will this tent withstand snow?

In the photo, the only panel that I see that might be a problem is the long top between the two poles.

How much is heavy snow?

Typically when the snow hits a tent like this, it sticks a little on top, and then most of it slides down the sides and starts making mounds at the bottom. After a few hours of this, the mounds start to press inward on the tent. As long as you remember to wake up every few hours and knock the snow mounds away, it ought to work. If you are lucky, you should be able to kick the snow mounds from inside the tent, but don't kick so hard that you stress the fabric. If that is a concern, then you have to go outside and shovel the snow mounds away.

Also, the snow mounds tend to harden rapidly, and they cover over your snow stakes. That makes them difficult to retrieve, so consider placing pull cords on the stakes to make extraction easier.

The snow mounds tend to reduce ventilation through the tent, so sometimes you wake up in the middle of the night and you are gasping for breath.

–B.G.–

2.7 kg – pretty heavy. No, that's not a criticism, it's a statement about the poles and fabric. They are likely to be fairly robust.

Yes, the flat top is a risk: it will collect snow. Yes, you can and should knock the snow off as Bob suggests. Light snow should not worry it much.

My suggestion is that you should take four good large anchors for the two ends, and pitch the tent very tight (lengthwise). Use those guy ropes on the big arch to improve the tension in the roof as well.

Actually, it looks more robust than the more recent Robens Challenger 2.

Cheers

As Bob mentioned your top is relatively flat because your hoops have flat top sections.

As Roger Caffin has shown here many times, "tunnel" tents make very good winter tents.
EXCEPT, your tunnel tent was not made to shed wet snow.

PROPOSED "FIX":

1.-> Run a slightly bowed, heavy duty sectioned "cross pole" (outside) from the TOP middle of one pole sleeve to the other.. This pole should be under tension to keep it arched. Then attatch two inverted "V" webbing straps (approximately 2 cm. wide) from the tent fly (sewn and seam sealed) to the the cross pole will pull your top fly up for better snow shedding. It will also provide some better canopy support for high winds.

2.-> To attatch the ends of the arched cross pole to each hoop sleeve sew a very short, grommeted piece of webbing to the top center of the sleeve. The grommet must be just large enough to accept the plastic cross pole ends. Get the cross pole, shock cord and end plugs from a pole supplier. I got mine at -> -> tentpoletechnologies.com
(This company will require that you know exactly the length you need when the pole is under tension. You can chooose the pole diameter, wall thickness and section lengths.)

3.-> You need inverted V straps to keep the arched cross pole from flopping to one side or the other. They need to attatch from the webbing to the cross pole with plastic pole "snap-on" clips that are captive (permenantly attatched) on the webbing. Many tentmakers use these to attatch inner tents or tent flys to poles as a quick release method. Finding them on the internet should not be difficult.
The inverted V straps should likely be sewn about 6cm. to 10 cm. on each side of the tent's centerline. Looking at your photograph I would space the inverted V straps so they divide the distance between the hoops into 3 equidistant sections.

Sounds like a lot of DIY but it is not rocket science. Tinkering with tents has become a pastime for me.

Bob, Roger, Eric, thanks for you insights. Ok, unless I change my mind, I will test this one next winter. Might go for the tweaks Eric proposed.

Wim