Question about MYOG synthetic quilt construction

[Ken Thompson]

I've been using binder clips with great success

[Elliott Wolin]

I've been using clothes pins for many years, I believe Jardine recommended this in the instructions for my first quilt, a RayWay kit. And a big bag of them costs only a few dollars at the big box stores.

They are also great for sealing bags of potato chips, pretzels, etc.

[And E]

What thread tension and stitch length should I use on the sewing machine for 1.1oz 30D ripstop and 5.0 Apex?

Got my insulation; fabric and whatnot comes either tomorrow or the day after.

[Christopher *]

An-D,

You are about a month ahead of me. I plan on tackling a synthetic quilt in April, so I hope you'll keep us posted on your progress and whatever little lessons you learn along the way. I have read just about every post I can find on BPL on the subject, but it seems much more personal to know you are actively constructing your quilt in real time.

Thanks.

[Erik Rasmussen]

I too am looking forward to seeing your quilt come together as I am soon starting a quilt/bag for our 9 month old daughter…

[And E]

I'll definitely keep you all posted as I make the quilt and try to give as detailed an account of the making process as possible along with pictures. :o)

One thing I'm planning to different is to sew the head end shut first and leave the foot box for last. I'm going to sew on a draw cord channel an inch or so from the expected finished edge of the head end on the outer/top fabric before sewing everything together. That way, when I cinch the quilt, there will be a sort of draft tube around my neck. I don't like the feeling of a draw cord around my neck without insulation to cushion it.

Here's some drawings… I had to make cut outs so to figure out how to orient things, like the grosgrain loops/buckles.

[And E]

Just got all my fabric, so now i have everything i need to get started.

One thing I'm currently pondering is weather to sew on fabric extension at head end or foot end.

I ordered 3 yards Lime Green (108") of 72" wide ripstop seconds so I can cut the length in half, have that be the width, and use the full roll width as my head to toe length.

I'm 5'6", so 72" is just about enough for a perfect fit after seam allowances (lets call it 70" finished… but that's assuming I make no mistakes. That also leaves me next to no foot room to stuff extra clothes on especially cold days, so i bought a yard remnant of Black 1.1 ripstop from Seattle Fabrics to sew onto the fabric I already have to extend the length.

I feel like having the black strip on the head end would be nice, since it'll hide any dirt or oil stains from my skin rubbing at the neck/collar, but the foot end would be fine too cuz then there'll be no seam in fabric near shoulders…

definitely leaning towards black at head end. There aren't any structural reasons not to, right?

[Adam Rothermich]

As someone who used velcro for the footbox of his quilt, I would advise against it. It really likes to grab onto my wool socks if I don't have it all the "hook" part covered up. Maybe omni-tape wouldn't be so grabby, but for what its worth I'm going to use snaps or a zipper the next time I make a quilt.

And I think having the extension piece at the top would look sharp. I don't think having a seam there would be noticeable. I might have to steal that idea for my next quilt too.

Adam

[And E]

Adam-

Yeah, I ordered velcro, but I went out and bought a couple packs of hand-sew on snaps instead thinking the exact same thing. Also, the machine I'll be using probably cant sew through the thick, hard velcro fabric.

Definitely feel like the black ontop is going to be awesome. Definitely will hide oil/dirt/skin rubbed off better than lime green.

The 72" wide roll 1.1 Lime Green 2nds from DIY Gear Supply is really nice. Only thing i can see is a grey thread running across the length 1.5" from each edge, and slightly lighter color final .5" of the edges.

[Jerry Adams]

I like your hand written design documents

I must admit I have a few of those laying around

[John Donewar]

An-D,

Why not use a 24" separating zipper to form the foot box and cinch it up with some shock cord threaded through the drawstring "tunnel" and a couple of toggles, one on each end of the shock cord?

I'd probably use a size 5 separating coil type zipper and some 3/16" shock cord with mini mini toggles. All of this material is available from Quest Outfitters.

http://www.questoutfitters.com/index.html

If you'd really rather snaps take a look at KamSnaps.

http://www.kamsnaps.com/Snap-Setters-Hardware/Snap-Pliers-Handheld-/KAM-Pliers-Handheld-Press-for-Plastic-Snaps-p116.html

http://www.kamsnaps.com/Product-FAQs-13.html#size

FWIW in my experience I have chosen not to use the shock cord cinching under the torso.

Party On,

Newton

[And E]

John-

Yeah, I thought about doing a zipper, but I think i'm going to stick with my snaps for now. I've already got all my stuff (shock cord, cord, mini 2 hole cord locks, snaps, grosgrain, 1/2" elastic for pad strapping system, etc) and fabric/Insulation cut out.

For straps, i'm using 1/2" super low profile plastic center release watch buckles. Female ends are going to be attached to quilt with grosgrain and the ladder lock male ends are going to point out from each other on 1/2" elastic wrapped around the pad. That way, I can tighten or loosen the quilt around me and above the pad, but it won't shift with me when I toss and turn, as I toss and turn a lot.

It'll be like the way the Katabatic quilts attach and can be tightened. Got the idea and tutorial from Amy L's double quilt attachment post:

http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=69689

except mine will use elastic so it'll have some give (i could have put the elastic on the quilt side, and use grosgrain around the pad… but i didn't think of that until after I already ordered everything, but i'm still happy).

Male ends attached, holding one of the female ends

I put some tiny pieces of 3M reflective tape on the buckles so i can see it better at night/low light.

[And E]

Any advice on thread tension and length? Gonna get sewing after classes today. Will practice with scrap pieces first of course.

[Adam Rothermich]

Thread tension is something you have to work out on your own. Just grab a couple scraps of fabric and look up one of the myriad tutorials online. If you have the manual for your machine its probably addressed in there too. Basically you want the stitches to look the same when viewed from either side of the seam.

As for stitch length, I've always used "2" on my machine. I think that's what the manual recommended for light fabrics. Or maybe I read it somewhere online, I honestly don't remember but it works fine for me.

Adam

[Jerry Adams]

Same here, I use "2" whatever that is (2 mm because Janome is European?)

For some reason, I probably use 3 or 4 if I'm going through synthetic insulation

[And E]

Thanks guys! Gonna get started putting it all together this afternoon.

Definitely wouldn't have been able to do this without everyone's input. Thanks!

[Author]

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