Making a Lid out of Alum. Flashing

A small sheet of carbon fiber works, and it is easily cut with scissors.

–B.G.–

Just in case this slipped under the radar…

… a lid extending over the side of the pot is prone to Dripping over the side of the pot.

An alternative that is more approachable for those without metal working skills and tools is to use foil from a turkey roaster pan. It is a step up from a light foil lid and can be cut with ordinary scissors and formed by hand. It's not as pretty and you can't stack stuff on top, but it keeps the heat in as well.

A couple recycled plastic lid options:

a Fage yogurt lid fits inside used upside down. It needs a bit of line, wire or a paper clip for a handle

The lid from a Panda Express takeout bowl snaps on tight– too tight for cooking snapped completely on, but perfect as a storage/packing lid. It would make a good bold for a light foil lid. It hangs over the edge a bit, so it might catch flames coming up the side of the pot.

> A small sheet of carbon fiber works, and it is easily cut with scissors.

I'm guessing that would be a flat lid with no lip, correct?

I think I followed Stuart's instructions in that post, although the photo wasn't great. I'll try to do a diagram in text below:

____
XXXI________________T______
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

In which the metal being hammered is represented by the underlines and the I's, the wood form is shown in Xs and the T is a screw that let's you spin the lid around.

The beauty of my reading of Stuart's approach is that you don't need to form a round pattern to hammer against. A simple "L" of wood with the short leg being that slight lip (1/4" high) would suffice. So making the pattern could be as simple as:

MMMM
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

In which XXXXXX is a scrap of 2×4 or plywood and MMMMM is a bit of 1/4" plywood or layer of metal (two stop sign thicknessess?)

Now, you use a cold chisel, large slotted screwdriver or large bolt to hammer the flashing into the crevice between the XXXX and the MMMM. It will cause the outer flashing to rise up a little and you tap it back down each time.

If you accept that it will take 3 or 4 complete rotations and go for just a little indent each time, you'll get good results like Stuart did.

With an indented lid like that, condensed steam will drop back into the pot, instead of down onto your burner.

Edited to tweak the diagrams.

You can make that aluminum flashing more workable by annealing it–heating it. Don't know the temp, but think I've heard it can be done in a kitchen oven. Have only done it with a propane torch, and result was variable with scorch marks. If you could live with the overlap being inside the pot, you could fill the pot with sand (with a semi rigid disc on top) and tap or work the aluminum with the almost-full pot as the mold.

Well, I have tried a lot of different methodes. The easiest was to simply cut a disk of about 1/4" over the size wanted. Then just tap arount the center on an anvil. This creates a dished, fairly rigid top. A drill and a bent paper clip makes a good handle. It just slips into my pack against my back. I have been using one for 5-6 years. It drips water back, into the pot, seals enough to prevent heat/steam losses, and doubles as a cutting board. Sand the edges so it isn't sharp.

Anealing can remove the temper and leave the lid fairly weak. Forming it will often retemper it, though.

Here's a tip I received awhile back and would like to pass along…

Every time a newspaper page is printed, a large sheet of thin aluminum is used. I don't quite understand the process…but what I do know is that if you go to where your local paper is printed, they have these sheets of aluminum the size of an unfolded newspaper. The thickness is lighter than flashing, but much more substantial than foil. The material is quite easily worked without a great deal of skill.

Chat someone up that works there and they will likely give you a sheet, or at least sell one to you for cheap.

I obtained a single sheet several years ago and have used it for a number of projects.

I'm impressed by both the method and the text diagram.

When you get down to the handle, one leg from the clamp style paper clips can used:

"I'm guessing that would be a flat lid with no lip, correct?"

Correct. First, I don't think that I want a lip on it. Second, it will be more to deal with for packing if it has a lip. Fabrication with a lip will just make it three times as difficult.

If you have no serious steam pressure inside a water boiler, then that is normal. If you had a lip on the lid, steam pressure would have a harder time leaking out.

My carbon fiber lid just sits on the cook pot, and it burps occasionally.

–B.G.–

There is also the type that I just posted in this thread:

http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?bo=watch&forum_thread_id=58291

I have made one for my Snowpeak 600 as well.

Stephen: impressive modding skills!

David: thanks for the clarification. Contemplating the approach you explained.

I made a former out off a scrap piece of 1/4" aluminium, as shown in the original post. I don't think wood will be hard enough. One edge of the former has an arc at the desired radius. The disc of aluminium to be formed into the lid (0.5 to 1.0mm thick) goes on top of the former (the lid will be formed upside down), held in place with a central screw:

_____________T_______________
.. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

The whole assembly needs to be firmly clamped to the work bench. Then gently form the edge a little at a time with a hammer, unclamp, rotate the lid and reclamp as you go:

____________T___________
/XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX <- imagine this bit at a shallower angle

Then with a cold chisel to get the lip:

.. ____________T___________
_/XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX_

Take your time, only form a little at a time or the whole lid will warp.
HTH.

Edit: added '.' to try to get the diagram to line up

Blimey, Stuart, what a great looking lid!
Sometimes one has to just think of the skill it must have taken, and sigh.

Here’s my attempt to make a lightweight lid from Al drinks can wall:

MYOG lightweight pan lid

The buckled, folded edge isn’t as neat as you’d get by hammering, or using a decent pressing tool, but it’s easy to do, and works okay. Careful trimming of the finished edge allows the lid to stay popped in place.