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September Trip to the Winds

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Randy Nelson BPL Member
PostedNov 3, 2013 at 8:30 pm

Not exactly a timely report but what the heck.

My whole year was pretty much ruined for backpacking due to 2 knee surgeries but I decided to get one trip in even if I had to limp through it. Which I did. My friend John drove up from SoCal to join my dog Buddy and me for a modified version of Nancy Pallister's Scenic tour of the Central Winds route. I wasn't sure how much off trail travel I would be up for and it sounded like Illinois Pass might not be a good idea with a dog even though he's hiked in almost any kind of conditions so we skipped that. But better safe than sorry.

We met up in Rock Springs on the 3rd Saturday of September and headed up to the Big Sandy Opening Trailhead. There were lots of dispersed campers on the way to the campground. Many with horses and portable corrals. John asked if it was hunting season and I assured him it wasn't. Yet anyway. We camped in the campground, barbecued some steaks and had a beer or two.

We weren't in any hurry on this trip as we were not going to cover a lot of miles but we still got a pretty late start on Sunday, about 1 PM. The plan was to get to Lizard Head meadow about 10 miles away.

Here's the island in Big Sandy Lake.

Island in Big Sandy

Looking back at the Temple Pass area. Buddy and went through there last year. It's spectacular.

Temple Pass

This lake is either unnamed or I can't find the name. :) Either way, it's very pretty and the inlet has more trout than I've ever seen anywhere else. We visited with some day hikers here. We wouldn't see anyone else for 5 days.

unamed

Jackass Pass.

Jackass

John coming down Jackass and looking down at Lonesome Lake.

John at Lonesome Lake

The Cirque of the Towers from camp.

Cirque from camp

We were chased off Lizard Head pass and retreated to a low spot in the trees and hung out in the SL3 until it cleared. Plenty of room for us and a guest. SL3 on Lizrad Head

It cleared and we made it to Lizard Head plateau, after John ran into a black bear and we took a short break :), but the weather quickly took a turn for the worse. Really bad hail. We were almost across and lighting rolled in but we descended quickly and made camp.

John
That night it rained and hailed a lot. Rain has never been an issue in the SL3 but at 3 AM I woke up to hail bouncing undereath. I grabbed the panel above my head and held it down tight until it passed. It continued to rain and hail until about 2 when we packed up and headed off to Grave Lake.

Crossing what I think is a fork of the South Wind River. Buddy waits to be released to join me.

Me and Buddy crossing stream

John crossing.

John crossing

Nice pond.

Nice pond

John saw this sign about 100 yards north of our campsite. Looks like we almost had to get a permit.

Sign

Stream near camp. Decided to wait and cross this one in the morning.

Stream

CC Ti-Tri. Even after a couple of days of hail and rain, no problem burning wood for fuel.

Ti-Tri

John overlooking Grave Lake.

John at Grave

My first ever lake crossing. Just below the inlet at Grave Lake. Needed to cross to head up to Rabbit Ears Lake.

Me and B at Grave

SL3. To me, this is the best shelter for 1P and a wet dog.

SL3 at RE

Super Dog and his Tyvek cape.

Buddy and cape

Macon Lake Pass

Macon

Rabbit Ears lake

Me and B at RE

Taking a break on the descent from Macon Lake Pass. The left of the pic is the approach to Illinois Pass. We took Washikie Pass to the right.MP

John above Macon Lake.

John above Macon

Looking over at the route we would have taken over Haley Pass instead of going over Macon Lake Pass.

Haley Pass

The back side of the Cirque.

Back of the Cirque

Dad's Lake. Last night's camp. When we left in the morning, there was a nice, large pile of bear scat about 50' from camp.

Dads

How to have a well earned cold one after a week long trip? Back country refrigeration. Tied these off in a discreet location before we headed out.

Beer fridge

Toasting a fun trip.

Beer time

PostedNov 4, 2013 at 6:16 am

I enjoyed the TR, Randy. Almost made me want to get a dog.
rOg, by coincidence I came across your blog today and enjoyed your trip report there too. I think I should worry about rain less.

PostedNov 4, 2013 at 6:19 am

Great report.
Crem de la crem in terms of scenery.

But the Winds in September – Dr. Jekyll an Mr. Hyde

Go for the best, expect the worst. Either way it's an adventure.

Jake D BPL Member
PostedNov 4, 2013 at 6:52 am

Nice.. love the one of the Golden sitting at the river.. "uh i'm going to wait to see how this goes for him" ;)

John Vance BPL Member
PostedNov 4, 2013 at 8:59 am

Sept is my favorite time of the year in the Winds – or any other range for that matter. My first trip to the Winds was in 1975ish and I have been back almost every year since.

This past Sept rained everyday technically, but was warm and mostly pleasant none the less. Over the years I have experienced highs in the 80's and lows near 0 in the month of Sept. Overall it's a great time with few to no bugs, thunderstorms, and people.

Randy Nelson BPL Member
PostedNov 4, 2013 at 10:23 am

Rog, I did see your TR when you posted it. I didn't want to rub it in so I didn't say anything.:) Your trip was a LOT more ambitious than ours. We did have some poor weather but it was really only over a 26 hour period. From noon the second day until around 2 the third day. The laundry line definitely looks familiar. Last year, Buddy and I went 1 week earlier and the weather was perfect. But as Greg mentions, you just never know what you're going to get. I've targeted early September mainly because it's my favorite time of year and I'm assuming there's less people after labor day. Considering where we were, we really didn't see a lot of people. It would have been even less last year but we ran into 2 NOLS classes. (Wish I'd have done something like that when I was a kid!)

It was pretty cold, especially the night near Rabbit Ears Lake. Probably in the 20's. I've never been cold before in my WM Alpinlite so I was kind of surprised. Of course, it didn't help when I decided not to pack my down booties. When I got home I measured the loft and it was 4" instead of the 5" WM says. I washed it and it came back up to 5". I'm sure that will help a lot.

Rog, did you guys carry bear spray? I've read that Grizzly sightings do occur but are rare in the southern Winds. I did 2 different couples carrying bear spray on this trip but they were both from Jackson Hole and both said the same thing: Based on where they live and go, it's just a standard part of their kit. This route took us up to the central area. I'm just wondering how far north you go before it's more common to carry bear spray. I'm sure that there would be wildly varying answers to that question. I'll need to do some more research on it before the next trip to the Winds.

HkNewman BPL Member
PostedNov 4, 2013 at 11:41 am

Great pics and write up, answering some questions I had about the Winds. Thanks.

Randy Nelson BPL Member
PostedNov 4, 2013 at 1:31 pm

Here's a few more of the Cirque area from last year's trip for you Rog. This year's trip shared the 5 miles or so from Big Sandy lake to the Lizard Head trail cutoff with last year's trip. Unfortunately, there was almost a constant haze from the fires burning up north that year so the pictures aren't the greatest.

These are left to right views of the Cirque:

cirque 1

cirque 2

cirque 3

cirque 4

cirque 5

Me and Buddy at Lonesome Lake with Pingora Peak in the background. This was shot by a NOLS student we were visiting with. He and some others were fishing the lake while others of their group were climbing the backside of Pingora. We could hear them yelling to each other but couldn't make it out. Probably just instructions anyway. His group were going up there the next day. He was a college student and I asked him how he paid for the course and he said his parents. I told him I'd shoot a video of him to say hi to them and get it to them when I got out since the class was out for something like a month. I got a nice note saying how much they loved seeing it. That was nice.

Me and B at Lonesome

Me and Buddy at the top of Jackass Pass with one of the Cirque peaks in the background.

Me and Buddy at Jackass

Hoot Filsinger BPL Member
PostedNov 4, 2013 at 7:30 pm

Randy,

Very enjoyable TR. The fact that so many BPL members are willing to overcome all the physical obstacles to keep returning to wild lands is a testament to how much we value our time in the wild. Worn out body parts and cancer be damned the trail is calling.The pics of you and Buddy are endearing and I'm sure they will find a place in your personal gallery of memories.

Hoot

dreamer BPL Member
PostedNov 16, 2013 at 3:57 am

Randy,

Thanks for the nice report. I love a hike in the Winds, even from the armchair.

Anyone interested in climbing there should check out the guidebook by Joe Kelsey.

Bears?! Forget the freaking bears! Have you heard abouth the cat? A thru hiker back for a closer look told me the chilling tale atop Hailey Pass this August. — Evening found our happy innocents in Ranger Park (between Washakie Pass and Valentine Lake) relaxing to a well deserved dinner by their camp and watching a nearby deer. At this moment Fluffy bursts from cover and proceeds to take Bambi out in a flash of blood and gore, while in full view. One can imagine Hansel and Gretal feeling as though they just might have wandered a bit to far into the Forest for comfort as our friends rapidly packed up and moved on.

John Vance BPL Member
PostedNov 16, 2013 at 7:31 am

I have been going to the Winds for decades and never take Bear spray. That may one day prove to be foolish but I have had few encounters there, a Grizz on the northside of Porcipine Pass, another Grizz on the very north end of the range, a bear swimming across Green Lake, black bear in Lizard Head Meadows, another up above Grave Lake on the west end, and another in the Big Sandy trailhead campground.

In all instances they were interested in getting away as fast as possible. I have carried spray in AK and British Columbia and have seen more bears in one day there than nearly forty years of going to the Winds. I think one big reason I don't have many encounters is the fact that other than the first night and sometimes the last, I rarely camp below 11,000 feet. Consequently, I see little more than rodents, birds, coyotes, sheep, and a rare goat – and in the Winds – Llamas.

Tom Hadley BPL Member
PostedDec 2, 2013 at 8:39 am

Soloed into the Brown Cliffs area earlier in the month from the Meadow Lake trailhead. Nice country, The Winds.

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