PJ – Question regarding the Princeton TEc Apex

The Apex Pro has the same lamp as the Apex, but instead of 4xAA batteries (alkaline, Lithium or rechargeable) it’s powered by 2xCR123 Lithium batteries. Weight is claimed to be 6.1 oz with batteries (6.7 oz is another claimed weight), “two ounces lighter” than the Apex including (probably alkaline) batteries (6.0 oz; top strap: 0.4 oz; 4xAA Lithium batteries: 2.1 oz). Two CR123 batteries weigh 1.1 oz, so the Apex Pro weight without batteries is 5.0 oz, a difference of 1.4 oz (but their quoted weight probably doesn’t include the 0.4 oz top strap, since they didn’t include that in the posted weight of the Apex). But take a look at the burn times for the Apex Pro: 1.5 hours on 3W high. (Apex’s regulated burn times with Lithium batteries, for comparison: 3W high: 4.5h; 3W low: 12h; 4 LED high: 14h; 4 LED low: 50h.)

When I need this beefy light it’s for more than 1.5 hours and I probably don’t want to stop to change batteries that often. The break-even time on 3W high is about seven hours (or less); after that, the batteries the Apex Pro consumes will more than make up the weight difference. I bought the Apex instead of the Apex Pro. When I just need a light for night hiking, I take the Princeton Tec EOS; it is bright enough and much lighter.

Thanks for that post. I'm was going to get the Apex pro for SAR work when the REI divedends roll in, but I hadn't considered the battery life issue.

The CR123s are found in many high-end (cost) lights, even weapon mounted lights, but for backcountry use I limit my normal-use gear to a single battery source, AAA. I want any device I carry to be able to use batteries from any other device. The only exception are my backup photon micro lights.

For me the question would be intended use and weight.

The Apex weighs in at a whopping 9.5oz with alk. batts & w/o the top strap. Some might consider this to be significantly more than the Apex Pro.

The Apex Pro compares a little more favorably (i.e., the reg. burn times are a closer) with the Apex *IF* alk. batts are used in the Apex – this applies both to weight and regulated burn times.

The comparisons become less if more expensive Li AA batts are used. Weights are a bit closer and the Apex Pro can't match the Apex in regulated burn times when Li AA batts are used.

Now, as far as expense. CR123A batts can be found for $1 or less per batt. The cheapest I've found Li AA batts is ~$l.96 each. Of course, alk. AA batts are far cheaper.

I rarely need to run the Apex on 3W HI output, so i'm not changing batts on the fly. Either suffices for a long stretch of nighttime hiking. For multi-day hikes, the 4xAA Apex has much longer non-regulated burn times than the Apex Pro's two measly CR123A batts.

If you were going to get only one of these headlamps, I'd certainly go with the regular Apex and skip the Apex Pro. IMO, it adds little value, except in the weight department. The Apex can also be had for $20 or so cheaper than the "pro" version.

I would have preferred to to see one of the following, either a 2x2xCR123A (or 4xCR123A) "PRO" version, or an Apex Extreme with an 8xAA power source similar to PTec's already existing Yukon Extreme and CORONA EXTREME (biking application, but has a headband application also).

I would much prefer NOT having to make these types of decisions when buying a headlamp. What do i mean?

I twice suggested to PTec a couple of yrs ago that they create a totally modular system for some of their headlamps such that they used a regulator circuit that could handle anywhere from 4.5v to 12VDC. You could buy different "heads", e.g. Corona, Yukon, Yukon HL, now Apex also and different power sources from them e.g., 4C, 8AA, 4AA, 3AA – both remote belt/pocket mounted and headband mounted. The user would decide what their use criteria would be (weight vs. burn time, Xenon vs. Luxeon LED, spot vs. flood, etc.) and purchase the modular components they needed to satisfy that criteria. In the long run most people find it easier to "collect" pieces at lower prices than to shell out larger amounts to get an entire item – plus, in my case, i'm a collector, and seem to shell out more in the long run "collecting".

PT musn't have thought much of my bad idea since they haven't brought out a modular system. Instead, i've been building my own at home – though the packaging is rather poor.

>I twice suggested to PTec[…]both remote belt/pocket mounted and headband mounted.

Yes, I'd like a belt/pocket-mounted option for the battery pack. All it would take is an extension cord that could be inserted between the battery pack and the existing wire plug. (Heck, just being able to put the battery pack inside my helmet would be sufficient.) The environment where I would use this lamp is where batteries need to be kept warm.

Gear head alert: Petzl Ecrin Roc helmet, 16.1 oz; Petzl Bouchons (vent blocks), 0.6 oz; Petzl Vizion visor, 2.2 oz; Princeton Tec Apex headlamp, top strap and Lithium batteries, 8.5 oz; Princeton Tec Pilot light (red LED), 0.6 oz.; stick-on reflective squares: 0.2 oz.

>Should I even compare the Apex to say, the Myo XP

The points that eliminated the Petzl Myo XP from my consideration are that it is not waterproof, it’s non-regulated and Petzl specifically warns against using Lithium batteries. (Lithium batteries are lighter and have better cold performance than alkaline.) Another competitor is the new Black Diamond Icon, but it is not waterproof (IPX4 v. Apex’s IPX7). It’s unclear whether the BD Icon is well regulated (see thread comparing BD Icon to PT Apex).

Douglas, Nice setup. As you suggested, cutting the power cable is really easy as you might well imagine. For me, this is the simplest way of kludging something togther to give me the option of various power sources. I do this with many of my headlamps. For the 4.5v headlamps, a MN1203 flat-pak becomes a possibility also. I've made a couple of extension cords just for the express purpose of "remoting" the battery pack and reducing the weight on my head.

I use phone plugs for 6v headlamps and phono plugs for 4.5v headlamps, so that i don't accidentally connect a 6v supply to a 4.5v headlamp and possibly damage the headlamp's circuitry.

Currently, i'm trying to find some good CR123A battery boxes for making a 2x2xCR123A (still 6VDC) supply.

Not being Bill Fornshell, my packaging leaves something to be desired though. The only good packaging job i did was a trivial one – used the 4C belt-mounted battery pack off of a failed PTec Switchback and wired it in very nicely into the battery compartment of a Matrix 2 headlamp and sealed the hole in the battery compartment where the cable was routed through. Unfortunately, later on i got around to repairing the Switchback's failed electronics & now use kludgy battery packs with it.

As much as i like the smaller size and lighter weight of the MyoXP, i'd go with the Apex. It's possible that on the lowest light output setting that the Myo XP will "burn" for a longer period of time than the Apex. The Apex just plain puts out more light. This is important when you need it. I also really appreciate the Apex's two button interface. Really easy to use without having to cycle through lighting modes and possibly OFF mode in order to get back to a higher output mode. IMO, go with the Apex over the MyoXP. However, if you choose the MyoXP, you certainly have NOT made a bad decision; it too is a very fine headlamp. I have a BD Icon, but haven't played with it much yet, so i hesitate to comment on it.