MYOG synthetic quilt w/ pictures.

Quilt looks great, wish I had heard of the newspaper thing before I made mine. I had Apex going over my presser foot every 8in or so, not fun.

Yep, that worked really well. did have to keep track of it so it didn't bend up like a wave but i just pulled the next pin or cut across the paper to flatten it back out.

might be testing it in the Whites (nh) this weekend.

The quilt looks great. The M90 is going to feel really nice. And I'm glad the write up was helpful.

The newspaper definitely made the whole process significantly easier for me. My first experience was just like Sean's. Some people have also had good experiences just placing the apex facing down. My feeders seem really sharp though, so it wasn't an option for me.

Hope the quilt works well for you this weekend.

Great job, Jake!

Did you use a drawcord at the footbox? Or is that a zipper?

Whatever it is, looks like a keeper.

drawcord and velcro.

So what is this newspaper method you speak of? Looking to do some sewing in my near future and could use all the advantages I can get! Thanks.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v115/Socjake/0604022113.jpg

bigger version of the photo in the first post.

so you have smooth surfaces on both sides so it goes through the sewing machine without snagging. the apex likes to get caught on everything so this avoids that. Once you have sewn around you just pull the paper apart like a checkbook.. then you flip it right side out so the apex is in between. then you have to do a rolled or hemmed seam at the head and foot.. no paper needed.

Thanks for that!

bigger version of the photo in the first post.

+1 that method!

Nice work

I just ordered some 4oz APEX for a similiar project.

Quick question – Is searing the edge of the M90 necessary before sewing? I don't have a good way of doing this and I'd like to avoid it.

I was planning on using the same method of outlined above so the raw edge of the fabric will be inside the quilt, but unfinished – no french seam or anything. Is there a danger that the edge will unravel enough that the stiching will be affected?

Thanks

I didn't do anything to it. you're seem should be in 1/2" or whatever so it's plenty inside the fray line. i also didn't go full width so i cut off the initial frayed side bit from right off the roll.

I always do 2 rows of stitching. The fraying will stop at the first row of stitches and then the 2nd row will be strongest.

Sorry to drag up an old thread, but I this one really matched what i was trying to achieve so i figured better to not create a whole new one.

Chris' tutorial uses a 5oz apex, and you used 2.5…exactly what i was looking to achieve.

Can you identify any major modifications to his tutorial that it required?

My sleeping bag has 2.5 oz on the bottom half, and 2 layers of 2.5 oz on the top half.

I don't think it makes any difference.

If you were trying to do a differential cut, which I didn't bother and don't think it makes any difference, but, the loft of 2.5 oz is 0.7 inch, 5 oz is 1.4 inch. the extra circumference would be 2 * pi * r = 4 inches for 0.7 inches, so for 2.5 oz the outer shell would be 4 inches wider, for 5 oz would be 8 inches wider.

So you're essentially saying if you substitute a lower loft material without modifying the existing shell material you'd (obviously) have extra shell material resulting in a wider (and 'looser') quilt?

I didn't do a differential cut so the fabric inside wrinkles to use up that 4 or 8 inches.

On second thought, since it's a quilt it's only on the top half, so it's half a circle, so the differential cut would be 2 inches for 2.5 oz and 4 inches for 5 oz.

Have any of you heard or experienced how 5.0 Apex does for temps? I'm thinking it'd be nice to do something comfortable down to around 30. Should I go with just a layer of 5 oz or should I do a 5 with a 2.5 on top?

Also, what is this "differential cut" of which you speak?

Thanks,
Matthew

for a differential cut, the layer of material that will form the top of the quilt is cut wider. the extra width is needed for this top piece of material to curve over the insulation without binding it.

the insulation curves over you. the inner surface of the quilt does, too. say it takes 32" for the inner surface of the quilt to curve over you. add the 1" thick (or however much) thick insulation and the outer layer of the quilt has more to wrap around (you plus the insulation) so it needs to be a little wider or the insulation might be compressed or bound up a bit.

it's like putting trousers and belt on, then magically and instantaneously adding adding long underwear, then finding out you need to let the belt out a notch.

the formula above helps you figure out how much to add. the figures given as recommendations are close enough for a 'typical' quilt width, if you don't want to fool with the math.