FInally got some vacation time, so the Grand Canyon interested me since December – February normally see less people. True enough, my permit arrived a few days after my request (the rangers told me it does get packed from Xmas to New Year's however). I have been here before (last 2007) including the Tonto from Hermit's Rest and from Grandview. This time I stuck to the corridor due to wanted to test out gear and (hopefully) increased physical fitness with a flexible permit.
Intro: I wanted to test out some new items in my kit since the trails are tame but also test my fitness. Lately I have been reversing a physical non-fitness trend after working on databases for a year, so would my fitness would be up to the task of climbing out of the canyon (for those who haven't hiked it, the canyon is easy to get into but much harder to get out – a "people trap").
Trip: Camped at the South Rim and after breakfast at miwok, I drove to the Backcountry Office to weigh my gear (9.9 lbs with microspikes), update the forecast, and park my vehicle. before being shuttle bused to the trailhead.
I started to descend the South Kaibab and quickly found I did not need ice spikes due to the sun exposure. This trail went quick with great panoramas but after misjudging a step and gashing a shin, I decided to pay more attention to my foot placement. Even ran a bit to beat a mule train to a “resthouse”.
Ate lunch at "the Tipoff" and then proceeded down. The trail got a little more windy until reaching the Black Bridge.
At Bright Angel, I quickly set up camp (a TT Moment since snow was possible when I left home) and ate some more. I had reservations for Indian Gardens the next night (the groups I previously backpacked with use IG for an early start up to the Rim), but, looking at tomorrow, could I just go from river to rim? It started to look that way, but putting away food and sleep gear, I spent the rest of the afternoon exploring mostly Clear Creek trail… overlooking Phantom Ranch before going in..
Did a bit of the Northern Bright Angel trail but sunset comes early in the Canyon.
On previous trips with more trad gear, me and my buddies would not have the energy to explore beyond Phantom Ranch (you can buy drinks and beer down there until they kick non-guests out for paying guests to dine). After dinner, my plan was to partake in beers at the canteen at Phantom Ranch but the last thing I remember was saying I'll take a little nap before I feel asleep for 11 hours with only one interruption (see below).
After waking up late, I ate breakfast and packed in the dark (sunrise was not until after 7 AM)
The full moon just illuminated the Colorado River and the banks just so. With an iPhone camera though, the pictures didn’t turn out quite as nice. However a better camera means more weight. So the debate continues…
I dreaded the "Devil's Corkscrew" at the start of the Bright Angel. In peak season with hotter temps, this sun-exposed part of the trail winds ever up, causing a traffic jam of traditionally laden packer and mule trains. I just sailed through it and noticed details that escaped me on previous trips. Like waterfalls, frozen …
or non-frozen..
I took some back azimuths to confirm I had just ascended the "dreaded" Devil's Corkscrew and contemplated my previous experiences (i.e. missing the beauty due to pack weight). I meandered to Indian Gardens and water refill.
One problem with the Grand Canyon is the amount of visitors require an infrastructure. Here's a helicopter coming into to the pump house
Even though I had a permit, I decided to hike out since it was cold and damp … and also for the physical challenge. The trail became increasingly icy and despite some minor slips, I never had to deploy my ice microspikes going up..
Obligatory top of Grand Canyon rim shot
Topped little after 1pm after about 8 miles and 4200 ft. (4hrs vertical) – Indian Gardens at 10, 3 mile rest at 11, and 1 1/2 mile at 12 with some carbohydrates. Never felt tired but my legs were sore, so I looked forward to a hotel whirlpool. Unfortunately, rain hit AZ and the whirlpool I reserved in Phoenix was outdoors. I should have toughed it out and used it anyways as it took a couple days for legs to recover from soreness.
Conclusion: UL equipment helps but also daily hiking/power walking at 4 mph helped even more.
Observations : The camp groups were not as deserted as I thought and it was loud at night, … so earplugs or iPhone with ambient noise? Also if I can make it from River to Rim in a half-day, should I concentrate on getting faster (maybe an R2R2R?) to the point of a long day hike …. or concentrate on getting a better camera at a slight weight penalty? Decisions
