Sep 30, 2013 at 1:38 pm #1308209
I am making a copy of the soulo (hilleberg).
(a little higher and longer)
I have made a framework for the dimensions of the fabric
Freestanding winter/summit tent
was already very helpful.
Should I make the seams as Hillberg does?
Or maybe like Roger Caffin doing?
see diagrammatic cross-section almost at the end
I fear leaks under stress.
This is not a tunnel tent but a dome.
What material would you use for the sleeve (the top part and the part that touches the ground?
The curve is steep and therefore I think only using sleeves is not easy to build up and break down the tent.
The Soulo has a neat solution to distribute the stress on the tent fly.
What fabric should I use?
Cutting the curve with heat to prevent fraying?
Or only using grosgrain (extra clips?)
Thank you.Sep 30, 2013 at 2:09 pm #2029656
Franco DarioliBPL Member
"I fear leaks under stress'
You will be spending many days making that tent, an hour of seam sealing will put an end to fearing leaks.Sep 30, 2013 at 2:26 pm #2029660
it was the post at the end that troubled meOct 1, 2013 at 1:56 pm #2029978
Stuart RBPL Member
It looks like you have made an exact frame to make precise templates for your panels. But a word of warning – if you plan to use silnylon fabric, it has some stretch. If you cut the fabric to the same size as your templates, you will find that the bottom edge of the finished flysheet will lack tension.
If I were doing this again, I would cut the silnylon panels to the template pattern, then sew them together with a single line of stitching. Then place the flysheet over the frame and check the tension. I would expect to have to adjust the lower part of the seams to increase tension in this area. When adjusted satisfactorily, complete the flat felled seams with the 2nd row of stitching.
However, if you are using cuben fabric, this has no stretch so you will not have this problem.Oct 1, 2013 at 3:26 pm #2030015
Thank you for the tip.
Maybe, you are right.
I will follow your advice.
I was thinking,
A soulo has extern poles
I sew the fly sheet.
The poles are longer than needed and I must match them with the tent fly.
(and not the fly matching with the poles)
If the pole is to long and when I am clipping the upper part of the fly to the poles , the pole has the intention going to the outside and give tension to the fly (lower to the ground)
I hope you understand what I want to say.
English is not my first language.Oct 1, 2013 at 3:53 pm #2030027
marc DBPL Member
I would be careful with that.
If I understand it correctly, you want to make the poles longer than they would be in order to put more tension on the flysheet?
This can cause problems if the pole ends are going into eyelets, they can put too much strain on them and pop them out.Dec 10, 2013 at 5:33 am #2052806
I can tell you that the outer is (nearly) ready.
The seams under the poles are a little bit flexible
so I had no problem to bring the sail under tension.
height: 110 cm
length: 240 cmDec 10, 2013 at 9:44 am #2052849
Beautiful! Well done!Dec 10, 2013 at 11:21 am #2052877
Stuart RBPL Member
Very nice, looks like you spent a lot of time working on it.
Weight?Dec 10, 2013 at 10:12 pm #2053085
Sam FarringtonBPL Member
@scfhomeLocale: Chocorua NH, USA
Did not see your original post – missed it.
Looks like you have got the tent almost finished, so most of your questions you have answered yourself.
Does your tent have an inner like the Soulo?
If so, your fly will just be a 'cap' fly, like the one on the Soulo, and need only a small amount of fabric.
Since you are building a tent for all conditions, it would not make sense to skimp on just a small amount of fabric for a small 'cap' fly that will be exposed to heavy winds, ice etc. Something nylon, around 30-40 denier and 40-50 grams per sq. meter with a hydrostatic head of at least 3000mm would be durable, and would be light, given the small amount of fabric needed.
On the other hand, if there is no inner, and you need to make a full fly, that is another story. Then join the search for the lightest material with acceptable water resistance. There are many different opinions about that. I am guessing you are in Europe, where many good fabrics are available from the German companies.
With good stakes and guylines, the tent looks like it will withstand the weather.
It might be a good idea to be able to zip up the vents a bit under the 'cap' fly, though, in case of monsoon type rain.
It is now a moot issue; but I think that the conventional lap felled seam with the pole sleeves, or clip connecting pieces sewn into the seam as you have it, is as easy to make and strong as any other method. Because the clips do focus the stress over a smaller area than sleeves, some companies reinforce the tent fabric in the vicinity of where the triangular clip connecting pieces are sewn into the canopy seams.
Even though the tent is red, I'm green with envy.Dec 16, 2013 at 12:27 pm #2054803
The tentfly is ready and I can give you the weight
tentfly with umbrella: 914gr
tentfly: silnylon 45D
For the sleeves I used Groundsheet Nylon, PU coated, 120 g / sqm
The Pu coating is on the inside,
afterwards it was better that the Pu was on the outsite.
(now, there is more friction)
For the pole shoes and the curved
Tent hook connection (cut with a soldering iron)
used Cordura, 1000D, PU-coated, 350g/qm
Afterwards I think it would have been better using something like
Nylon, 210den, TPU coated both sides.
the dimensions of the Soulo copy are:
length 240 cm,
height 110 cm,
width base and head: 73 cm
In the middle: 173 cm
some extra photo’s:
https://picasaweb.google.com/114978298530178500004/SouloCopy#Dec 18, 2013 at 4:17 am #2055476
@ant89Locale: North Wales, UK
You have certainly done a good job here.Dec 27, 2013 at 2:57 pm #2058016
marc DBPL Member
Professional looking work. Well done!Dec 31, 2013 at 5:23 pm #2059204
Eric BlumensaadtBPL Member
@danepackerLocale: Mojave Desert
Ivo, you are GOOD at cutting. Cutting is the heart of any fabric construction, be it clothing or tents.
I should hire you to make my "ideal" 4 season tent. :o)
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