Mar 1, 2012 at 3:19 pm #1286461
I started putting together a down quilt and for some reason i sew baffles 8" apart. I don't know what i was thinking…I see most of the quilts have baffles spaced from 5-7".
Is this going to be a problem? I only did one side so far so i can still change the design…
The baffle height is 2.5".
Thanks!Mar 1, 2012 at 3:45 pm #1847506
That's pretty far apart for proper down control IMO. That probably comes out to 10-11 baffles total? You can overcome it by over-stuffing if you are too far along.
RyanMar 1, 2012 at 4:01 pm #1847518
Franco DarioliBPL Member
There was a discussion recently here about that and most agreed that 7" was spaced too far, 5" being about ideal.
So , yes I would think that 8" is too far.
FrancoMar 1, 2012 at 4:10 pm #1847522
Bugger. Undoing the seams for the baffles is probably not a good idea, right? It would compromise the "down-proofness".Mar 1, 2012 at 4:12 pm #1847523
What fabric are you using?
RyanMar 1, 2012 at 4:14 pm #1847525
Momentum M90 (or M50, not 100%sure)Mar 1, 2012 at 4:24 pm #1847533
Eugene SmithBPL Member
@eugeneiusLocale: Nuevo Mexico
Several Jacks R Better quilt owners have had problems with cold spots and down migration within the baffles, it seemed like JRB's preference in using wide baffles in their quilts partially contributed to the problem.
Wide is easier to fabricate and involves less sewing, but not ideal.Mar 1, 2012 at 4:42 pm #1847545
If you rip it out it will tend to compromise the fabric
Maybe make 4 inch baffles?Mar 1, 2012 at 4:44 pm #1847546
I could do 4"! Anyone see any problems with that?
Thank you all!Mar 1, 2012 at 4:48 pm #1847547
The only negative is you'll have a tiny bit extra baffle material because you'll have an extra few baffles in your quilt, but that is insignificantMar 1, 2012 at 4:48 pm #1847548
Agree with Jerry, wouldn't rip the seams out especially if using M50. 4" spacing will work.
RyanMar 1, 2012 at 4:49 pm #1847550
One other thing, what I like about MYOG is you encounter problems, like you made 8 inch baffles, but then find a solution…Mar 1, 2012 at 7:52 pm #1847635
How much loft are you going for? More loft is ok in big baffles, less loft needs smaller baffle spacing. If going for over 3" loft you should be ok, yeah 8" is too big but adding extra down can mitigate that. Make it a winter quilt or if you go 4" reduce the baffle height and do summer. Probably have a hard time getting away with it as a 3 season.
-TimMar 1, 2012 at 8:21 pm #1847653
So should the baffle width be 2.5 X loft? or something like thatMar 1, 2012 at 10:12 pm #1847695
The loft has to be 2.5". Tim, if you think 4" is too narrow, i'll redo the upper layer and make it 5".
Thanks you!Mar 2, 2012 at 6:01 am #1847748
you can do 2.5" in 4", 5.5-6 would be more like what i would plan but in your situation 4 is the way to go. It isn't ideal so my suggestion would allow for two ideal solutions, but it will work fine with 4"
-TimMar 2, 2012 at 6:06 am #1847750
baffle spacing isn't the only factor in down control. baffle height also plays a big part. if you want better control reducing either height or width can increase the down control. 2.5" baffles for 2.5" loft isn't my recommendation for good control but then using a 4" width will make up for that so you can adjust those sizes around to find the balance between control and over fill.
-TimMar 2, 2012 at 7:08 am #1847769
Great info, thank you Tim. Could you tell us what baffle hight do you think would then be ideal for 2.5" loft with 5.5-6" baffle width? I just assumed it would be 2.5"…
This is great, much appreciated!Mar 2, 2012 at 7:31 am #1847779
Ivo VanmontfortBPL Member
reduce the baffle height by the second baffle seam
double the baffles
then it looks at my quilt ,
(with a 1 inch baffle height, I measured 45 mm (about 1,75 inch)
(filled with 400 gr down/that is a lot overfill!)
The baffle wide was 4 inch
With a differential cut you will get less quickly problems, i thinkMar 2, 2012 at 8:04 am #1847799
My baffles are 1/2" shorter than desired loft before overstuff. So if the quilt is 2.5" loft I use 2" baffles, but after 10% overstuff the loft is 2.75" or 30% is 3.25" loft still with 2" baffles. This is for KARO baffles which need to be shorter than tubes to give as much control. For tubes .25-.5" shorter than final loft in baffles 5-6" wide should be about perfect. Of course it is all a little subjective.
-TimMar 2, 2012 at 8:22 am #1847808
Eric LundquistBPL Member
@cobbermanLocale: Northern Colorado
I found that if I planned for 2.5" loft and cut my baffles to that size the seam allowances effectively reduce the height by a 1/2". After overstuff it's back at the intended 2.5"Mar 20, 2012 at 11:22 am #1856624
At the end i ordered new shell material, Momentum 50 this time, which was cool, and redid the baffles to 5.5" distance and ~2.25" height. With 13oz. of down, draft stopper and gorget piece it comes down to 18.5oz.
I'm very happy with it, it feels perfect to me, thank you all for your advice!Mar 20, 2012 at 11:37 am #1856630
Philip DelvoieBPL Member
@philipdLocale: Ontario, Canada
Looks great Branko. Very nice.Mar 20, 2012 at 11:54 am #1856644
That looks very niceApr 15, 2012 at 11:26 am #1867474
Aaron SorensenBPL Member
@awsorensenLocale: South of Forester Pass
Love the draft stoppers…
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