Topic

Suggested MYOG backpack mods?

  • This topic is empty.
Viewing 5 posts - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
Zero Flight BPL Member
PostedAug 9, 2012 at 8:47 pm

I'm new to the MYOG scene and about to make my first backpack. I plan on using the G4 as a starting point, to learn the ropes if you will. But after I get a feel for how it goes, I'll be looking to start modding the design to suit me.

Mostly I'm hammock camping (Hennessy with snake skin) on trips lasting no more than a couple of days at most so I don't plan to use a full sleeping pad; maybe just adding something for a little back support, I haven't decided. Cooking gear is currently just my heat source and an old camping coffee pot (deep, lightweight, pour spout, lid, strainer on the spout… it's awesome). One, maybe two trekking poles.

I have an old external frame, which is great except for the main body. It's extremely lightweight for an external with a fantastic support (straps, breathable back, etc.) but the body itself hardly holds anything and is . So one of the mods I'll look at is attaching fasteners to the new pack so I can attach it to the external frame if I need to carry a heavier load.

Suggestions I've read about so far:
1) Replace the side mesh with criss-crossed shock cord.

2) Change the baggy mesh to profiled elastic mesh that snaps back to the pack.

3) Incorporate a small pouch at the top (by the neck) to hold a sewn-in rain cover or to hold a combo rain cover/poncho.

What else can you folks think of that would be great?

Thanks in advance.

James Marco BPL Member
PostedAug 10, 2012 at 4:58 am

Yeah there are lots of ways to mod a framed pack.

After marking all pins, strap locations, etc, Remove everything and cut all extranious stuff off the frame and clean all cut edges with sanpaper. This will lighten the frame as much as possible for your fit.

Sew up a silnylon "bag" about 36" X 12" x 8" with a lid. Basically, you are making a single larger body for the pack that will suit you better. Figure out what pockets you need and add these too. Add some 1" climbing strap where you will be mounting the new body. and carfully heat a nail and melt holes for the pins through these straps. An 8d nail usually works, OK. Not too big. You want the plastic to melt around all the strapping hardening the holes and bonding to the strap.

Reattach everything, and you should be good to go. Clipping off any overly long straps, maybe adding a few loops for attacments, etc. I use 1.4mm cord for any attachments. It is sufficient for most anything you carry, I've found. Strapping is way overdone. Basically you can save about 1-2 pounds changing out the pack, and stuff for a MYOG one. On a 5 pound pack, this can be significant. And you really did nothing to the frame, if you were carfull. So you could load it with game if you hunt.

Pack covers do not work well. They leak a bit, then trap moisture inside, wetting everything a bit. I far prefer an interior dry space, usually provided by a garbage bag. And a series of bags inside, a waterproof food bag is usually wanted as a bear bag and food bag. I use a compression bag for my sleeping bag. This also holds my sleeping cloths. Just shake your sleeping bag out good before sleeping in it. I fit everything in a GG Murmur (2012), at ~2200ci, for a week. The weight difference is a LOT. 9oz vs 64oz (best case.) With light gear, that is really all you need. I do not consider myself UL, with about 9-11 pounds base weight. A lot of people here push far less. 10 pounds is the official cut off. Volume, weight are the two most important criteria for packing.

Rather that fooling with the external framed pack, I would suggest another pack. It would cause less work and not be that much more expensive, compared with what you need to buy to rebuild your framed pack. If you do a lot of hunting, it makes sense to have a good, framed pack, though, minimizing carry weight as much as possible.

I would suggest joining the Yahoo Backpackinglight group and asking that question there. Cara Lin does what you are trying to do and might have more sugestions.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BackpackingLight
Don Ladigin (Lighten Up), Glen Van Peski(GG), Jerry Groller(BPGT), and others pop in from time to time.

Zero Flight BPL Member
PostedAug 10, 2012 at 8:17 am

I should clarify, I don't intend to permanently attach it to the frame but rather attach only when I need the extra sturdiness. For general hiking/camping it would not be attached but for more intense usage, such as carrying game like you said. If it proves too awkward to work with or breaks down the integrity of the pack then I'll look at going with separate frame and frameless packs like you suggest.

Those are definitely some handy things to know on the procedures. That's also good to know about the cover though I thought they whole point was to keep the moisture out and not leak.

Design-wise, the Murmur is similar to what I want to end up at but according to GG it's not designed to handle loads over 15lbs. So I guess that means the Gorilla is where I'm trying to get to. I'd buy the Gorilla but for $225 I'd rather see if I can make my way there.

Any suggestions on types pockets?

Jim L BPL Member
PostedAug 10, 2012 at 10:12 am

Wander around the galleries on the McHale Packs site. If you add your own experiences and desires to the accumulated expertise and experiences of BPL and stir it with the incredible range of ideas you'll see on McHale packs you'll have a pretty good start on whatever is perfect for you.

Jim

James Marco BPL Member
PostedAug 10, 2012 at 10:57 am

"Any suggestions on types pockets?"

I have used a bunch of diffent packs, with and without pockets. I have pretty much settled on 3 or 4 pockets as being the best combination of usability and light weight. They add a bit more weight to a pack, but packing is far easier. Too many bags causes some difficulty on the trail. You alsways have to drop the pack to get water, for instance. An internal hydration sleeve is handy, though I never use it as such. It gets my stakes, pot lid, spoon, aluminum foil, cone (if needed), and other flat items. It also serves to hold some garbage and extra baggies I generate on the trail. Usually I stomp this fairly flat before loding it in.

Material is generally silnylon. It slips by scrub and brush a bit easier than other types and is light enough to only add about an ounce of weight. Mesh works pretty well, but not too fine, it grabs on leaves and scrub, though. Dynema is the most durable, but also causes friction when bushwacking. It handles "pokers" better than silnylon, though.

Buckles seem to be an issue these days with some GG packs. I would ask about them first. I believe that a heavier strap or somewhat tighter buckle will be needed to insure they work. I don't have any problems with the Murmur, though. Grant or Mike may just shrug it off.

Right hand pocket: I get my stove, fuel, cup, and tarp in the right hand pocket. Larger, nearly full length. Often my fishing rod goes in there, too.

Center Pocket: Muesh is good here. Mostly I use this for temporary packing. Stuff, like my fleece shurt, I need in the morning, but not later. It also holds my lunch snacks and rain gear. Sometimes I put my wet socks hanging half way out, I have not lost one in over 10 years, so this is OK. In spring, with all the black flies and mosquitoes, I put my mesh tent in there too.

Left Hand Pockets: 2 on this side; One, the lower one, is used for two .5liter water bottles and with my wife, her cup. The upper pocket is used for trail garbage I pick up and is usually lined with a 1 quart zip lock. Most plastic bits, wrappers, etc I pick up goes here. Cans get stomped flat and put there. Also, in a separate baggie, is my water treatment and crystal lite packets.

My food goes inside over my bag. One is a bear bag and the other is my pillow. My sleeping pad is used as part of the frame and is external in pad pockets. In colder weather, ~32-40F, I bring a large DWR, synthetic jacket, gortex I think. This fits inside on top and rolled into my pot. The ditty bag is small enough to go most anywhere, inside.

No zippers or flap covered pockets. I really don't care if that stuff gets wet. My pad is closed cell foam and doesn't absorb much water. Nothing else much matters, except it can pick up some water weight, especially the mesh tent. But a shake or two before setting it up works fine to make it fairly dry. Note that there are really no extra cloths. Nor extra precautions about water, 'cept the rain jacket.

I developed this system for canoing mostly, but it works really well for packing too. I believe most people do about the same and this is not the only way to do things. With a larger volume pack than I need (harder going in the ADK's) I use a an open sleeping bag and sleeping cloths. Anyway, At around 8-9 pounds, this covers my base hiking kit. I often bring a SVEA, and a second pair of spare socks. This boosts the weight up to about 9-10 pounds. With a 1#8 jacket this makes it just under 11 pounds, if I drop my fishing gear. Good to about 32F, perhaps a little lower, but not much. In the High Peaks I drop the SVEA & fishing gear and bring a bear ball. I am still at around 11#, base. Food for two nights with a partner usually goes about 5 pounds. Solo for two weeks, food goes about 16pounds (foraging on the trail as I go.) I use a Miniposa for that. For a week it is right around 8 pounds.

Viewing 5 posts - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
Loading...