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Dyneema ripstop vs Cordura Durability
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Home › Forums › Gear Forums › Make Your Own Gear › Dyneema ripstop vs Cordura Durability
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Sep 16, 2012 at 6:33 am #1294122
Posted this on the gear forum a few days ago, but no responses yet…
Does anyone know how the durability of 210 denier Dyneema ripstop compares to 210 denier Cordora non ripstop ?
Ie: does the 210 denier Cordura non ripstop used for the bottom of the Granite Gear Vapor Trail or Blaze show any less rock abrasion scuffs or small stick holes than the 210 Dyneema ripstop used for the Golite, MLD, or SMD packs?
Thanks.
Sep 16, 2012 at 8:49 am #1912666I wouldn't think there'd be a huge difference is straight abrasion resistance, provided the plain cordura is as tight a weave as the Gripstop. Not all corduras are created equal. The dyneema fibers do a good job of keeping holes that do exist small.
Sep 16, 2012 at 5:36 pm #1912813The weird thing is that the 210 Cordura seems to be made of thicker threads than the 210 dyneema ripstop. Maybe 50% thicker (315 denier-ish), even though it says it's 210 denier.
It's somehow more 3-D textured than standard 420 denier pack cloth, even though it doesn't seem like a loose weave. The 210 dyneema ripstop is almost smooth between the ripstop threads, but 50% thinner.
So which one do you thick will show less rock abrasion scuffs and pin holes ?
Thanks.
Sep 16, 2012 at 7:44 pm #1912832John,
Seem to recall that denier has more to do with the weight, rather than the size of fibers. Franco has the definition – maybe he will post it again.From my experience, the Cordura will be more abrasion resistant, as it is made from fibers tougher than most other nylons, and the material between many of the spectra and dyneema gridstops is not Cordura nylon. There are balloon cloth nylons that are very tough, but I have no reason to believe they are used on any of the dyneema gridstops.
However, every weight of Cordura I've used, from silnylon up to 10 oz., has not had a very good coating. Waterproofing was no better than average, and the coatings wore off faster than those on other nylons with high quality coatings.
Pick your poison.
Or for a pack bottom, bond in a high hydrostatic head material. For the packs I'm working on now, the bottoms are lined with Thru-Hiker's silnylon, sewn and bonded in place. But I've given up bathtub pack bottoms, as I take much better care of my lightweight gear than before, and the main pack fabrics when well sealed are water resistant enough to keep water out if the pack somehow gets set down in water; like slipping and falling when fording a stream, for example.
Sep 17, 2012 at 8:33 am #1912922From what I understand cordura is a special nylon fiber woven a special way for durability. Most fabrics used on packs that have 210d weight fabric are using taffeta not cordura and it not as tough as a true cordura. So make sure it cordura fiber and not taffeta.
210D cordura was traditionally used on heavy weight clothes for example pants but now in the light weight backpacking market it being used in pack construction also.
The cordura will keep ripping and and will fraying under the load of the pack contents if not repaired right away.
Now the Dyneema ripstop and other ripstop fabric is tougher that plain cordura if you catch your pack on sharp stick the stick will quit ripping at dyneema ripstop grid that is stronger than other ripstops.
Both Dyneema ripstop and ripstop will no longer rip even under the weight load in your pack you don't need to repair the fabric right away. Because the ripstop cross sections has stooped the rip at the initial point of the rip.
Link to Packs that use 210d Cordura brand ripstop:
http://www.cordura.com/en/outdoor-products/nonmilitary-granite-gear_fp.htmlTerry
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