Utah in May: Coyote Gulch, Zion Traverse, Dark Canyon Wilderness, Ruins and Rock art
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Coyote Gulch
Coyote Gulch is located in the Grand-Staircase Escalante National Monument. One of the bonuses is that Escalante area is BLM land. This means you can camp anywhere and there are know entry fees, campsite fees, or permits necessary.
After car-camping off of Hole-in-the-rock Rd. (of which the distance markers are in kilometers for some reason), my friend Cody and I set out for Coyote Gulch. We started at the Hurricane Wash trailhead, and after a few hours hiking through the scrubby wash, we entered the Gulch. This was my first time hiking in these region of the US, and the scenery was stunning to me.
We picked a scenic campsite with great views. But in the middle of setting up, we were hit by a freak dust storm. It was intense, with one painful whirlwind after another. It was impossible to pitch under such conditions, so we found a more sheltered site. Everything was covered in thick layer of dust, and unfortunately my camera was exposed during the storm and did not survive it. From this point all all my photos were taken by my iPhone, which is a real shame!
The next day we hiked to and from the confluence of the Escalante river. On the way we passed by a group of extremely over-packed Germans. Our ultra-lite setups were in such stark contrast to their unwieldily external frame packs with huge pots and pans and roll up pads dangling off of them.
We also encountered a person whom I have politically incorrectly dubbed "The Mormon Space Man". He was outfit in reflective material from head-to-toe. He said he was testing out his own line of experimental outerwear for desert environs.
We hiked out the next day, and I vow to return to the Escalante region.
Some photos below, with more here
Moving through the wash before entering the Gulch.
Nearing the confluence
Cody dwarfed by the canyon wall
Jacob Hamblin Arch
We set up camp under here
Little falls, refreshing shower
Scrambling back to campZion Traverse
Our next destination was Zion NP to traverse the park from Lee's Pass to the East Rim Trailhead. A 48 miler. We car-camped in a beautiful spot outside of Springdale which I highly recommend if you want to avoid Watchmen Campground in the park itself. The next day after stashing the car at the end of our journey, we hitched a ride back into the park. We were lucky enough to be picked up by a friendly ranger. All was well until a German tourists $600, 000 Shelby Supercar EXPLODED in the tunnel, closing down the park. For more on that, click here. Luckily, another ranger offered to drive us the long way round the back, which took us through the ultra-creepy polygamist town of Colorado City, of Warren Jeffs fame.
The hike itself was absolutely breathtaking. The variation of environment and climate experienced each day, each hour, was nearly psychedelic. We had a couple challenging nights with extremely high winds that threatened to blow our shelters away, though luckily we remained unscathed. This is one of the challenges of a multi-day trek in an NP, where you have to book your campsites ahead of time, snot knowing how ideal they are. One of our sites was at the edge of the rim, completely exposed to wind and cold. It was on this trip that my Lightheart Solo started to fail on me. until it was rendered almost completely unusable.
I consider this trek as a sort of rite-of-passage. It's challenging, though not distractingly so with an ultra-light get-up. I absolutely recommend it.
Some photos below, with more here
Car camping the night before
Lee's Pass Trailhead
Entering Bear Trap Canyon
Bear Trap falls, flipping freezing!
View from the West Rim
Where's the trail?
The descent
The quintessential view of Zion ValleyDark Canyon Wilderness
Cody and I parted ways and I head to Blanding, UT. This was a solo mission deep into the Dark Canyon Wilderness of Manti-La Sal Forest. I shared this wild trail with bear, cougar, wildcat and other unseen beings. An unexpected encounter with ancient ruins and artefacts made this a transcendental experience.
This was my first time in a wilderness area, and it was definitely a challenge staying on course, and map and compass skills really came in handy. I ended up doing around 30 miles in the wilderness, spending 3 days. I would have spent longer and explored more, but I was ill-prepared in the map department and the water sources were extremely dry. I will return to explore young's and lean-to canyon as well as Fable Canyon.
Some photos below, with more here
No turning back
Entering the canyon, looks like a cathedral
ancient pottery, it felt powerful to hold it in my hand
A nice place for lunch
An early moon
Spotted this ruin from the bottom of the canyon. Was a challenging scramble up to it. once confronted with it up close I was speechless
And surprised by the pictographs above it
view from the ruinRuins and Rock Art
After my encounter with the ruins and artifacts in Dark Canyon, I was bit by the archeology bug. I spent the next few days day-hiking to ruins and rock art in the area. Some of these are truly seldom seen (especially the Doll House), their locations only revealed after gaining the trust of the locals. They are understandably cagey about revealing the locations, as vandalism, unintentional or otherwise, leads to their destruction. Hiking to ruins is one of my new favorite things.
Some photos below, with more here
Car camping at Bear's Ears Pass
This is one of the most pristine and seldom seen ruins in Utah.
1000 year old corn
Under Sipapu Bridge at Natural Bridges Monument
Horse Collar Ruin at Bridges Monument
Rock Art in Ute territory. Known as the Walnut Knob
Double Helix, Shay Canyon, Canyonlands
Warring hockey players, Shay Canyon, Canyonlands
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