Mar 26, 2012 at 6:53 pm #1287870
I was just wondering from those who have blazed the trail before…. My question is this- Using no-nanoseeum mesh for baffle material, does this material, like so many other things in life, come in different strengths for a given weight? Can i source some form of super mesh for my BCB? Do i just double up some to give desired strength?(double the weight). My shell material is going to be Momentum 90MR, and Momentum 90T for shell and liner respectively. I plan on using Gutermann poly thread(have read good reviews). Is there somewhere (web or not) that i can peruse different quilt, blanket patterns? If not for free, then who sells them? Anything else I am missing? Would appreciate any info (Tim)??? Thanks again, westcoasthikerMar 26, 2012 at 7:57 pm #1859761
I use the same .9oz no-see-um you could at DIY gear supply. For the short amount of baffles in our quilts I like its lower stretch over .7oz stuff. Nothing wrong with done cuben baffles either.
-TimMar 26, 2012 at 8:41 pm #1859781
Thanks Tim! I guess there is no problems with durability? Obviously i would not want to add a second layer of mesh? I mean i could but w/weight penalty. Is the cuben a good idea? Do i not want the baffles to be able to breath, and equalize the volume of the down throughout the blanket/quilt? Do i need to worry about any other aspects of this project? I know, stupid questions, but keep in mind that we all start somewhere! Anywho, thanks again! -westcoasthikerMar 27, 2012 at 5:46 am #1859877
i used .33 cuben baffles for a long time and they work fine. Breathability in a quilt is a vertical game, these only restrict airflow between chambers not from body to air so condensation is a non issue. As far as the baffling goes just use enough seam allowance (1/8-1/4") so there is some fabric on the other side of the stitching. That will reduce the likelihood of baffle damage over sewing them on right at the edge which i have seen only a few times but should be avoided. Also i make my baffles 1/2" shorter when finished than my desired loft for good down control. On a tube quilt you should make the tubes 5-6.5" wide by desired loft -(.25"-.5")
-TimMar 27, 2012 at 6:54 pm #1860251
Tim, i really appreciate your candor! The idea of cuben(strength) really appeals to me. Now you have got me wondering what the heck a "tube" quilt is? Do you use a "baffle" to finish your edges?(piece of material, same depth of the baffles on the edge, in order to sew the top(shell) and bottom(liner) together)? What needle(size) and thread(thickness) would you recommend? I might have a chance to get a free serger(no idea on brand) in a few weeks….should i or would i want to wait to start my BCB using this type of machine…?(like i said, very new to the DIY thing….) anywho, thanks again! cheers, westcoasthikerMar 27, 2012 at 7:49 pm #1860282
My liners and shells are exactly the same cut from the same pattern so no side baffle here.
Tube quilt; almost every down quilt or sleeping bag uses either north south or east west tubes to control down shifting mine have KARO boxes instead of tubes which result in much less baffle material. More complicated to plan and sew though.
I use a size 65 or 70 (9 or 10) needle with tex 27 maxi-lock thread. A serger is great for clothing but not really what you want for a down quilt.
Hope that helps.
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