help with attempt at DIY butane stove

Thanks Jim…

This is all definitely out of my league. I will do my best to figure out what thread I’ve got here and let you know.

Out of your league? Just think how far it is out of mine. lol.

Let me know when you’ve got it sorted out.

HJ
Adventures in Stoving

For example,in Japan.
i know some of friend's MYOG gas stoves.

Top class mini size gas stoves.

http://obakanahibi.blog31.fc2.com/blog-category-8.html#no410

http://blog-imgs-30.fc2.com/p/c/l/pclv9161/SSburner.jpg

Hi Nick

M4 x 0.75 ??? That is one I have never seen before, and I have seen a few.
What brand – if any?

(I can get them made custom, but that's about all. Or I can CNC one or two.)

Cheers

Yukio,

Thank you for the links. I especially like the small one called the bagworm stove. But the last link, the video, it doesn't work. Anyways, very cool and inspiring to me. :)

My handle, dutro76 "YouTube"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEd6I41N7OE

i think Ultimate of the gas stove, it is "NOIN"
I create the turbulence and the wire is wound around the pipe bent in the form of a question mark.
Jet pipe at the forefront of 0.2mm, maximum 0.3mm.
It's easy to make.
First, the fire seared the entire brass gas pipe 2mm, softened.
Then press the tip. Carefully open hole 0.2mm. Wrap the wire after bending.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMA1xzGlWI4

i expect to you enjoy with your ultrlight MYOG stoves.

"M4 x 0.75 ??? That is one I have never seen before, and I have seen a few.
What brand – if any?"

Roger,

Not sure if you are talking about the jet or the die. The die is probably a Snap-on Blue Point brand, or maybe something else. I bought it in the early 70's and most my tools were Snap-on, although some metric stuff they did not carry at the time.

I just brought it up because I learned a long time ago to "Never say never." To me standard size means most common. Just to set the record straight the following are used today:

M4 X 0.5 = fine
M4 X 0.7 = 'standard'
M4 X 0.75 = coarse

I am tinkerer; not a machinist, engineer, or scientist. When I was young I was an auto mechanic. A lot of my customers were wealthy and I sometimes did restoration work on all kinds of weird stuff on the side. One thing I learned early on was that these customers wanted all OEM parts if possible ("new old stock") and if you had to use some other fastener, you better not damage the main part by tapping, drilling, or cutting to make a non-OEM part fit. It can significantly decrease the value of the object. So often when I had to substitute a fastener or other part, I had to make one or have someone make it for me.

I think M4 X 0.75 is an old German DIN standard, made obsolete years ago. But if you buy a large metric tap & die set, that size is often still included today. I have found this size on old German weapons, and surprisingly Japanese model toys and Japanese high end musical instruments. Often the only way you can get them is to purchase them from the manufacturer (if they are still in business). My guess is that their customers become a captured audience for repairs, although I would like to think that the fastener is required based on the design specifications.

Bicycles and Motorcycles sometimes use M4 X 0.5 fasteners. As a matter of fact, you can purchase some right there in Oz :) probolt-australia.com

Tap and dies in this size are much more difficult to find.

Edit: I couldn't get the URL link to work, but it is on the website if you search it from the Home page.

Very nice, I watched many of your videos. I decided to use a screw head to disperse my flame outward in one of my stoves like in the bagworm stove. Lots of good ideas.

"Trust me I'm a machinist" Knowing what it means to work hard machines(A machinist for many years), thats the into for a line of serious BS ;-)

I have piles of taps, when you decide what it is, let me know, I'll send you one. I have allot of odd ball stuff for sewing machines and firearms, so I probably have what you need.

Hi Nick

I learn something new every day. I do know that M4x0.75 is not ISO, but an old DIN standard is very likely. Ah well, it is easier to drill 3.3 mm than 3.25 mm :-)

Fwiiw, I do carry nearly the entire metric coarse (ie normal) range from M2 to M24, and much of the metric fine versions over that range as well. Don't ask …

If you want taps and dies of some strange values (including left-handed!), try http://www.e-taps.com.au and tell the guy there I sent you.

Cheers

Roger thanks for the link, might come in handy.

If you are restoring a $5,000+ model steam locomotive engine you cannot drill out the exisitng holes or re-tap to install non-original size petcocks :) you just might lose a few thousand dollars in value!

But for manufacturing or modifying stoves for personal use, it is just fine.

Josh,

That sounds great, thank you. I actually just ordered the 1BA set, it was pretty cheap. If that's not what I need then it's likely the 4.5x.05mm or 4.5x.75mm that's been discussed here. I aim to figure this out soon, or should I say hope. :)

Well I've measured and guaged the threads in question. What I have come up with is the over the threads measurement is 5.82mm or .231" nearly 15/64, and the threads are 0.75. After searching the net, the closest I've come to this is M6x.75. Now 1BA reads as being .2090"x28tpi and it is definitely larger than 4.5mm. So I'm not sure if I should just round up and call it M6x.75 or what, but I'm no closer to having figured it all out :(

Hi Sean

> over the threads measurement is 5.82mm or .231" nearly 15/64, and the threads are 0.75.
> After searching the net, the closest I've come to this is M6x.75.

Ah, now here we transition from the theoretical to the real world. ALL thread ODs are under-sized. If I pick up a commercial stainless steel M2.5 x 0.5 mm bolt lying on my desk and measure the OD with a micrometer, I get 2.35 mm.

So why do they make threads undersize like this? Well, both commercial and engineering reality.
* If you made the thread 6.00 mm OD it would NOT fit into a hole drilled by a 6.0 mm drill bit. The thread HAS to be undersize to go in the hole. Especuially if the drill bit is slightly worn.
* If you try to make the thread just 0.05 mm undersize so it will fit, then production tolerances are going to foul you up somewhere. The OD has to be reliably under-size.

Yep, the measurements you are quoting are M6 x 0.75.
And that is the ISO Standard Metric Fine spec.

Cheers

Thanks so much for clearing that up for me Roger.

@Hikin Jim

Jim,

I've got my threads figured out for the adapter, if you woulndn't mind checking with your friend about machining some for me. It would be M6x0.75 Male to 1/8 NPT Female approx. 3/4" long. You can email me at hovel138 (at) yahoo (dot) com if you like, I don't think I can PM since I'm not a member yet. Thanks

Hi, Sean,

Let me check with my friend.

HJ
Adventures in Stoving

I've finished another project here recently on my break from classes. This one is my Franken-Coleman lol. Don't worry, no stoves were harmed in this project, only salvaged parts were used except the titanium burner from the fyrestorm. I couldn't find a broken fyrestorm to buy so I purchased it from coleman. I wish I hadn't now considering the cost, but thanks to the burner and a lot of metal removed from the Xpert legs this thing weighs in at just 8 ounces. By using a gas hose and valve with pre-heat tube I can invert my canister like was intended for the real fyrestorm.

Anyways, here it is:

Hey, Sean,

Looking good! Nice! What’s the canister hook up end of things look like?

HJ
Adventures In Stoving

Hey Jim,

Thanks for the support. For the canister connection I used a spare gas tube from our good friend Plus2City. Its the one for TK600, has the preheat tube and all. Oh, and it came with a jet as well (.3 size) that uses 4.5x.5 threads that Roger had talked about.