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ID eVENT gaiters – replacing sole strap

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PostedDec 22, 2006 at 2:59 pm

Integral Design Shortie Gaiters as they came:

Gaiters as they came

As modified:

Gaiters with diaper pin in place

I just got my first pair of ID eVENT shortie gaiters, knowing from the reader and BPL staff reviews they did not stay down well over low tops. (One reason I didn't use gaiters was the under sole strap when walking on hard, sharp rock.)

The problem was they apparently would not stay down or totally cover low tops. That could be solved IMO. RJ wrote in a review thread that he sewed his to his low tops and added a velcro system to make them easier to put on and take off.

I bought them because I believed they could be connected to the low tops in a way that would make them removable or addable to the foot wear as desired, and not need to be permanently sewed on — that is important to me because I don't have a number of different low tops and didn't want to permanently sew them onto the uppers of my Montrails.

My theory was I could rig an attachment on the side of the low tops to serve as a connecting point for the grommet in the shortie gaiters.

Thus, I undertook to modify my shoe to add a loop or connector which could attach to the gaiters.

So, here is what I did and it seems to have worked for a test run. But, I need to figure out a more secure connector than a diaper pin between the shoe sides and the gaiters.

Here are the tools:

Tea candle to heat needle to punch holes in Montrail, dental floss for experimental loop, straight and curved needles to sew in loop and poke hole into Montrails, and different size diaper pins for quick experimental connectors. And, BPL lace locks to use lock as replacement for the stopper that comes with the gaiters. (The BPL lock is way easier for me to use, especially with cold hands.)

Gaiters tools

Test Modification:

First, I checked to see if I could easily replace the stopper on the upper leg end of the gaiter with a BPL Lace Lock. That was a piece of cake, cut off the extra bungy string and tied it on.

Gaiters with BPL lock lace

Next, I tried to push a needle through the rubber like side of the Montrail, without heating it. That seemed a secure place to put a loop of floss through for the experiment. If you want to know how sturdy and tough Montrails are, you try pushing a needle through the soft feeling rubber on the sides.

I turned to heating the large curved needle in the tea candle and poking it through. Even with the needle heated it was hard to do and the rubberized upper material tended to close back up. So you need to poke the hole and pull the needle out so it does not "freeze" in the shoe.

Gaiters hearing needle

I had estimated where to poke the holes through so that a loop of bungy string or a diaper pin could be secured to the dental floss loop I was going to create and then hold the gaiter down low to the top of the Montrail low tops.

After pushing the holes through in the chosen locations I threaded dental floss onto the larger straight needle and pushed it through to start the loop.

Gaiters sewing loop

Once the needle was pulled through the problem was getting it back out the other hole. That was difficult so I pushed the smaller needle through the second hole for a guide, then pushed the threaded needle through next to the smaller guide needle.

Gaiters needle and guide needle

Once I had made three loops of dental floss through the holes in the sides of the Montrails I tied them off. The loop was now created.

Gaiters with loop

Then I connected a diaper pin throught the loop in order to attach the gaiters to the shoes (this is just a test method, in the woods I would get a better system going than a diaper pin. Any ideas?)

Gaiters shoe with diaper pin
I attached the gaiters to the Montrails using the diaper pin.

Gaiters with diaper pin and gaiter

It worked, they stayed down on an initial short hike with little snow.

Well, I got this far so now I am interested in any ideas on (1) what is the stronget thread like material to use to make the loops, (2) what is the best connector to use between the loops and the gaiters' grommets? (The issue is keeping the connector strong and low profile so it will not hang up in brush or rub against rock and be bent, come loose or unsnapped, break, etc.)

PostedDec 22, 2006 at 5:29 pm

bd,
That's clever, and much easier than sewing Velcro on by hand.

You might consider a toggle: just a short stick of any durable material small enough to go through the grommet lengthwise (a piece of toothbrush handle carved to fit?) with a hole through it to accept a short loop of thin cord. The loop would go around the anchor you put on the shoe. Push the toggle through the grommet – Secured. Push it out to release.

PostedDec 22, 2006 at 6:20 pm

Vick,

I really admire your work on the cape design for rain gear (referred by Prof. Emeritus pj) and not so Crazy Pete's on tarp configurations. Have you gone any more distance in that vein?

I am thinking about how to use a polycryo groundcloth from Gossamer Gear for a combination ground cloth, fold over rain cover for a bivy or sleeping bag, and a rain cape. What do you think about the polycryo as a rain cape?

Thanks for the pointers and suggestions on the way to perfect the gaiter trick. My tendency is to use a piece of deer skin or moose skin, brain tanned so it doesn't harden for a tie (part native american here, and trying to stay conscious of that)? The toggle would be great if I knew more about gaiters and how they work or function, but this land sailing is new to me. bd

PostedDec 23, 2006 at 3:40 am

Vick, excellent suggestion on the toggles.



bd, try this:

0) "sew" some dental floss or spectra line to your footwear – just as you illustrated (great idea, BTW).

1) just take two small lengths of dowel or twig (for a trail repair, if necessary), to serve as toggles, which has a small enough diameter to fit through the strap grommets on the gaiters;

2) bore/drill a very small diameter hole in the center of it's length; [Note: boring is the only trail repair option – do ULers carry something that will bore a hole in a twig thin enough to fit through the gaiter grommet??? perhaps the safety pin idea of yours will come into play in the event a field repair becomes necessary.]

3) take a 2nd pc. of spectra cord and pass it through the 1st, "sewn" on pc. of spectra. [Note: hopefully this very easily replaced 2nd pc of spectra will experience "wear" and not the slightly more difficult 1st pc of spectra.]

4) thread both ends of the 2nd pc. of spectra through the hole in the toggle and tie off both ends together is a monster of a doubled double figure-8 knot or some knot of choice that will produce a large knot incapable of sliding back through the hole in the dowel. [Note: of course, this make the small toggles a semi-permanent hitch-hiker on one's footwear. In other words, they're there even when gaiters aren't being used, unless one cuts the spectra line to remove the toggles – easy enough to do, as well as to reattach.]

5) slide the toggle length-wise through the gaiter grommets.

Great idea, Bill. I'm going to try this one very soon, hopefully, before i get out in the heavy rain for a long dayhike (and possibly a short overnight) today.

PostedDec 23, 2006 at 7:18 am

Drilling on the trail: Use a piece of heated wire or needle as bd did. Burns right through and causes less damage than conventional drilling.

To secure line to toggle, this is more secure than the monster figure-8: Double line and tie end in simple figure 8. Push knot through hole in toggle, pull it around both ends of toggle to form a lark's head knot. It won't pull back through. Ever.

To attach the toggle with loop to the sewn-on loop on the shoe, use a lark's head knot – which makes it removable. Picture the toggle with loop. Pull the loop on the toggle through the loop on the shoe. Slip the toggle through its own loop. Pull tight.

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