The New, Lighter 1.0L MSR Reactor

Hi Jim. I've taken the Reactor on numerous snow camping adventures and last February me and a buddy took the Reactor, a Jetboil, MSR micro rocket, and a coleman extreme to do some non-scientific testing. At temperatures hovering at 20 degrees the Reactor was a monster. It didn't suffer the usual glacial melting process that ordinary canisters are plagued. My trusty MSR micro rocket was a dog in that setting as I expected. The Jetboil was affected adversely as well, but my old Coleman Extreme did very well.

As for the Reactor, I'm assuming it is the internal pressure regulator and overall design efficiency that allows it to function so well in cold. However, I can't definitively state the reasons, but perhaps some of our engineer friends can. MSR claims the regulator is responsible for good cold weather performance.

One other neat thing of note. When using the Reactor on snow you don't have to put a mousepad or chunk of bark underneath it like other stoves. It captures heat so effectively that you don't end up with a growing hole where the stove is placed. This is not really a big deal, but in the past i carried a mousepad for my other stoves when snowcamping and now I don't. A small weight saving, but it further confirms that sometimes we don't always get the entire weight savings picture just by comparing base weights of products. This also can be said for stove efficiency and weight reductions associated with carrying less fuel.

Anyhow, enjoy the new Reactor!

Hi Jim

> true white gas is really hard to find in the United States.
So what is the technical difference between 'true white gas' and what is sold today?

Cheers

Well, I’m not a Pet. E. nor a chemist and I’m no expert, but here’s my understanding:
True white gasoline is the type of gasoline originally refined for automobiles, the type with out tetraethyl lead added. When tetraethyl lead was later added to inhibit premature detonation (“knocking”), the leaded gasoline was dyed red to distinguish it from gasoline without lead. Leaded gasoline became known as “red” gasoline (sometimes also called “ethyl”) and gasoline without lead became known as “white” gasoline. Note that white gasoline is not the same as “unleaded” gasoline. Unleaded gasoline has additives to prevent premature detonation; the additives just aren’t lead. White gasoline does not have anti-knock additives.

Then along came William C Coleman. From the Coleman website:

W.C. Coleman could see the light for the darkness. The young salesman was taking a stroll after a hard day’s work selling typewriters, and spotted a new type of lamplight in a drugstore window in Brockton, Alabama. This new light burned with a strong, steady white flame and was fueled by gasoline. The standard lamp of the era burned kerosene and produced a smoky, flickering, yellowish light. W.C. was stricken with very poor eyesight, and was very interested in this new, steady white light that enabled him to read even the smallest print in books and on medicine bottles. Coleman saw potential in the new light, and through his vision a new company was born that would put America’s farms and ranches in a new light.

The Coleman company originally used white gasoline. At some point, the Coleman company developed and improved fuel, one that was safer, more stable, and, by virtue of the addition of rust inhibitors, made their equipment last longer. Thus Coleman fuel was born.

Of course there a number of similar fuels: Shellite, Blazo, Sunnyside Camping Appliance Fuel, MSR Super Fuel, Fuelite, etc. These are considered to be in the general category of “naphtha” although naphtha hardly has a precise definition. Kerosene for that matter doesn’t either. Zen Stoves has a write up on the differences in various Petrol Fuels.

HJ
Adventures In Stoving

I also understand Coleman Fuel/knockoffs, have a much lower octane rating too, not good for auto engines, but should help us get a burner going.
I have had a DF for a couple years now, late to the dance, no issues so far, but thanks for the heads up over the filter.

I have a aftermarket silent burner, one of Gary's (berniedawg)'s Dragontamer caps. It works very well, quiet and the stove simmers very well. I've had the stove poking along simmering a stew with no attention needed, other than to look over at it once in awhile to make sure I could still see steam coming off the pot. My understanding also, it reduces the noise by quite a bit, and maybe a added benefit, reduces stove output which maybe helps with the stove being able to be throttled down and allow simmering at a nice pace.

Last weekend I used my MSR 9 with the simmer plate (medium tin can end), it didn't help much. Ended up having to hold it over the whole thing for the most part.

From my observations, Coleman Powermax fuel canisters are not any better at the fuels not separating than currently available canister fuel. I had issues with my Xtreme stove last year in the fall, I had to keep turning up the valve. I checked things out at home and the stove ran fine and the fuel by that time was warmer. I was bping in temps in the mid 20F.
Duane

I love the reactor. It is heavy, but it flat out works. Last week, it was in my pack specifically for snow melting as that was the only water available. I think I need the new 1L

Thanks for the info Jim

> Hi Jim. I’ve taken the Reactor on numerous snow camping adventures and last February me and a buddy took the Reactor, a Jetboil, MSR micro rocket, and a coleman extreme to do some non-scientific testing. At temperatures hovering at 20 degrees the Reactor was a monster. It didn’t suffer the usual glacial melting process that ordinary canisters are plagued. My trusty MSR micro rocket was a dog in that setting as I expected. The Jetboil was affected adversely as well, but my old Coleman Extreme did very well.

So the Reactor did better than the Jetboil in those conditions? Interesting. Identical fuel? And at what elevation? Was there much wind? And most importantly, which version of the Jetboil did you take?

> As for the Reactor, I’m assuming it is the internal pressure regulator and overall design efficiency that allows it to function so well in cold. However, I can’t definitively state the reasons, but perhaps some of our engineer friends can.

There are two competing theories here:
1. The regulator allows a larger aperture jet to be used safely. The larger jet size increases performance in cold weather.

2. The Reactor is conducting heat to the gas canister. The conducted heat increases performance in cold weather.

Personally, I think theory #1 is what’s behind the improved performance of the Reactor, but it could well be a combination of theories 1 and 2.

Will Rietveld notes in several places in his articles on integrated canister stoves that the stoves with regulator valves (in this case the Jetboil Sol and the MSR Reactor) did better in cold weather.
Article I
Article II

But he provides no explanation as to why.

In my testing of the Soto Microregulator (OD-1R) (see Advantages (?) of Regulator Valved Stoves), I found no material benefit to having a regulator in terms of cold weather performance.

It would seem that a regulator alone is insufficient.

Really, more testing is required to understand why the Reactor and perhaps the Jetboil Sol do better in cold weather.

HJ
Adventures In Stoving

> Coleman Powermax fuel canisters are not any better at the fuels not separating
> than currently available canister fuel.
Sorry, but wrong. The liquid in the canister is a mixture which cannot separate just to feed into the delivery tube. Just not possible.

What may have been happening is that the canister was getting colder, lowering the internal pressure. Very easy to do. Me, I let a bit of radiation from the stove hit the canister to keep it just above freezing.

Cheers

You seem to be quoting a weight difference of 6 oz. between the 1.7 and 1 liter pots. I purchased my stove in 2010 and it weighs 17.5 oz, the same as currently listed by MSR. The new 1 liter pot results in a mere 2.8 oz. savings (total stove weight = 14.7 oz.). It's probably important to point this out because I'm sure there are many possessing the post 2009 pot that is apparently lighter than the one you own. For me anyway, a 2.8 oz. savings isn't worthy of the change.

Additionally, you state that the MSR 1 liter is still heavier than Jetboil. If you actually compare the JB one liter model (Flash) the weights are within a three quarters of an ounce. You would have to either choose a smaller JB pot capacity or a titanium JB to have a lower total weight.

Yes, correct. Which is why I added the following to my original blog post:

Update 25 March 2013: MSR informs me that there is also a newer version of the 1.7L Reactor pot that has the same welded fins as the new 1.0L Reactor pot. The newer version of the 1.7L Reactor pot is lighter by about three ounces (~80g) than the original 1.7L Reactor pot. If you have the newer version of the 1.7L Reactor pot, your weight savings will not be quite as substantial if you switch to the 1.0L Reactor pot.

If you have the original 1.7 L Reactor pot, you’ll save about 6 oz if you switch to the new 1.0 L Reactor pot.

If you have a newer 1.7 L Reactor pot, you’ll save about 3 oz if you switch to the new 1.0 L Reactor pot. Definitely less of a weight savings, but some, and some space savings too. Is it worth it? Judgement call. The new 1.0 L pot is really a sweet upgrade if you have an original 1.7 L pot.

HJ
Adventures In Stoving

Note also in my component weight listings down at the bottom of my blog post that there is some variability in the weight. The unit I have is lighter that the stated weight that MSR lists.

HJ
Adventures In Stoving

<span style=””>Appendix I<span style=””> — Component Weights</span></span>

</tbody>

Update 25 March 2013:  I’ve weighed my 1.0L pot at least ten times now.  I get 172g.  I talked to MSR.  They weighed a pot there in Seattle and confirmed 197g.  That’s a difference of 25g (nearly an ounce).  I’m not sure what the issue is here.  My pot seems fine, but maybe I got an odd pot?  If I can, I’ll head to a local store and see if I can measure another pot, but these are new, so I haven’t seen them in any stores yet.  If you decide to purchase one, don’t count on your pot being 172g; it may be 197g.  Regardless of the precise weight, the system is well designed, well put together, and is clearly lighter than the original Reactor. 

Correct. But like I said I have a 2010 model 1.7 liter and it is 17.5 oz. The change occurred not in 2013 but sometime earlier in the product's life. Point being many people with the 1.7 have the lighter version already so your claim of weight savings is inaccurate for those individuals.

Well, hopefully people will read the post in it’s entirety. I put down in multiple places that newer versions of the 1.7 L pot are lighter. The 2013 update date is the date that I wrote the update, not the date that MSR changed the pot. I don’t have a date for when the pot changed.

HJ
Adventures In Stoving

One thing to add is that the burner does not nest in the 1.0l.How in the world this wasn't caught before distribution is beyond me.

Steve, the burner will nest inside the 1.0 L. pot with a small (4 oz.) fuel canister. It's described in Hikin' Jim's blog (I think that's where I saw it). It's a precise fit, and it must be done just right. But when things are packed up, there's nothing rattling around inside the pot.

Steve,

Actually it does fit, although there’s a bit of a trick to it. The burner goes in last, and you have to angle the valve spindle into the pour spout.

Full instructions are on my blog at The New, Lighter 1.0L MSR Reactor

HJ
Adventures in Stoving
Hikin Jim’s Blog

Thanks for showing us the technique, Jim. I was going nuts trying to figure out how to do it myself, and then I saw your blog post on it. I had to open the valve 1/4 turn in order to get the handle in the right spot (so I have to remember to turn it back closed before screwing the canister on).

Jim–here's my shade-tree automotive engineer take. The explanation of the evolution of automotive gasoline sounds good, but the text from the Coleman site is less…illuminating. I think it's all/only in the additives. A while ago I started disposing of my old white gas in my truck gas tank. May be only due to dilution, but no knocks heard, no rough running.

Naptha is like "benzine": precise formula varies with country where spoken. I do know from working on an oil candle stove, naptha sold here is not gasoline of any kind. It burns in a wick way cleaner than diesel or gasoline (wouldn't even try) or kerosene. Painters naptha burns cleanly….and suspiciously similarly to Lamplighter Lamp Oil–just not as scented. I think Ronsonol lighter fluid is "naphtha." Charcoal lighter too, though maybe kerosene?

Thanks for Reactor update.

I appreciate the advice on fitting the burner in the stove as well as the link to your blog.It's probably the best review I've seen on any product.

I was a bit apprehensive forcing the burner into the stove,but all appears well.It's definitely a tight fit.

Once again,thanks for the help.

I have the 1.0 liter Reactor. Love it, but I do wish they have made the pot 1 mm wider in diameter for a slightly easier time getting the burner into and out of the pot! Sheesh. Talk about fitting like a glove….