing something moderately strenuous like cross country skiing, you really need to have the maximum of variability in your shell. With a full zipper, you get that.

–B.G.–

The three potential advantages of an anorak are:
1) Less weight (zipper weight + fewer seams)
2) Reduced consequences of zipper failure
3) Less risk of water intrusion through the zipper

Downsides are:
1) They're more of a pain to get on
2) Loss of versatility in venting
3) Fit tends to be poor, as torso cut is often baggier.

For winter shell use the disadvantages tend to outweigh the advantages, although some mountaineers still use anoraks (ie. Ueli Steck uses the Mountain Hardware Quasar/Blazar). Personally, I think the only situations where an anorak style shell is interesting are:
1) Extremely light rain jackets (ie. North Face Triumph Anorak)
2) Packrafting rain jackets where the Anorak lets in less water pooling in your lap than a full zipper (could be fixed by a better zipper in a full zip rainjacket).

I've used a rab demand (anorak), which I like a lot, for the last few years, but I think a full zip is probably a little better for the main reason that its easier to vent. I actually prefer putting on an anorak to a full zip jacket especially in the wind with cold fingers when both sides of the unzipped jacket are blowing all over the place. Assuming a good fit, an anorak is also easier to keep neat under a harness while you're climbing (euli) or like Dan mentioned under the spray deck of a packraft. So actually, on the whole I may prefer an anorak, but venting is definitely an compelling reason to go full zip.

In cold colorado winter when I know its not going to rain up high, i'll often leave behind my rain shell or store it in my pack for if conditions get really gnarly (strong wind/spindrift). I definitely prefer a breathable windshell or light softshell to a wp/b about %95 of the time since it provides a better balance of weather protection and breathability than a wp/b.

The trick is that for an anorak to be the same weight as a full zip, that extra ~1/2 oz which isn't spent on a full zip will be spent on something like more durable face fabric.

Anoraks are more durable and more weatherproof than full zips, as well as lighter. The only disadvantage is the venting issue. Venting via the front zip is not practical in the rain, and I've never understood why anyone would wear a hard shell when it isn't raining (or snaining, etc), so the inexorable conclusion is that anoraks are the favored shell of the clever. Few companies seem able to keep hard shell anoraks in their lines for consecutive years, thus presenting a second conclusion, that most rain jacket buyers are not clever.

In all seriousness, for me winter shell specifically means a shell which isn't waterproof. Thankfully I live were snow is usually dry. For mild winter temps (>10F) I use my normal 4 season windshirt, which is full zip to enhance venting. For serious winter, I have a non-waterproof anorak.

I have an anorak, with a full side zip.

Venting from a full front zip does not work for me, most definitely not with the torrential rains we get here in Typhoon season. The Arc’teryx Alpha SL Pullover allows me to vent through a good pit zip on the left, and a full length zip on the right. Because of the full length side zip it is easy to get in and out of.

The cut of this jacket is also well done, meaning when I open my pit zips as much as in other jacket I have had, I get more venting because the zips scoop a bit more air. At the same time I can vent way more while being well protected from the front by opening the side zip completely while keeping the button on the bottom closed.

All for a relatively light weight of 332gr (11.7oz).
I just sold my Westcomb Switch full zip jacket (Polartec Neoshell with pit zips) because I can be much cooler in this thing while being more protected during a solid continuous downpour.

Darn it, you guys always hit questions from the craziest angles. These are exactly the kinds of insights I was looking for.

Armed with your comments, here are some conclusions I have drawn regarding "the old anorak question:"

1) If you were to own a dedicated rain jacket then the anorak is indeed the choice of the clever. That being said, in my case I have often used my waterproof shell to double as a wind shirt (especially during relatively static outings). IE here in New England if I were headed out for the night or going on a weekend trip, I often will take only a single "shell" type item, and leave wind shirt at home (I don't even own a "soft shell"). In some cases, a person's gear closet might not even be so diverse as to contain a dedicated wind shirt. In such cases, where a person is going to be wearing the WPB as a wind shirt during times when it is not actually raining, the full-zip is probably the better choice, for the ability to vent fully from the front.

2) There are obviously two classes of anorak: those with pit zips only and those with the full side zip. The latter, although being inherently heavier, reduce 2 of the major disadvantages of your standard anorak: 1) the inability to all-out vent and 2) difficulty of taking on and off.

All things considered, here is the gear purchase I made last night:

The EMS Men's Helix Anorak
http://www.ems.com/product/index.jsp?productId=18474736

It is a full-side zip anorak weighing in at a confirmed 12.7 ounces (size L) made out of the magical Polartec Neoshell. And…it is 50% off right now!! You can get it online right now for $125. That's a pretty absurd price for a very light weight Neoshell jacket. Apparently EMS is trying to dump these because no one is buying them (David-seems like you're right on about gear companies and their lack of success selling anoraks).

When I originally posted here I was torn between the EMS Helix Anorak and the EMS Helix Jacket (full zip, price $209). They are both listed on the EMS website at 12.7oz. However, when I went into the EMS store last night and held both jackets in my hand, it was obvious that the Helix Jacket was MUCH heavier than the Anorak. I'm talking 3-4 oz heavier. That made the decision much easier.

That Helix looks pretty nice. Suspiciously similar features to the Arc'teryx Alpha SL, but less than half the price. Let us know how it turns out.

I'm especially curious if the pocket zipper has a garage/hood. My 2009 Alpha did not, and neither does the Ozo. Waterproof zippers are waterproof, but not if they have a little hole at the top. In all day rain I'd get a centimeter of standing water in the Alpha's pocket.

" Waterproof zippers are waterproof . . ."

I can see daylight through my YKK "waterproof" zipper.

Garages are good.

That is a very nice find Ronald. Really happy to see a similar model out, and although for me personally the NeoShell didn't work so well, it is great to see it used in this way. Curious about the fit/cut and how it works out for you.

"That Helix looks pretty nice. Suspiciously similar features to the Arc'teryx Alpha SL, but less than half the price. Let us know how it turns out."

I really hope the full side zip anorak becomes more of a standard model, with fit, material and detail changes.

David – I hadn't heard of a zipper garage prior to your post, but now that you mention it the Helix Anorak does seem to have a flap that the zipper head tucks under when it is zipped fully shut. I have included a photo below so you can see for yourself.

Ito – Regarding the fit…I have included some photos of the pit vents so you can determine for yourself whether or not the cut will allow for the sail-like "catching air" function that you describe. Apart from the criterion of personal comfort, I can't say that I have much of an eye for "fit."

^Zipper garage?

^left arm vent (the one that doesn't unzip all the way down)

^left arm vent #2

^right arm vent, which unzips all the way down. here the zipper remains connected at the bottom (i.e. the vent is zipped here in the manner of a fully open ziplock bag)

^I thought you all might also be interested in this. notice the difference between the front zip and the pocket zip. it does not appear that the front zip is waterproof. however, it does have a flap behind it. can't really explain this one, since I would think that any water that enters the zipper and hits the flap would run down into the jacket interior. can someone explain?

*EDIT* FYI I am 5'10" 140ish lbs and this is the size Large

Looks like a YKK Vislon Aquaguard or perhaps Aquaseal and a standard YKK Uretek coil zipper. Both are watertight as far as jacket zippers are concerned.

Looks great man. I'm not an expert either and I think you will notice yourself and if it works on your body soon enough. Looks good though. I've had some jackets that were more tight fitting under the arms and the pit zips would follow the body more, instead of with the cut of the Arc Alpha SL (and I think also with your parka) where you have a more active, less restricting fit.

I tried a Helix jackets last year but did not like the fit or hood. I would try the Anorak but just got a new
Neoshell jacket for xmas.