Mountaineering Boot Help

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Thanks for the reply Rog,

Sounds like I'll go with Trango EVO's most likely, and get the Nepals later. Gotta try them on first though!

Thanks again,

Michael

I have a pair of LS Trango evo extreme gtx boots. They have worked very well for everything I have done so far Ice in Alaska, Rainier in the summer, and they are also one of the lightest boots on the market. If I was going to do it over again I would probably get the Scarpa Phantom Ultra boots, they are like the guides but lighter and have Outdry which will keep them from wetting out as fast. To me they look super nice. If you want something a little warmer I would consider skipping the guides and go for the phantom 6000, I am thinking of getting these as a supplement to my Trangos.

Eric

If you can't try them on, don't buy them. Or bring them in and try them and if they don't fit, pay the restocking fee to your local shop.

Unless on continuous snow, you don't want plastic. If you are, you want plastic for any long period of time on non flat terrain and bring duct tape. Weekend warrior style, tenni's work fine in the PNW in summer. Guys even run up Ranier in them in June when crevasses are closed and the weather perfect… Not recommended btw but can be done.

Then again, It can be 70's in most NW alpine(5-6000 feet), but hit 8-9000 feet anywhere and it will be VERY cold sometimes with a temperature inversion even when crystal clear without a cloud in the sky. Generally not, but sometimes. Say going up Baker. Been in Shorts and no shirt on lower Colman glacier on Baker and wearing every stitch of clothing and wishing for far more near the top. Down Jacket, tights, shorts, wind pants, gloves, hat, long sleeve T, 100 power stretch fleece is what I had on.

BC is a different bird all together.

"Sounds like I'll go with Trango EVO's most likely, and get the Nepals later"

I would find out what the temperatures are going to be like before you purchase the Trango Evos. I own a pair for use in Colorado but wouldn't take them out in winter conditions or in fact anything below about 15/20 degrees; nor would they really be suitable for ice climbing as they are too soft for long routes.

I do most of my winter climbing in Trango Extremes, but again still too soft for long ice routes and will be overkill in the summer unless you are doing something like Rainier.

I don't do much ice climbing, but when I do it is the Scarpa Mont Blanc's that come out, but in most cases these are overkill for general mountaineering and rarely see any use.

Like Roger said, you won't find a do it all boot.

two issues: rigidity and warmth

for ice climbing you want a boot that has a rigid sole. problem is that a rigid sole isn’t comfortable for much else. In 2012, Salewa is coming out with a climbing boot the allows you to switch between rigid and flexible sole (like ski boots). see more here: http://www.adventure-journal.com/2011/08/outdoor-retailer-sneak-peek-salewa-for-spring-2012/

for warmth 40 below overboots may be your solution.

of course, fit is always important.