I thought I would share my recent experiences on a MYOG project that entailed using a Karo baffling system with Thru-Hiker's M50 900FP down quilt kit. But first of all, I need to give a shout out to Tim Marshall @ Enlightened who was kind enough to provide some important tips & advice.
OK, real quick, the basic calculus between Karo vs regular baffle systems (longitudinal or lateral) is (a) do you want to handle/sew material? or (b) do you want to handle/weigh down?
I consider myself an advanced beginner and/or beginning intermediate sewer: I've sewn multiple syn quilts, packs & tarps, and once my wife figured out what I was doing, she got me to sew some pillow covers, zippers, etc – LOL. I can sew pretty straight stitches on my late grandmother's 1949 Singer 15-91 (wheedled from my mom), and I know how to sew all the basic seams like flat-felled, french, etc. So, given the various horror stories I've heard about handling, weighing and packaging down for individual baffles, I was definitely in favor of the Karo system.
Well, just let me say first hand, if you prefer sewing, you're going to get more than your match using Karo baffles. First of all, rather than just mark out simple linear baffles at 5", you need to map out an entire grid of Karo boxes over the entire quilt. In my case, I used a 12/6 system – that is, 12" boxes with 6" baffles on each side. (I ended up using Thru-Hiker's packaging box as a guide – it's 12" square, so it was easy to measure & mark out 6" hash points on the white box.)
I'm 6'1" and my quilt measures 80"(l)x54"(h)x42"(f), so as it turns out, I had 46 6" baffle sections to sew. That means 46 starts & finishes with thread clipping, back tacking, etc. – about 1/2 way through the 1st side, I realized I had committed to a very big job. To make things even more interesting, with heavier fabric, the handling would be a bear, but with M50, I was paranoid every time I moved it around – especially for the vertical baffles. Also, while the M50 rip stop shell can handle back tacking, the taffeta liner showed small pin holes @ the reverse points. (I used Schmetz Microtex 70/10 needles with Gutermann Sew-All.) Ah, down leaks – I would only be saved if the nanoseeum caught the nodules. (PS – no down leaks – the nanoseeum works.)
Ok, so once I got both sides sewn together (I was shooting for 2" baffles, so I cut 2.5" inch strips with 1/4" seams on each side), I sewed 3 sides (top & sides) of the quilt together with a simple seam, then came back to roll the hem/edges. Normally, I would do this in one step, but I wanted a little extra strength and more down proofing, so I took two passes. As it turns out, I'm glad I did, because even though I've become used to dealing with slippery fabric, it was still hard to roll the hem without bunching the fabric. I messed around a little with the footer pressure, etc till I got it working pretty well, but the project was beginning to look more & more amateur.




