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SCARP 2 winter mods photos


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  • #2051313
    Franco Darioli
    Spectator

    @franco

    Locale: Gauche, CU.

    Kevin, let's keep this between the two of us…

    Henry likes to design the sort of shelters he likes to use.

    The only exception that I can think of was the SS1/2, that really was done as design challenge and I think he nailed it.

    #2051325
    Eric Blumensaadt
    BPL Member

    @danepacker

    Locale: Mojave Desert

    Please, just one more word from a geezer winter camper on winter tent design:
    (Bearing in mind 4 season tents ARE a compromise to fit all seasons, let me just talk WINTER tents here.)

    GOALS OF WINTER TENTS:

    1.Safety in storms -> i.e strength and reliability
    2.Lightest feasable weight-> lighest SAFE materials in poles and fabrics given expected max winds and snow load.

    Given these two main goals designers have found that MINIMIZING UNSUPPORTED FABRIC AREAS creates stronger tents for both wind and snow load. Thus the geodesic dome's popularity in high altitude mountainering. Great shape and great strength.

    BUT, geodesic domes are weighty due to all the poles and their attatchment points.

    THERFORE tunnel tents, the next best winter tent shape (IMHO), reduce weight but increaase unsupported area, losing some strength.

    Hilleberg has designed UNEQUAL HEIGHT tunnel tent hoops to help gain strength and aerodynamics at the cost of some interior head room. Probably the best we can hope for in design compromise. They also use one or two CROSSING POLES to give strength in some tents. Agin, a compromise, adding weight for additional safety.

    As Eric Chan quoted, "There's no such thing as a free lunch."

    The reason I like the Scarp design is that it IS a compromise but one that has flexibility of design with the option of crossing poles for bad weather. It works fine either way, depending on weather.

    Tent design advances have utilized new fabrics (Cuben and silnylon, for ex.) and new pole technology (DAC and CF poles and aluminum and polymer pole connectors and attatchment points). Perhaps better lightweight waterproofing is on the way. Perhaps better closures than the current nylon zippers are coming too.
    With these advances in lower weight materials, clever pole configuration and out-of-the-box shapes we are far ahead of the EUREKA! Timberline wedge tent of the '70s.

    Ain't tent design FUN?!

    #2149945
    Jef Davis
    BPL Member

    @davisjef

    Locale: NEO

    This is fascinating. Recently picked up a modded Scarp 2 on BPL. Mods are similar to those shown, (i.e., cross-pole shortening to terminate at the apex of the struts) but remain exterior to the fly.

    What is the benefit of moving the poles under the fly?

    Thanks!

    #3416929
    Eric Blumensaadt
    BPL Member

    @danepacker

    Locale: Mojave Desert

    Jef,

    Well, this reply is a loooong time coming since I haven’t read this thread in a while.

    But let me say that moving the poles under the fly gives the fly much more support than the exterior attachment points do. Plus this arrangement does away with concentrating strain on the exterior attachment points.

    To reduce the fly chafing on the X-ing poles I’ve added two more interior Velcro wraps sewn to the original X-ing pole Hypalon attachment point circles higher up so that now all these attachment points have Velcro wraps. Next I’ll re-coat the fly along the X-ing pole paths but this time with heavier SilCoat from a tube.

    I’ve already added 4 fly hem stake loops as I’ve discovered with my Moment DW that nailing down the fly hem is crucial in reducing flapping. And flapping flys will wear on the X-ing poles.

    I seriously doubt my modded Scarp II will have problems with either gale force winds or snow load but time will tell. I now have enough SMC snow stakes for every eventuality including hem stakes and 4 guy lines. Guy lines with LineLoc tensioners have been prepared and color coded with the longer red TripTease lines going to the end guys where they attach to my ski pole handles via a clove hitch and go down to the ground to the stake.

    I also feel that burying the fly hem a few inches into the  compacted base area will deal with keeping out most spin drift except at the doors. Also I’ve added special elastic cord at each end vent to keep the zipper pulls CLOSED!

    Can’t wait to ride out a big snow storm in this tent. :o) Last time it barely snowed.

    Eric B.

     

    #3467652
    Eric Blumensaadt
    BPL Member

    @danepacker

    Locale: Mojave Desert

    NOTE;

    I have not had high winds when using my modded Scarp 2 at altitude in winter. Worst snow was only 6 inches so not a test of snow load – so far.

    BUT… I did test the Scarp 2 on a day with recorded 55 – 65 mph gusts and steady 40 mph winds here in Henderson Nevada. (Highest recorded gust was 77 mph at the ‘Vegas airport. Flights were grounded for 5 hours.)

    In that test I used 2 side guy lines on the main hoop (heavy, winter version from Tentpole Technology) and two end guys on my hiking poles & down to stakes and found the tent fly did not flap. None of the poles bent under the gusts. These guy lines are absolutely necessary for high winds. Make them up ahead of time.

    However, I will say that the “no fly flapping” is as much the result of having 4 fly edge stake loops staked down well as it is from the special poles and guy lines. All three systems work together and must be used together for a good night’s sleep. I sewed on my fly hem stake loops but now Henry says they come as standard from the factory. They are a must for high winds.

     

     

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