Potty

I am not sure what her range of motion is, but this only requires a slight bend of the knees, also keeps the weight of the kit down. http://www.biffybag.com/how-it-works.htm

Not sure if it's available for purchase yet or not. Looks like a fairly simply MYOG project if not.

Not sure if this would work with your wife’s injury but the video is worth watching either way.

http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/strap-and-crap

Before the strap and crap, BPL wunderkind Daryl Daryl posted how he put his together. Easy MYOG.

http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=52163

Thanks folks I will check these out. Currently her range of motion is limited but it will be a few more months until we can get on the trail together and by then she will be able to sit on a normal commode so I suspect her range of motion to be at least 90 degrees. However not many of us can squat for very long at 90 degrees. ;0)

You can find or make a lighter strap, but I haven't found a better, easier, stronger strap that NRS's 1-inch wide ones:

http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfid=1440&pdeptid=1188

$5.70 for a 9-footer. 114 grams = 4 ounces on my scale. It's overkill to hold on your sleeping bag, but could be multipurposed that way.

I've seen the NRS-brand straps sold in some sporting goods stores (including Sportsman's Warehouse), especially if they carry high-quality rafts.

Add a 15" x 3" chunk of CCF pad if you'll be hanging out for a long time.

Pro-tip: Get 2 or 4 of the 20-footers ($7.75 each) and you will be able to secure most anything on your roof rack or on your truck. In the last year, I've secured: a canoe, several kayaks, a 14-foot Zodiac, many sheets of plywood and 2x4s, a 5-foot diameter dip net, a snowblower hanging out the back of my RAV4, etc.

Of course, any two 48" sleeping-bag straps could be combined, end-to-end, to make a strap of the right length.

If you're going to be in the trees, and she needed an actual seat, you could potentially leave behind the steel legs of that Stansport model and secure it to a tree:

Install 2 or 3 screws into the back of the seat and then cut the heads off with bolt cutters, tin snips or a hacksaw, leaving 1 cm of shaft sticking out. That is to the grab hold of the tree at the seat-tree junction.

Then attach the two ends of a strap or cord to the two front corners of the seat and secure those to a branch on the back side of the tree.

Further, if you want to the reduce the weight of the seat, a lot of people with outhouses in Alaska use blue foam for the seat in winter (you don't want to sit on painted or even bare wood at -40!). The foam won't support weight over any span until you wrap it in fiberglass, carbon fiber, etc and resin. But a cheaper, quicker version would be to wrap it in duct tape until it had the needed strength. Inset some scraps of wood wherever you'll need attach points.

If weight is a concern but volume is not, cut out 2 or 3 identical seats from 2"-thick blue foam. Stack them up. Now, there is volume underneath to accommodate the output. Rest the whole thing on a log or rock.

But as soon as you have any height (the original Stansport thing, some of the strap-to-a-tree ideas, or my extra-tall seat version, I don't see how to avoid the plastic bag to catch splashes.

Buy an RV or trailer with a bathroom?