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Replacing Rounded Carbide Tips on Trekking Poles

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Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
John Donewar BPL Member
PostedNov 2, 2011 at 6:53 am

After my last outing I noticed that the steel tips on my trekking poles had lost their edge. Mine were of the "countersunk" sharp round edge variety. I had just logged 100 miles on a section hike of the AT passing through the Grayson Highlands. We passed through a lot of hard rocky real estate.

I was looking for a way to replace or sharpen these now extremely dull tips and even considered replacing the poles completely. What I found was these replacement parts from Black Diamond that I purchased through Backcountry Edge.

http://www.backcountryedge.com/black_diamond-flex-tip-pair.aspx

I tried following the instructions included with these tips for removal of my old tips from my Outdoor Products flicklock style poles. Differences in the OP tips and BD tips caused me to seek out a different method.

I pinched the metal part of the old tip in my vise and twisted and turned it out of the hard rubber part of the tip. It was then that I noticed that the steel portion of the tip seemed to have been pressed and "crimped" into the bottom of the last section of the aluminum shaft. It was not hard to twist it out. Twisting left 45 degrees and right 45 degrees while pulling back removed the steel tip.

At this point I tried following the removal instructions using a 2 minute boiling water soak to expand and loosen the old hard rubber parts. It may have been a lack of patience on my part but I didn't achieve much success using this method.

I then padded my vise jaws with a terry cloth rag and adjusted the vise so that it "cradled" not squeezed the bottom pole section. I carefully sliced through the thickest portion of the hard rubber piece with a hacksaw blade in a "jab saw" handle holding it parallel to the trekking pole.

A "linoleum knife" was used to finish slitting the hard rubber piece length wise to free it from the bottom pole section. A delicate touch with the saw and knife is required to avoid hand and finger injuries and scratching the bottom pole section.

After all the old parts were removed all that is left is to slide on the new pole tips and tap/pound them into place on a solid piece of floor. I was in my garage so I used the concrete floor of my garage under a thin mat to "press" the new tips into place.

I was quite pleased with the outcome and the relatively small investment of funds.

Disclaimer

As stated above I deviated from the instructions in going my own way in how I removed the old tips.

I am simply telling how I chose to accomplish this task in my particular case.

I am not recommending this method of removal. As I said I am only recounting how I did it.

Be very careful when working with loose parts and sharp tools! Always cut away from yourself. Never cut towards yourself. Children / teenagers should have their parents permission and be supervised by a parent / adult when using any kind of tools.;-)

I've never had much use for my FAK on the trail but I've done my share of damage to myself in my workshop! LOL

Be Safe!

Party On,

Newton

PostedNov 2, 2011 at 2:33 pm

John,

Do you think that a heat gun would have made the rubber sleeve removal easier?

I'm referring to the really hot kind, like 1000 degrees, not just a hair drier. It could greatly soften the hard rubber sleeve.

I'd like to put the OR carbide tips on my OP poles too. Thanks for walking us through your procedure.

Thomas

John Donewar BPL Member
PostedNov 2, 2011 at 2:50 pm

Thomas,

If it doesn't melt them off first the heat gun might get the job done. ;-)

"I'd like to put the OR carbide tips on my OP poles too." ;-?

The tips that I used were BD (Black Diamond). OR ?!?

BTW the BD flex tips as they are called have no other physical connection to the bottom section of the poles other than the "press fit" of the hard rubber part.

The carbide tip doesn't have a metal to metal connection with the bottom pole section the way the original part did. I suppose this is where the term "flex tip" comes from.

"Thanks for walking us through your procedure."

I enjoy walking. You're welcome. ;-)

Party On,

Newton

Hikin’ Jim BPL Member
PostedNov 2, 2011 at 4:50 pm

I found a really easy method: I bought some cheap new poles on SierraTradingPost with a 35% off coupon, pulled out the lower two sections on my old poles, and replaced them with the lower two sections from the new poles (which include new tips). :) Kinda hinky, and certainly not demonstrating any great mechanical ability, but it did the trick. I got to keep my light weight uppers with a camera mount while getting a little bit beefier lowers with new tips.

HJ

John Donewar BPL Member
PostedNov 2, 2011 at 5:12 pm

Jim,

It ain't hinky if you're happy with the outcome and it works for you. ;-)

I purchased 1 pair of short flex tips and 1 pair of baskets and used a 12% coupon.

My total with shipping was $14.68. That is just about 2 bucks more than the cost of one of my poles. Do you remember your final cost?

What kind of poles were you working on and what was the make and model of poles that you used for your "spare parts"?

I'm just curious as to what poles are compatible with others.

Party On,

Newton

Hikin’ Jim BPL Member
PostedNov 2, 2011 at 5:42 pm

Both sets of poles were from Komperdell. The poles I like are Komperdell Guide Lights. The top unscrews to form a camera mount. They're ridiculously expensive (they're only sold solo not in pairs), but I like that camera mount. I wasn't about to pop down another $70 bucks. I bought a pair of other Komperdell poles (name escapes me) for around $30 (including shipping) from Sierra Trading Post. Popped out the cores and chucked out my old cores.

HJ

PostedNov 14, 2011 at 1:59 pm

I simply screwed a double-ended lag/1/4-20 bolt into the top of my pole. Lag into the top of the rubber handle; 1/4-20 into the camera. Planted in firm dirt it can still be a little tipsy but it beats carrying a tripod. The protruding bolt doesn't seem to interfere with my use of the poles. Works best with light cameras.

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