“Winter” Northern Presidential Traverse Gear List

[Jonathan Ryan]

So I never see anyone submit a gear list for any severe condition alpine climbing so I figured this a good time to submit my list for my 1 day Northern Presidential Traverse this weekend. Granted it is no longer calender winter, it is still winter up in northern New Hampshire.

Clothing Worn
Ibex Woolies + Icebreaker 260 Bodyfit
Ibex boxer breifs + Long Johns (merino wool)
Patagonia Krushell
Ibex Solitude pants
smartwool liner gloves
Mtn Hardwear Torsion gloves
Smartwool long ski sock + liner
Patagonia Balaclava (worn as hat for approach)
Clothing Carried
Mountain Hardwear Zero Mitts
Smith Goggles
Smartwool neck gaiter
Patagonia Micropuff vest
Patagonia Puff Jacket + Wild Things EP pants
Golite powerstretch fleece hoody

Gear
Golite Jam2
Petzl Zipka + / Fenix L0D1 CE
Black Diamond Raven Pro axe
Grivel G12 crampons
1 Platypus 80oz + 1 Nalgene w/ OR insulated cover
Snowclaw Shovel
Life-Link Trekking poles
Polar HR Monitor
Olympus Stylus 500
BPL Ti Esbit stove + MSR titan kettle + 6 tabs (used only as emergency warmth)
MSR Denali snowshoes

I am not sure how many alpine climbers are on this site, but this would be a great article for a future Wednesday update.

[Jonathan Ryan]

I will also be carrying a small Sigg thermos with some hot ramen noodles.

[Lloyd Graves]

What about boots? Are you going saturday?

[Chris Jackson]

Do you carry a foam pad in case you have to spend the night in a snowcave? Other things that might be nice to have: spare glove liners, spare socks, VBL socks?

[Jonathan Ryan]

good point, I forgot my boots. I use Makalu's and I do use a Vapr Barrier liner. As for the foam pad, my hiking partner carries a Zrest 3/4. In case of an emergency bivy we have a space blanket, snowsclaws to dig a pit of cave and our Belay clothing.

[Lloyd Graves]

I'll be up there tomorrow so if I see you i'll say "hi".

[Brett .]

Jonathan, I am just getting into mountaineering and assembling a basic kit suitable for class3, 4, and 5. Are you taking a rope and rack, if so what; or are you going to class3 it all?

http://www.14ers.com/classes.html

[Jonathan Ryan]

The route I am taking through the Whites is pretty tame in terms of exposure so there is no real need for any technical equipment. In the past I have done some backcountry climbing routes in the Whites where I probably should have used a belay, but it worked out fine without it. If I were climbing Huntington Ravine or somthing of that difficulty, I would def bring protection.

[Jonathan Ryan]

Lloyd Graves: in my past life I was a mountain biker so I have def heard your name. My freind that I am going with has a Crown Jewel so if you see us I am pretty sure he would want to shake your hand…

[Beth Correira]

I would definately add a Gortex/Paclite or other WB shell with a good hood and WB pants. Softshells are great but they just cannot stand up to the roaring winds on Washington. Snow, sleet, and rain is also possible up there regardless of the time of year and the later will be problematic with softshells. You may also want to throw in a wool hat (dedicated for use as a hat, a compass, and map.

[Thomas Tait]

Nice to see some climbers on here. I have been experimenting with light weight gear for some time. Nothing worse than lugging a bunch of heavy gear to high altitude.

Here's my non-technical winter day trip gearlist:

Clothing worn:

Hydro-Dri shorts
Smartwool microweight crew and bottom
Marmot DriClime jacket
Patagonia guide pants
OR Option balaclava
REI One glove
Columbia Ice Dragon boots
Synthetic liner socks under Smartwool socks

Clothing Carried:

Patagonia Ready Mix jacket
Patagonia DAS parka
Cheap wool hat from Old Navy
Patagonia Micropuff mittens
Climb High Gortex mitten shells

Gear:

Leki extreme poles
MSR Denali snowshoes
Golite speed pack
Petzl Tikka XP
Snowclaw shovel
Nalgene Cantene 32 oz(2)
Sony Cybershot
Emergency bag (TP, whistle, matches, mole skin, aspirin)
Magellan Sport Trak GPS
Scott goggles

The gear above is for a day trip in winter above 10,000 ft with no technical features and good weather with temps not below around 10F. I will change boots and add crampons, ice axe for more technical climbs. It's pretty light (I should weight it all some day) compared to my old setup.

I do not use the Golite speed for full technical ascents. The gear is just too heavy and sharp for it. I am in the market for a new winter technical pack any suggestions? I use a Dana Designs Shadow Peak pack now but it has seen better days. What is lightweight, takes punishment and not void of features for hanging climbing gear?

[ROBERT TANGEN]

Re: "What is lightweight, takes punishment and not void of features for hanging climbing gear?" If price is not a factor, have you checked out the Wild Things Andinista? The version made from all Spectra Cloth is near indestructable.

[Jeroen Wesselman]

What about the Wild Things Icesack with Bullit Pocket.
This would be my climbing pack of choice, I am saving up for one. Simple, relatively lightweight and really made for climbing..no compromises here.
Wild Things makes some great gear!

Great to see more lightweight alpine climbers on BPL.

Next winter around Christmas I will be in new England as well and will try the Presidential traverse as well. I was also formulating my own gearlist and there are a lot of similarities with the two posted above. Seems that there are more people thinking alike.

Enjoy the good climbing in the Whites…greetings from a springy Amsterdam-The Netherlands.

[Frank Deland]

Was 2 nalgene bottles enough water? Cannot think of any water sources available on that route in winter. Should a stove/fuel for melting snow be part of emergency gear? It would take quite a few esbit tablets. One tablet boils two cups of water in the summer. Also, I would carry a bivy sack. My fear of carrying just a space blanket would be wind. Getting inside a bivy rather than just a wrap-around would be safer.

[Jonathan Ryan]

The Spectra Andinista, it is a pretty bombproof pack that will last you forever as long as you are willing to pay $750 bucks. I would go for a McHale Windsauk or Subpop. The Jam 2 was wonderful even with 25lbs. It is def my new goto pack for just about everything I do.

[kevin davidson]

The climbing pack I'm waiting for is the upcoming Cilogear Spectra pack—-
http://www.cilogear.com/packs/spectra.shtml. A pack designed by an Alpinist for Alpinists.

I still have and use and love my 80's vintage Wild Things Andinista (not spectra) that was personally blessed by the late Mugs Stump ( the designer). I've been luckier than him (so far).

[Robert Mohid]

I've done many winter summits on washington and related gully climbs in softshell with zero problems in subzero conditions and in gusts over 100mph.

Granted I wouldn't take a very light shell like a cloudveil prospector or something made of only a single layer of 3xdry, but heavier softshells shells made out of powerstretch or wb-400 work fine and will keep you drier.

I usually have a mec hyjinx shell with an expedition base layer 95% of the time and throw on a belay parka on top when I stop moving. I've even overnighted with this rig in a -7c bag in a collapsed snowcave on the gulf of slides and survived with no premaments injuries, although it's not a bivy setup i would recommend.

[Robert Mohid]

Ryan,

From your setup, it looks like you're counting on being able to find enough snow to make a cave if you get nailed and are forced to bivy.

The weather is so weird now, I never know what the hell I will find up there. Is there a secret to your confidence in finding the right kind of snow up there at the end of march?

[Author]

Posts