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MYOG quilt help?

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Adam Klags BPL Member
PostedJul 7, 2013 at 8:15 pm

New to MYOG, but since I know how to sew, I figured it was time to start. As someone who prefers a tent to a tarp and has to carry a bear barrel in most places I hike, I have limited options on my UL setup – IE I carry a heavier pack and tent. So saving weight in my sleep system is a new priority for me. I am looking to make a 3 season MYOG quilt that would cover me down to about 40/45 degrees and that opens to a full quilt. I found this:

http://www.lytw8.com/uploads/LytW8_Summer_Quilt_Instructions.pdf

So now that I have the basic instructions, I need some pointers from all of you with experience. Mainly, 1) while it appears M50 is the best fabric choice for me, please comment on this statement. Do you have something else to suggest that is similarly light or is this still ideal for this weight? 2) what do I need to know about sewing with m50 that is different than sewing with traditional fabrics like cotton? 3)where is the best place to obtain these materials, and does someone have extra they'd like to sell me?

I would like to keep my project as close to this weight and design as possible, but please do suggest some changes based on experience? I searched MYOG quilt but if anyone has other threads I should check out please link me to them?

Thanks for the guidance as I plan to jump in with this first MYOG project…

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedJul 7, 2013 at 9:28 pm

M50 – thruhiker.com

nobul2 – http://www.titaniumgoat.com/Fabric.html – 0.76 oz/yd2 – more comfortable liner than M50, almost as water resistant as M50 for shell. Especially if you're using tent, you might want to use just this fabric rather than M50.

http://wildernesslogics.com/DIY-MATERIALS_c28.htm has 850 down – much cheaper and almost as good as the best down you can get

I'm making one with M50 and either nobul1 or nobul2, I forget which but they're pretty similar. They are very thin fabrics. You don't want to screw up and rip out a bunch of seams, I think maybe the fabric wouldn't survive. Sew some scraps first to get the hang of it.

I think Jamie's instructions are pretty good

Thomas Conly BPL Member
PostedJul 8, 2013 at 6:31 am

I would hesitate to use M50 for both the inner and the outer shells. It is not very breathable and there have been reports from people who have used it as a bivy top that they will get condensation on the inside. I would worry that that could happen on the inside of your quilt. You could use it for the inner though because it would not likely have condensation so close to your body. I used M50 for my liner and M90 for my outer. I've used Nobul1 and although it is very breathable, it does not seem as robust as M50. Nobul2 is probably different. Zpacks just started selling Pertex Quantum GL. I would probably use that if I were to make a new one. Zpacks used to use M90 on the outside of their quilts and I suspect that it was due to the fact that the lighter fabric they were using would have collected condensation but the Pertex they're using breaths better. Who knows, if you ask nicely you might be able to get some down through Zpacks too.

Adam Klags BPL Member
PostedJul 8, 2013 at 8:17 am

Ok looks like pertex quantum GL will be a better fabric for me. It is still downproof, correct? I'll probably order that for this project. Next, how will this fabric sew compared to traditional fabrics? Do i need special threads or needles for this project? Thanks for all the feedback so far. I'm looking forward to getting this quilt going!

Jerry Adams BPL Member
PostedJul 8, 2013 at 8:48 am

Polyester thread, like the Gutterman you get at fabric stores. Some people use better thread than this but regular Gutterman works. Cotton thread not so good.

Smaller needle makes smaller hole in fabric.

Adam Klags BPL Member
PostedJul 8, 2013 at 9:13 am

Makes sense. Any suggestions on which actual needle size to get? Its been years since I've done any sewing so just want to cover my bases. Do you guys have a preferred company on that type of thread you'd like to suggest or any one will do?

Ryan Smith BPL Member
PostedJul 8, 2013 at 9:17 am

Hi Adam,

You should also do a search on quilt instructions over at Hammockforums.net. They have one set that is a sticky. Several great tutorials over there on normal quilts plus Karo baffled designs.

Fabrics- All of the ones mentioned so far(minus the Pertex)have been used to make multiple quilts so you can't really go wrong with them. They are reasonably downproof provided that 850+ down is used. The down side to the Pertex that Zpacks sells is the price. It's the most costly of the bunch. Past Pertex fabrics have been pretty poor on downproofness for me even with 850 fill, but no experience with this latest round of fabric so take that with a grain of salt.

Ryan

Ryan Smith BPL Member
PostedJul 8, 2013 at 9:21 am

Microtex 60/8 is normally what I use, but the next size up is fine also.

Ryan

Bill Townsend BPL Member
PostedJul 11, 2013 at 6:50 am

I just finished a m50/apex 2.5 quilt, materials from Thru-hiker. I have a drawstring foot box for better warm weather versatility. I used a number nine needle and gutterman 100% poly thread. I added loops of 1/2" webbing every 8" from the top and sewed up the bottom 32" to make the footbox. 54" top, 50" bottom, 78" tall, 11 3/8 ounces finished weight. I oversized the footbox so that i could put my neo-air inside on chilly nights, and so i'd have extra squirm room on hot ones. I note many folks mentioned down, but for a first quilt and the temp range you mentioned I think apex is a better choice for us non-western (higher humidity) folks. You can always go with apex 5 ounce for extra warmth, but with hat, sleep socks and clothes I find apex 2.5 good to mid forties. I am a warm sleeper, if 40/50 was a safe number for you, try the 2.5 ounce apex. Worst case you end up with a summer quilt. You can always make a second quilt later out of the heavier insulation. As far as the breath ability, M50 is only a DWR coating, brand new it's a hair clammy. If you have the patience, just wash the crap out of it prior to using it to reduce the DWR. I asked thru hiker about uncoated M50, they call it m45 and it costs $20 per yard and only saves .05 ounces per yard.

Jake D BPL Member
PostedJul 11, 2013 at 7:15 am

I agree with the Apex.. once you get to summer temps the weight benefit of down isn't as much. plus the cost and work savings is pretty big.

look up Sin50 quilt for a good pattern for synthetic quilt.

i also have a drawstring footbox with velcro. I went M90 with 2.5 apex and weighs 12oz. i don't have my exact dimensions but similar to a RevX 5'6

Adam Klags BPL Member
PostedJul 13, 2013 at 6:16 pm

Great details, thanks for this. I think I'll try the apex 2.5 since I'm looking more for a summer-use quilt overall anyway. I probably won't get started on this until some time in August but I'll be sure to post my results! Just got back from a great trip in the ADK mtns and I could handle less warmth than I have with my WM bag.

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