Marking Gradations on Inside of Pot

I did the same and colored the marks in with sharpie, the black in the groove doesnt scrub off so it stays somewhat easier to see.

No, it doesnt look professional either, but so what.

Yes, a pipe cutter for plastic pipe. Put it in a drill press and reduce speed of press when making the line all the way around the circumference of the inside. Harbor Freight used to sell the cutters and might still have them.

I made gradations in my titanium pot by pressing a piece of thick copper wire (ends rounded with a file) into the side with a C-clamp (wire on one side, fleece pad on the other). This gives embossed gradations that look factory-made. My only photo of it is not very clear:

To make marks like Colin's, but a little more distinct:

Sacrifice a large, standard screwdriver. On a belt sander, or with a file, smooth off the corners of the tip so it has a nice radius to it.

Sand/rasp one edge of a 2×4 to the same radius as the pot. The 2×4 will be your anvil, your support so you don't make the pot out of round.

Mark your levels on the outside with sharpie.

Secure the 2×4 and place the pot over it.

Whack the screwdriver with a hammer on the outside of the pot. The wood will help support the rest of the pot but yield to the screwdriver blow in that one location. Repeat as desired. Single marks would suffice. Two or three columns of marks would mean one is always visible.

Hi Colin

> I made gradations in my titanium pot by pressing a piece of thick copper wire (ends
> rounded with a file) into the side with a C-clamp (wire on one side, fleece pad on
> the other).

Very nice!

Cheers

Colin: Most excellent. If I'd not seen this, I'd have assumed the copper would deform long before making a mark in titanium. I assume you were using solid copper wire, not stranded.

David: This is more or less the direction I'm headed. Totally agree that a backstop of some sort is vital. I think the lack of a backstop is what made my punch marks look so cheezy and "home-made." However I would prefer to press (clamp) rather than strike, for increased control. Now, have you done this yourself, and were you pleased with results?

All: I assume any embossing/denting/deforming would be best if the "bump" went to the inside of the pot. If the pot had the crevice side, it would likely become a cleaning issue?

Yes, solid copper wire. The marks are not perfectly straight, but they are very close. I forgot to mention that I taped the wire to the outside of the pot with strong packing tape (the pad went on the inside), and I also filed down the edges of the non-rotating face of the clamp (which went on the inside of the pot) to avoid deforming the pot.

Yes, ease of cleaning was my reason for making the bumps go in.

Colin,

Very cool and it looks like even I may be able to do it. I like that.