Modifying a GG Kumo…

I would sew small grosgrain (ribbon) loops to the bottom of the pack. One pair near the seam where the pad sleeve starts. If you're fancy you can open up that seam and resew it with the loops. I would just sew or even hand stitch close to the seam, won't look good but will work just as well.

Then sew in two Line Locks with more ribbon near the front of the pack, near the Ice Axe loop. Run some guyline through the linelocks and tie the end off at the loop you sewed by the backpanel.

Cordlocks would work in lieu of Line Locks.

You could also try rigging the top bungie cord to go from the side compression down to the bottom of the pack. No sewing that way.

A Kumo is the same pattern as the Murmur,' cept more durable cloth is used.

The outside pad pocket works for a pad keeper. The limitation with those packs is the thickness. The thickness determines how many layers you can add. How many layers determines the length of the pad. The most I have been able to get in the pad pocket is about 2.5". This means that the center of gravity is pushed outwards, but, with the light 20pound loading, this isn't much of a problem.

I use a 5 layer NightLite pad cut to nest the "bumps". This means you can get them into the pad pocket. The caveat is you might need extra long shoulder/hip straps. The 5 layers comes to about 52" all told. Each segment is cut at 10.25". Fanfolding and nesting the bumps means the nominal 3/4" pad only needs about 1" for two layers. After 3-4 uses it will squash down to about 2.25" total…it gets easier to pack. The duct tape holds up pretty well, at least 60 nights. It will also act as a good frame for the pack when hiking, doing double-duty.

Anyway, you wanted attachment points for a pad/tent.
I DO NOT recommend opening the seams. Between the factory stitching, and the biasing tape used inside the GG packs, this can turn into a lot of work. I use cord for loops. Paracord is a bit heavy. 1.5mm cord is about right.

Get some self stick nylon patches from the sewing shop and to reinforce the area you want the loop inside. The self stick is easy to work with, it stays put. Choose a location about 1/2" away from any factory seam. (This might be a good time to reinforce the factory seams inside with a second row of stitching about 1/16" away from the factory seam. Especially the shoulder harness/strap mounts.) After choosing a location, poke a pin through it to insure placement inside and mark center on the outside with a marker.

Stick the patch on and sew it around the perimiter. Then stitch an "X" across the inner surface of the patch. The goal is to create a reinforced area of nylon/pack cloth about 1" to 1-1/2" square.

Carefully mark for two tiny holes about 1/8" from the center mark; left & right, or, top & bottom…it doesn't really matter.

Then heat a paper clip with a lighter and punch the hole, working it around to expand it to about 1.5-2mm. If the paper clip is very hot, it will open by itself. As it cools, you can work around slightly. Do the second hole. Do NOT clean the slight build up off…it will act as a cheatin' growmet. The ends will all be heat sealed so there will be no fraying, and, the two pieces of fabric will be sealed together at the holes, reinforcing this area.

On the outside, you will end up with 2 small, growmet-like holes(about 2mm-the size of the cord) seperated by about 1/4" material with the "X" from the reinforcement patch stitching passing between them. This is sort-of precise work.

Pass your cord through the loops and tie it off. The loop itself should NOT hang out beyond the bottom of the pack. Setting it down, they can catch on leaves and other debris. Large loops can catch on branches or sticks while bushwacking. Keep them small enough to avoid this. After tieing the cord loop off, heat the ends to melt them and prevent them from coming loose. If you are worried about waterproofness, you can seal these with a dab of silicone caulk, inside and out.

I don't care for floppy things on my pack, so, you will probably need four loops on the pack to stabilize any load placed there. Using a seperate cord on each loop lets you use them for whatever you want to. Tying the loops together will act as compression on the pack.

It will add about 1oz of weight. Worth it, if you need have the extra space available.

Thanks Tyler, That's kinda what I was envisioning. Don't want to open up the seams since that seems like I may cause other issues…thought about stitching the loops on and using line locks to tighten the load

James, sounds like you know what you're doing! Unfortunately I'm a little confused, sounds like you are saying that I need to make small reinforced holes in an area that I've reinforced with a patch that I'm going to pass the cord into and tie a knot on the inside so that it doesn't come out…are you saying that I do that on the both ends of the cord or is that just one side and than the other side has a tie out with a line lock or something? thanks for the help!

"James, sounds like you know what you're doing! Unfortunately I'm a little confused, sounds like you are saying that I need to make small reinforced holes in an area that I've reinforced with a patch that I'm going to pass the cord into and tie a knot on the inside so that it doesn't come out…are you saying that I do that on the both ends of the cord or is that just one side and than the other side has a tie out with a line lock or something? thanks for the help!"

Sorry. Typically, such writing is always a bit on the difficult side. Basically you need four loops in the pack. The description was for one loop. Each loop is short, maybe about as big around as a finger or thumb. To these pack loops, you can add longer lengths of cord…whatever you need to tie something on. I rarely use this system anymore because my gear is small enough that it fits into a Murmur for trips up to about 10 days. The Murmur and Kumo are identical for space.

I often have several cord sections in my pack about 16"-24" long. They have a loop already tied to the one end. Somewhere near the middle, I simply hitch them to the pack loop. Then I use a smaller one to cinch it tight to the pack. Example: Starting at the pad pocket side, I tie the 16" loop around the tent. Then I add a second to the front, pulling the hung tent towards the "front pouch" side, effectivly stopping it from swaying. You can do the same at the top. The tent and pad mounted outside will give you all sorts of room for food. Indeed, you have to watch out for overloading more than for space.

After looking at the back more and not really being a DIYer I was wondering if there was somewhere I could send the pack and they could add the straps for me? Thanks!

I'd recommend this company:
http://www.specialtyoutdoors.com/

Heard good things about them.