Topic

MYOG synthetic quilt w/ pictures.


Forum Posting

A Membership is required to post in the forums. Login or become a member to post in the member forums!

Home Forums Gear Forums Make Your Own Gear MYOG synthetic quilt w/ pictures.

  • This topic is empty.
Viewing 19 posts - 1 through 19 (of 19 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #1290737
    Jake D
    BPL Member

    @jakedatc

    Locale: Bristol,RI

    Finally got to make my summer quilt. M90 with 2.5 apex inside. ended up being 13.2oz with a drawstring and velcro footbox. (i'll edit this with the dimensions i forgot to check the final length) I think 50 at the top and half tapered to 40 bottom.

    Thanks to Chris Muthig for his tutorial. it was really helpful for working with Apex.

    Q1
    q2
    q3

    #1884409
    Sean Rhoades
    Member

    @kingpin

    Locale: WV

    Quilt looks great, wish I had heard of the newspaper thing before I made mine. I had Apex going over my presser foot every 8in or so, not fun.

    #1884416
    Jake D
    BPL Member

    @jakedatc

    Locale: Bristol,RI

    Yep, that worked really well. did have to keep track of it so it didn't bend up like a wave but i just pulled the next pin or cut across the paper to flatten it back out.

    might be testing it in the Whites (nh) this weekend.

    #1884439
    Chris M
    BPL Member

    @kringle

    Locale: California

    The quilt looks great. The M90 is going to feel really nice. And I'm glad the write up was helpful.

    The newspaper definitely made the whole process significantly easier for me. My first experience was just like Sean's. Some people have also had good experiences just placing the apex facing down. My feeders seem really sharp though, so it wasn't an option for me.

    Hope the quilt works well for you this weekend.

    #1884471
    Dion Dixon
    Member

    @rangymouse

    Locale: Blue Ridge Mtns.

    Great job, Jake!

    Did you use a drawcord at the footbox? Or is that a zipper?

    Whatever it is, looks like a keeper.

    #1884519
    Jake D
    BPL Member

    @jakedatc

    Locale: Bristol,RI

    drawcord and velcro.

    #1885256
    Jeremy Blackston
    Member

    @jmblackston

    So what is this newspaper method you speak of? Looking to do some sewing in my near future and could use all the advantages I can get! Thanks.

    #1885262
    Jake D
    BPL Member

    @jakedatc

    Locale: Bristol,RI

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v115/Socjake/0604022113.jpg

    bigger version of the photo in the first post.


    newspaper
    =============== Apex


    M90


    M90

    so you have smooth surfaces on both sides so it goes through the sewing machine without snagging. the apex likes to get caught on everything so this avoids that. Once you have sewn around you just pull the paper apart like a checkbook.. then you flip it right side out so the apex is in between. then you have to do a rolled or hemmed seam at the head and foot.. no paper needed.

    #1885264
    Jeremy Blackston
    Member

    @jmblackston

    Thanks for that!

    #1885322
    Jim Colten
    BPL Member

    @jcolten

    Locale: MN

    bigger version of the photo in the first post.


    newspaper
    =============== Apex


    M90


    M90

    +1 that method!

    #1885338
    Ryan W
    Member

    @mwilks

    Nice work

    I just ordered some 4oz APEX for a similiar project.

    Quick question – Is searing the edge of the M90 necessary before sewing? I don't have a good way of doing this and I'd like to avoid it.

    I was planning on using the same method of outlined above so the raw edge of the fabric will be inside the quilt, but unfinished – no french seam or anything. Is there a danger that the edge will unravel enough that the stiching will be affected?

    Thanks

    #1885343
    Jake D
    BPL Member

    @jakedatc

    Locale: Bristol,RI

    I didn't do anything to it. you're seem should be in 1/2" or whatever so it's plenty inside the fray line. i also didn't go full width so i cut off the initial frayed side bit from right off the roll.

    #1885346
    Jerry Adams
    BPL Member

    @retiredjerry

    Locale: Oregon and Washington

    I always do 2 rows of stitching. The fraying will stop at the first row of stitches and then the 2nd row will be strongest.

    #1943960
    Zack h
    BPL Member

    @want2belite

    Sorry to drag up an old thread, but I this one really matched what i was trying to achieve so i figured better to not create a whole new one.

    Chris' tutorial uses a 5oz apex, and you used 2.5…exactly what i was looking to achieve.

    Can you identify any major modifications to his tutorial that it required?

    #1943975
    Jerry Adams
    BPL Member

    @retiredjerry

    Locale: Oregon and Washington

    My sleeping bag has 2.5 oz on the bottom half, and 2 layers of 2.5 oz on the top half.

    I don't think it makes any difference.

    If you were trying to do a differential cut, which I didn't bother and don't think it makes any difference, but, the loft of 2.5 oz is 0.7 inch, 5 oz is 1.4 inch. the extra circumference would be 2 * pi * r = 4 inches for 0.7 inches, so for 2.5 oz the outer shell would be 4 inches wider, for 5 oz would be 8 inches wider.

    #1943986
    Zack h
    BPL Member

    @want2belite

    So you're essentially saying if you substitute a lower loft material without modifying the existing shell material you'd (obviously) have extra shell material resulting in a wider (and 'looser') quilt?

    #1943998
    Jerry Adams
    BPL Member

    @retiredjerry

    Locale: Oregon and Washington

    I didn't do a differential cut so the fabric inside wrinkles to use up that 4 or 8 inches.

    On second thought, since it's a quilt it's only on the top half, so it's half a circle, so the differential cut would be 2 inches for 2.5 oz and 4 inches for 5 oz.

    #1952427
    Matthew Helmuth
    BPL Member

    @matthewhelmuth

    Locale: Cascade Siskiyou National Monument

    Have any of you heard or experienced how 5.0 Apex does for temps? I'm thinking it'd be nice to do something comfortable down to around 30. Should I go with just a layer of 5 oz or should I do a 5 with a 2.5 on top?

    Also, what is this "differential cut" of which you speak?

    Thanks,
    Matthew

    #1977180
    Tanner M
    Member

    @tan68

    for a differential cut, the layer of material that will form the top of the quilt is cut wider. the extra width is needed for this top piece of material to curve over the insulation without binding it.

    the insulation curves over you. the inner surface of the quilt does, too. say it takes 32" for the inner surface of the quilt to curve over you. add the 1" thick (or however much) thick insulation and the outer layer of the quilt has more to wrap around (you plus the insulation) so it needs to be a little wider or the insulation might be compressed or bound up a bit.

    it's like putting trousers and belt on, then magically and instantaneously adding adding long underwear, then finding out you need to let the belt out a notch.

    the formula above helps you figure out how much to add. the figures given as recommendations are close enough for a 'typical' quilt width, if you don't want to fool with the math.

Viewing 19 posts - 1 through 19 (of 19 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
Forum Posting

A Membership is required to post in the forums. Login or become a member to post in the member forums!

Loading...