Frames and hipbelt connections, generally,  and Osprey Hornet

Any solutions to this?

I am curious because I have a similar issue with my Osprey Poco child carrier. I can get weight transfer, but have to tighten the hip belt uncomfortably so to get it, due to a flexible hip belt and a flexible connection to the flexible mesh back panel (rather than to the very rigid frame). The pack tends to sag a bit, and I'd like to correct it if possible.

Not an uncommon issue.

The Hornet 46s I've seen have the delrin rods not quite going all the way to the bottom of the packbag. This will create a hinge point, which will pry outward on the hipbelt. If the rods went all the way to the outside corners this would be solved, though Osprey would then have to reinforce the bottom corners more.

The other issue here is the lack of lumbar anchoring. The rods can't be shaped to fit into the curve of your back, nor is there padding to serve the same purpose.

In short, improving the load transfer would require a fairly substantial change in the design.

This is the problem with almost all 'frameless with a frame' designed packs – frames that rotate away from your back, due to lack of rigidity and solid connection to the hipbelt. This was an issue with the GG Gorilla, for example.

Personally, I'd stay away from any 'removable frame system', as they tend to have poor connections to the hipbelt. i.e. ZPacks, GG, ULA, Zimmerbuilt, etc. Better to go with a major manufacturer if you need a frame. Osprey's heavier packs like the Exos do a good job. BD has some solid framed packs as well, as does Mammut.

It's unfortunately the lightweight pack designers haven't done a better job in this regard. I tried to get Chris Zimmer at Zimmerbuilt to do one with a solid connection to the hipbelt, but he didn't want to stray from his frame design.

With a frame, you don't just need to reduce collapse of the pack, you also need to reduce rotation away from the back – keeping the shoulder strap attachments quite close to your shoulders, without having to tighten the straps.

A centrally-attached conical hipbelt (different radius for the top and bottom cuts) and a contoured frame that connects directly to the center of the hipbelt is the best way of doing this.

There's a huge room for improvement in this respect, IMO.

Brian, I am going to have to disagree with regards to the frame/hipbelt situation. I found the load transfer to be excellent with the ULA Ohm 2.0. The weakness there for me was that the straight, peripheral rods kept the pack from fitting me well. I've also tried the GG Gorilla, and I found the hoop stay to be robust for load transfer. My problem with that pack was not the stay system but that the hipbelt was too insubstantial–especially where it connected with the packbag.

I think that the removable stay system works very well for even heavier loads. Keep in mind that the HMG Porter series has removable stays, and it has been recently reviewed up to 40+ lbs. I haven't taken my own Porter that high yet, but it has been very solid with all the weight I've thrown in it.

I would agree that a wrap-around hipbelt is much better than any kind of wing-style belt like the Hornet uses. But you don't need to attach the frame to the center of the belt. That certainly works, but there are other methods for getting the load transfer you need. As Dave mentioned above, lumbar support is huge.

Personally, having tried on packs from most UL manufacturers, I find hipbelt design to be a far more significant problem in the cottage industry. Granite Gear and ULA have the best hipbelts in my opinion, and the HMG Ice Pack belt is a very close second.

>My problem with that pack was not the stay system but that the hipbelt was too insubstantial–especially where it connected with the packbag.

Clayton, this meshes with the thread I started:

http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=73152&skip_to_post=624509#624509

I think UL pack manufactures need to devote a little R&D into the hip belt.

Travis–I saw that thread. It was a great discussion. I seriously considered an air beam frame, but decided that I prefer the aluminum stay solution. One of my major goals this year is to simplify my kit, and it just didn't mesh well with that solution.

Honestly, one of the first things I judge in a pack is the hipbelt. If that isn't well-made, then I don't even worry about weighing in on the rest of the suspension. A strong, simple but light hipbelt is a thing of beauty. Even though I ended up disliking the Granite Gear Crown a fair bit, Dan Cruikshank does know how to make a hipbelt.